The Cruising Guide to Newfoundland - Updates

Updates from 2001

	Allen's Cove Marina, in the Bay of Islands
	Fortune Harbour

From the Port aux Basques Harbour Authority - corrections to the 1999 edition: When approaching Port aux Basques call the Port aux Basques Traffic Control on VHF channel 11. They ask that you call them when 5 miles out, 2 miles out and when you are secured in Port aux Basques. In the Harbour Authority building, across the street from the southern most of the public wharves, are showers, laundry facilities and a public phone. The hose from the Harbour Authority building for fresh water is a heavy-duty garden hose.

The Harbour Authority harbor manager is Richard Hardy and can be contacted at 709-695-7975

Other attractions in the area are the historic Rose Blanch Lighthouse, the Cape Ray Dorset site and the beautiful Codroy Valley.

From Roger Williams onboard Orion

Rose Blanche - There are two restaurants in town, one in the central cove harbor and one at the B&B near the stone lighthouse. There is only one store now, run by a returnee who got tiered of the bright city lights. She is a delight and says things are going "very well".

Little Garia Bay - I found three houses here. When I crossed the bar on a relatively low tide I had 10-12 feet showing on the sounder. The water was very clear. There are two possible anchorages, both on the east side. The first one is just past the bar. You can swing in towards a beach on the inland side of the bar before you reach the red house. I found 15 feet of water with ample swinging room and what looked like a gravel bottom. The second cove is just past the point with the red house. There is a strong running stream coming into this cove, this in a dry year. Again, looks like a sandy gravel bottom.

When leaving to the east and outside Wreck Island, don't steer east of 170º mag. The Wreck Island Sunkers seem farther west than they do when entering. Give The Slammer and Pool Island a 50 yard miss to port; steer about 132º mag. for a course between Wreck Island and Black Rock, once beyond Black Rock you are clear.

Burgeo - Laundromat and showers are available at the Sandbank Park, 2-3 km out of town. Water, brownish but fine, is available from a 1 ½ inch hose on the inside of the "L" at the fish wharf. The ketch Phoenix, mentioned in the Francois entry, is in a cradle in Burgeo where it has been since 2000.

Here's a shot at writing directions in from the west: "From north of West Flat Island (minding the ledges that come off the north side of the island, about 100-200 yards) steer approximately 095º mag. leaving Fox Point relatively close to port. Just beyond Fox Point you will find small green and red buoys. Keep your line and you should be in the thoroughfare. Don't be confused by a larger green buoy well to starboard, just before Eclipse Island. It marks a rock on another entrance channel. The main channel passes south of Eclipse Island, not much deviation from the present course until you pass the island. From the red buoy near the government wharf steer approximately 080º mag., and head for buoy OG3, off Fish Island Rock. Then enter Short Reach as described in the guide.

Red Island Harbour - When entering the northernmost cove, there is a point extending out from the western shore so one needs to stay near the eastern shore as indicated by the dotted line on the sketch. At a low-ish tide 7 ½ feet was carried across the bar and 15 feet was had inside, but not much swinging room. Tying off to both shores could be easily done. Using the western passage takes commitment, for there is little space to turn around.

New Harbour/Parsons Harbour - No structures standing, using the wharf is possible, but probably not recommended.

Rencontre West - Roland Courtney and his father Larry directed me to moor with the one-inch pennant on a white ball. A boat in Francois reported getting an anchor fouled in Rencontre which was the second report I head of that.

Pushthrough - The government wharf is still there, but sagging a bit on its seaward end. The lighthouse on the point looks to have a summer resident as there were cod drying on the laundry line.

The Bay of Great Jervis Harbour (just north of Pushthrough) - This bay is circular in feeling. Extensive aquaculture equipment is located in the southwestern portion of the bay; one needs to stay slightly closer to Great Jervis Island on entering from the south. Be aware of The Brothers, a sunker at least 200 yards off the NW corner of Great Jervis Island.

The northern part of the Bay is picturesque. I passed inside of Pearl Island at low tide and held 30 feet until the upper end where it rose to 15 feet. There is an indentation on the north side of the southeastern end of Pearl Island that could be a bug-free anchorage. To the northwest of Pearl Island is a small bay that shows a flat bottom of 35 feet with ample swinging room and is quiet lovely.

Man of War Cove is just east of Shallop Cove and north of Great Jervis Island. One can get right into the cove and anchor in 10 feet of what looks like sandy gravel bottom. This cove is open to the southeast, but otherwise pretty well protected.

From what I could see, Farley Mowat's description of the harbor (which I presume to be Shallop Cove) is fairly accurate. I didn't go in, but rocks were visible all over.

Little Passage - aquaculture report:
Cold Harbour, open, muddy rocky bottom and tight for swinging at 30 foot depth.
Deer Cove - some aquaculture, mussels
Blackfish Cove - extensive aquaculture, fish pens
Maria Cove - open
Stickland Cove - aquaculture, mussels
Seal Nest Cove - aquaculture, fish pens and mussels, still room on north side noting the rock shown on the chart
Grip Cove - open, even though marked for aquaculture on the chart
Seal Cove - open
The Matchums - fish pens close the passage between the north island and the north shore
Robin Hood Cove - open
L'Anse a Flamme Cove - limited aquaculture

Grand Bank - Recent additions to the outer sea wall have shut down exposure to the NE, making the inner harbor calmer and major harbor improvements are in the works with dredging and an outer harbor for the clam harvesting boats. The Harbormaster's building is located on the main wharf and has showers and bathrooms. The Harbormaster, George Snook, was very helpful. The inner harbor has two floating piers. The Irving gas station, visible from the docks, will deliver fuel. The Grand Banks museum is worth a visit, giving a view into the lives of the men and vessels of the area.

St. Brides - Pay attention to the green buoy about 50 yards from the entrance, at low tide the beach comes out nearly to it. Don't moor for any length of time to the red wharf, on the starboard side on entering, this is where the fishing boats unload.

A hurricane in 2000 or 1999 destroyed the harbor. The sea wall has been rebuilt to approximately 16 feet high. Two floating docks form an "L" on the port side on entering, which was full when I was there. Turning space is tight and not suggested for boats greater than 40 feet LOA.

In addition to the convenience store there is a restaurant about 2 km from the harbor. Stay left at the store when leaving the harbor. The restaurant has the normal fare and is licensed. Note the yard full of large carved wooden ships on the way.

Aquaforte - The anchorage by the waterfall at Howlet Point is a good anchorage, as reported by Blake Cady. The outflow from the waterfall orients the boat even against a light breeze.

From Michael Moore onboard Rosita:

St. John's - It's recommended that one call St. John's Traffic on VHF 11 as you enter their traffic separation system, as marked on the chart. They will also request hearing from you when you dock and for clearance to cast off for departure. Currently the last four berths in the NW corner of the harbor are for one boat each (no tying alongside another boat) to leave room for container ships access on the opposite wharf. Harbor dues should be paid at the blue Port Authority building at the very east end of Water Street. There are two sail repair options: United Sails, just north of Quidi Vidi lake and Creative Canvas, which is further out of town.

Long Pond - The channel markers up the inside of the shingle beach are now lit red and green as appropriate. The dockage fee is 75c/ft/night which includes shower, laundry machines, 110 AC and water. However, dock space is limited.

Bonavista Harbour - Still lots of gear either side of the fairway. The floating dock has now been extended further than shown on the 1999 chart. It has a green flasher at the southern end. Dockage is 32c/ft/night. In June 2001 the harbormaster was about to move to new offices in the east of the Matthew boatshed at the head of the floating dock. There will be showers and laundry for a fee. A museum, The Ryan Premises, is now part of the Parks Canada National Historic Site. It has an excellent folk, fishing and sealing history display, well labeled with excellent guides. The museum is located on the harbor just south of the FPI plant, now processing crab and shrimp.

Seldom, Fogo Island - Dockage is $15 per night. Everyone is very friendly. Email is available at library in center of island at schools. Best grocery is the Coop on the road from Seldom to Fogo Harbour. There are no taxis, but locals are happy to give rides.

Fortune Harbour, Notre Dame Bay - The mussel operations do not appear to have expanded beyond that described in the guide. Anchored north of Gillespie Island where the Bruce anchor took two tries to bite in softish mud.

Fourche Harbour, Williamsport - Bruce anchor useless on the rocky ledge bottom. The Fisherman held well, but given SW 40 forecast, we put lines to either shore as well. There is a large good ringbolt about 40 yards south of the southern most dock on the east side. The southern most dock on the west side is sturdy with about 5 feet at low water. About 7 houses appear maintain, but nobody was there when we were. The church has succumbed, graveyard still in good shape, but whaling station needs to be buried. VHF and SSB reception is marginal in here.

St. Anthony - A new, 2001, extensive bulkhead wharf has been built on the north side of the harbor, to the west of the fish plant, or it runs SE from Marguerite Point for about 1/3 of a mile. There is 15 feet at low water. Dockage is $5.75 per night. Fresh water is available from several outlets along the wharf. The outlets require ¾" pipe fitting, not the standard garden hose fitting. 110 AC power is available for $2.00 extra. Showers and laundry facilities are planned. The Harbor Master is Malcolm Campbell, cell phone 709-454-7099. Ultramar and Irving can deliver clear diesel, it often depends on what they have on their trucks as to how soon they can deliver it.

Norris Point Wharf, Bonne Bay - Chart #4658 is not included on the NDI CD (distributor of Canadian electronic charts) for this region. The public wharf is just south of the old ferry dock with 12 foot depths along the outer face, which is perhaps 100 feet long. Apparently the only commercial user of the pier is a coaster delivering road salt twice a summer. Memorial University has a field station at the wharf and operates small boats off the side of the wharf. However a larger research vessel may be based here in the future. Cars can be rented from Deer Lake Airport, and hours drive away, and an excellent way of seeing the national park.

From Sandy Weld onboard Windigo:

St. Anthony - The liquor store does NOT take credit cards, the grocery stores do. Both Tilden and National rental cars are available, both in town and at the airport. There's no easy way to fly to St. Anthony (Boston, Halifax, St. John's, St. Anthony with an overnight in Halifax or St. John's). We found it quicker and less expensive to fly into Deer Lake and rent a one-way car or taxi to St. Anthony, particularly for two or more persons. It's about a four hour drive.

Port au Choix - In addition to the three wharfs mentioned in the guide there is an extensive "new" wharf on the inner northeast side of the harbor. At the southeast end of this wharf are two floating dock, for "small craft". The small museum mentioned in the guide has gone, the Indian bones were reburied so they would be in peace again. Across the street from the fish plant (PFI) is the Heritage Center with relics of old Port au Choix on display. Up the hill, headed out of town, is a fair sized Foodland grocery store and pharmacy.

Updates from 2000

	Northwest Arm of CINQ Cerf Bay

Port aux Basques - Comments from Bruce Clark, Bob Zimmerman and Carl Lundgren in '00: A new 40 knot catamaran ferry (between Sidney and Port aux Basque) makes checking with Port aux Basques Traffic Control very important, particularly in foggy conditions. These people are very helpful and welcome visitors to the station once you're ashore. The harbor continues to be a busy, crowded and polluted.

Dockage: The floating docks were new in 2000 and lie parallel to the high permanent wharf. The ledges are still there, so be careful, but the water is very clear which helps.

Harbour Le Cou - Comment from Bruce Clark in '00: "The Basin" now has an enormous aquaculture operation covering the northern 2/3 of the bay.

La Poile Bay - Comments from Carl Lundgren in '00: Galleyboy Harbor: Anchoring here is, if not prohibited, at least dangerous due to a submarine power cable entering the water on the south side of Galleyboy and crossing La Poile Bay to serve the town of Little Harbor. There are prominently posted "No Anchoring" signs. Little Bay, the village here is a delight. The ferry used the town dock's south face during the day and it's NW face during the night. There are no cars or trucks in town, only 3 or 4 wheeled ATVs, which share the poured concrete sidewalks with you. The village has 2 stores, a post office, and a 3 room K-8 grade school. A scenic walk is under construction that roughly follows the new power lines back toward the main portion of La Poile Bay. The scenic walk is armed with cannons recovered from 18th century defenses.

The stores' stock depends on when deliveries arrive on the ferry, same with fuel. Don't count on reprovisioning here.

White Bear Bay - Comments from Carl Lundgren in '00: We anchored in 22 feet of water over a mud bottom 1.5 miles north of Blow-Me-Down Point where a waterfall runs into the bay and lay comfortably to the 1 knot current flowing out of the bay.

Burgeo - Comments from Bruce Clark in '00: No evidence of the Marine Service Center other than a travel lift. The Provincial Park, located just west of town, has walking trails, some of which overlook the island route if your headed to the westward.

Ramea Islands - Comments from Ned Cabot in '00: The approach to the inner harbor, from the north, is now aided by one red and one green channel buoys.

Dockage: The government wharf is in good condition, we rode out a gale there quite comfortably. The fish plant wharves now look pretty tenuous and have locked gates.

Services: The bank was open on Thursday and Friday. There are two small stores in town in addition to the main grocery store. There is a bar at the head of the government wharf, which is a real hoot, particularly if you play darts. There is a restaurant, the Rock Island Café, with both take-out and sit-down meals that are quite reasonable. The population is down to about 700, from 1,224 in 1992. There is a huge new school for the 90 children on the island and a full time nurse. The ferry comes over from Burgeo 2 or 3 times every day in summertime and somewhat less often in the winter.

Grey River - Comment from Bob Zimmerman in '00: Clean diesel was purchased from Garfield Young's General Store in both '98 and '00.

Hare Bay - Comments from Carl Lundgren in '00: 6 to 8 foot swells from distant hurricane Alfredo were crashing on the entrance cliffs, while our two GPS units clearly showed us tracking over solid land ½ mile east of the charted location of Hare Bay. A reminder of the Guide's comment on page 3 of "Cruising Hints" entitled "Charts".

We anchored in 30 feet outside the falls basin in Morgan Arm. The sandy mud was excellent holding and the swells never made it to this area.

Pushthrough - Comments from Ned Cabot in '00: There is a muscle farm in the bight south of Fishes Nose Point. The lighthouse on Dawson's Point is still manned.

Round Harbor (Hermitage Bay) - Comments from Ned Cabot in '00: We anchored with no difficulty in about 25 feet of water in the NW "round" cove. There is a fish farm in the NE cove, making it less feasible.

Pass Island - Comments from Ned Cabot in '00: The mooring mentioned in the guide appears to be still well maintained, however, we experienced considerable bobble despite relative calm.

Harbor Breton - Comments from Ned Cabot in '00: Gasoline, but not diesel, is available from pumps at dockside. A fairly large and well stocked grocery store is located very handy to the dock.

Jerseyman's Harbour - Comments from Bob Zimmerman in '00: Fishery equipment has recently been installed in the north end of the harbor.

Northeast Arm (north side of Fortune Bay) - Comments from Ned Cabot in '00: Tickle Beach Cove, just south of the First Narrows, was too shoal and had too much bobble from the strong winds coming up Northeast Arm. The road, some power lines and half a dozen cabins are visible in all of Balden's Cove, so we anchored in Nancy's Cove in 30 - 40 feet of water with good holding.

Old Bay within Great Bay de l'Eau - Comments from Ned Cabot in '00: We anchored inside Deepwater Point in 30 feet of water with good holding in gravel and good protection from south or west winds.

Miller's Passage within Great Bay de l'Eau - Comment from Ned Cabot in '00: A huge aquiculture farm almost completely blocks the passage northwest of Devils Island.

Belle Harbor (north shore of Fortune Bay) - Comments from Ned Cabot in '00: We anchored near the head of the fjord in 30 feet with excellent holding in mud bottom and lots of swinging room. There was no bobble despite a strong SW wind.

Little Bay de l'Eau (north shore of Fortune Bay), 47º 37'N, 54º 56'W, - Comments from Ned Cabot in '00: This beautiful little fjord was unnavigable in 2000 due to a very extensive aquaculture operation occupying the entire inlet from the narrows on in and around to the east. The owner/operator of the muscle farm said there should be navigable channels down either side of the farm, between it and the shore. Passing between the colored barrels should be avoided, as there may be lines strung 8 feet deep - or less - between them.

Bay l'Argent - Comment from Ned Cabot in '00: The filling station on the main highway did not sell diesel, nor was fresh water easily obtainable at the town dock.

Fortune - Comments from Bob Zimmerman, Ned Cabot, Noel Lien, Carl Lundgren and the Harbour Authority of Fortune in '00: A full time Harbor Supervisor stands by on VHF channel 10, his office is located in the building complex adjacent to the floating docks. The open water to the SW is shoal, where one can ground without effort. This area is buoyed with orange buoys (floats). Lights are on the end of the Fisherman's Wharf and the Floating Docks. The water depth in the marina area, with 12 docks, is 6 to 10 feet at normal low water. Neither fresh water nor fuel is available at these docks. Showers and laundry facilities are located in the Harbormasters building.

St Pierre - Comment from Bruce Clark and Carl Lundgren in '00: The Yachting Center has sail repair capabilities as part of it's facilities. Visit Ille aux Marins and the restored fishing village; the museums and restored buildings give a glimpse of life at the beginning of the 20th century when the village was abandoned sometime after WWI.

Marystown - Comment from Ned Cabot in '00: Beau Boise Cove is another anchorage. The entrance is to the north of the islet in the center with at least two fathoms of water. We anchored behind the islet on the east side of the cove, the southern end being too shoal.

Little Paradise Harbor, 47º 21'N, 54º 35'W, - The entrance is very easy with a light on the point on the SW side; leave it close to port when entering. Leave the visible rocks to starboard, then head straight over a 3.5 fathom bar. A wharf is located at the north end of the inner harbor. There are a few cottages and no road.

Baine Harbor - Comment from Ned Cabot in '00: The narrow entrance is well marked with lighted buoys. The overhead cable no longer exists.

Little Sandy Harbor, 47º 41'N, 54º 19'W, - Comment from Ned Cabot in '00: This is a very pleasant anchorage that is easy to enter between Jigging Pt. and Steering Rk., with good protection in most winds, good holding and habitation. On the north side is a long sandy beach. The SW end is very shoal.

Western Cove on Bar Haven Island, 47º 42'N, 54º 14'W, - Comment from Ned Cabot in '00: Depending upon the winds direction there are three fine anchorages here. In Glendon Cove there is a small beach and a lovely waterfall. There are a few cottages at either end of Western Cove.

Trepassey Harbor - Comment from Carl Lundgren in '00: The rough sides of the wharf located on the east shore, south of Meadow Point, suggests the use of fender boards. The moderate sized grocery store, open on Saturday evening, is only a short walk from this wharf.

Port Kirwan - Comments from Carl Lundgren in '00: This is a delightful stop, the locals made us feel right at home!

Bonavista Harbor - Comment from Carl Lundgren in '00: The harbor has floating docks, however, a word of caution, the docks are anchored with cables that stretch at an angle which forced us to dock and subsequently leave the dock without moving parallel to the dock to avoid hanging our keel on the cable.

The town has all the supplies one normally needs, plus public transportation to Gander or St. John's. The locals are helpful and genuinely friendly. A museum is located by the floating docks and houses the replica of the Mathew. The museum has become part of Parks Canada and includes skits depicting life on The Rock 100+ years ago and daily traditional music presentations.

La Scie Harbour - Comment from Noel Lien and Carl Lundgren in '00: There are now floating docks at the public wharf on the east side of the harbor with lots of water depth and space. It is a short walk to town. An excellent small private museum is located along the road to town.

Fourche Harbour - Comments from Noel Lien and Carl Lundgren in '00: We were able to tie to the inner most wharf in the NE corner of Northeast Cove with about 10 feet of water. The church has now fallen down as have most of the buildings at the whaling station. The docks at the whaling station are in ruins and cannot be used, however, there is lots of interesting stuff to look at and wonder about.

St. Anthony - Comments from Noel Lien and Carl Lundgren in '00: The town is in the process of building new docks and facilities on the north side of the harbor, just east of Marguerite Bay. (Editor's note: This may alleviate the congestion at the government wharf, please keep me informed).

The floating docks at the Grenfell Mission are shoal and one side, in 2000, was rented to a whale watch tour boat. This dock is also used to load and unload passengers from cruise ships.

A 700 + step stairway has been construced to the top of the south cliffs overlooking the harbor entrance and provides spectacular views when the weather cooperates.

Quirpon Tickle - Comments from Noel Lien in '00: Butterpot Rock; the lighted buoy can be right on the rock! No matter which way one enters the Tickle, don't steer for the buoy, but hug the north shore. We went through with no less than 9 feet of water.

We rafted to the government wharf and spent an unpleasant night as we were downwind from the fish plant that was in around the clock operation unloading shrimp boats. The community doesn't have any services though it was possible to get fresh water on the dock and fuel was delivered by truck.

St. Barbe - Comments from Carl Lundgren in '00: The entrance is well buoyed, but follow them carefully and watch out for the Blanc Sablon ferry and also the freighters loading and unloading at the ferry dock or soon from the new dock, being built in 2000, adjacent to the ferry dock.

Anchoring well up the East River is still the best spot, the holding in sand was excellent.

Port au Choix - Back Arm - Comments from Noel Lien and Carl Lundgren in '00: There are now a few floating docks at the Marine Center on the east side of the harbor. Take care entering or leaving the inner slips, there are several hard spots. Showers and laundry facilities are available. There are two large wharves across the arm toward town, the SE wharf is called the "hockey stick" by locals, the next wharf toward the center of town is the fish plant and busy.

There are two grocery stores on the main street near the "hockey stick" and a real super market about 1½ miles out of town on the main road to Hawke's Bay. It's an interesting walk around town visiting the numerous Paleoeskimo Archaeological sites.

Neddy's Harbor, Bonne Bay - Comments from John Harries and Carl Lundgren in '00: The question of the holding here continues, we managed to get our heavy ground tackle to stick after several attempts. However, several other boats came in and left after repeated attempts to anchor failed.

Woody Point, Bonne Bay - Comments from Carl Lundgren in '00: A ferry is back in business shuttling visitors from Woody Point across to Neddy's Harbor and running tours. The Youth Hostel, located near the school, allowed us to use their showers. The Marine Service Center, just south of town, hauled and replaced a yachts propeller quickly and efficiently.

Southeast Harbor, Bonne Bay - Comments from Carl Lundgren in '00: This harbor is located at the very end of SE Arm and is a landlocked basin. The majority of the basin is much too deep for anchoring. However, in the SE corner, where the river enters, we found excellent holding in sand and mud in water about 16 feet deep. That night we lay to a slack anchor rode in a flat calm, while in Neddy's Harbor and Woody Point there was 25 to 30 knot winds from the SW.

Rocky Harbor - Comments from Carl Lundgren in '00: We moved from Woody Point to Rocky Harbor when a SE gale was forecast. Upon arriving the inside of the "L" shaped government wharf was almost full with fishing boats. A local fisherman instructed us to lie alongside his boat, he wasn't going out that night because of the forecast. There was a westerly swell when we arrived, but inside the "L" it was calm and no problem with our 9 foot draft. The SE gale came and pinned us to the fishing boat, but the protection from any wave action was total.

Allen's Cove, Bay of Islands - Comments from Carl Lundgren in '00: The Bay of Islands Yacht Club dedicated their new clubhouse on July 4, 2000. This is a nice facility, which handled 20 visiting yachts that weekend plus their member's boats. The basin is a little deeper than the entrance; our 9 foot draft required a mid tide to enter and exit, but we had 11 feet on our floating dock.

The clubhouse has shower and laundry facilities. Fuel is delivered to the dock by truck and members go out of their way to help visitors. This completely sheltered facility should be high on the list of places to stop for crew changes, resupplying and certainly as a storm refuge.

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