The Cruising Guide to Newfoundland

Updates from 2009 - 2011

The current edition of the guide is dated April, 2009 or 2010. This date can be found on the contents page.

Special Appeal for Future Updates
The editor of this guide make a special appeal to all cruisers sailing to Newfoundland - PLEASE keep notes on your travels and send us updated information and pictures to my email: info@pilot-press.com. Or by snail mail to: Pilot Press, 29 Fairgreen Place, Chestnut Hill, MA 02467. Many thanks

HARBOR UPDATES
Starting at the Southwest Coast, moving counter-clockwise around the island.

PORT aux BASQUES

2011 - Doug and Dale Bruce: In the past the Harbour Authority used not to allow anchoring anywhere within Port aux Basques harbor. That has now changed. During a pretty ferocious gale experienced there in early July, 2011, we know of two boats who anchored successfully and happily in the large bay to the north of the ferry terminal, near Money Island. In fact they rode out the gale more comfortably than did some of us tied to wharves where a significant swell coming in through the harbor entrance caused us to rub against the large tires draped over the sides when the backing wind pushed us in that direction. The only "formality" is to ask permission of PaB Traffic Control to move your boat when there is no ferry traffic expected. Ditto for getting your dinghy to the floating docks on the far side of the harbor.

ISLE aux MORTS, 47°35.2N 058°58.8W

2011 - Rich Feeley: We tied alongside the dock at the Marine Service Center, which is protected from the east and south. Found ice at the convenience store at the top of the hill above the Marine Service Center. Walked along the George Harvey Trail---excellent views, and a remarkable story of heroism by Harvey, his children, and his Newfoundland dog, Hairyman. A local watering hole is now named for this beast, which swam a line through the surf to a grounded ship, enabling the Harvey family to evacuate all the crew and passengers with a breeches buoy.

2011 - Trevor Robinson: Isle aux Morts (pronounced Eye la Mort) is a small town about 6 miles east of Port aux Basques, to which it is connected by road. There are two public docks in the town and several good anchorages nearby. There should be no problem entering in most weather.

Approaches: There are two main entrances to Isle aux Morts. The Eastern Passage is wide and well marked. The Western Passage is narrower but also well marked and presents no problems in good visibility. There is little reason to use the rock-encumbered Middle Passage.

Docking: There are two public docks in the town. The largest and newest is NW of the Marine Service Centre and boatlift. It is a substantial pier with adequate depths alongside all the way to shore. Some surge usually finds its way down the Eastern Passage making the SW face of the dock uncomfortable. In September 2011 there was plenty of room on the inner (NE) side of the dock but this berth looks as if it would be uncomfortable and perhaps dangerous in a NE gale. There is a long fetch to the NE and the valley beyond will probably act as a wind funnel.

The other public dock is in a narrow tickle south of the town. The dock is L-shaped. The outside of the dock has 2-3 metres alongside and should be a good berth in anything except a SW gale when surge could find its way in around Pitmans Island. The outside of the dock was unoccupied in September 2011, which may indicate the locals feel the same way. The inside of the dock is well protected but the gap between the dock and the shore is only 10m wide so most yachts would not be able to get in even if there were room amongst the small local boats crowded in there. The safest place if severe weather is forecast is probably at anchor in Squid Hole or Mickle Tickle. In September 2011 Iron Bark rode out 40-50 knot winds brought by Hurricane Maria in Squid Hole with two anchors and two shore lines and would have had no problem lying to a single anchor.

Services: It is only a short drive to Port aux Basques and its shops so only basic supplies are available in Isle aux Morts. There are at least two convenience stores and a post office but no fuel in town. The Marine Service Centre was still operating the Travelift in September 2011 but the boat yard looked neglected.

Anchoring: There are two good anchorages, Squid Hole and Mickle Tickle, and a number of other options in settled weather.

SQUID HOLE
2011 - Travor Robinson: The entrance is through a 50m wide channel leaving Squid Island to port. The opening is not visible until the last moment when approaching from the Western Passage. From the Eastern Passage the apparent opening to the east of Squid Island is rock-filled and there is no passage through this gap: leave Squid Island to port. Enter mid-channel between Squid Island and Isle aux Morts Island then turn to starboard keeping 25m off the west shore until past the rocky ledge which lies approximately 70m south of Squid Island. This ledge covers at HWS but is marked by bladder-wrack weed which is visible when the rock is covered. Once inside anchor anywhere convenient except in the cove on the NE side where the bottom is rocky with much kelp. Elsewhere holding is good in 7-8m, mud. The shores are mostly steep-to so there is more swinging room than it first appears. Shore lines can be used if severe weather is expected. The spruce trees on the shore are not suitable tie points as they are diminutive and shallow rooted. Iron Bark used ropes to chain slings, one around rocks and one knotted and dropped in a rock crack like a climber's jammer, to ride out gale force winds brought by Hurricane Maria.

MICKLE TICKLE
2011 - Rich Feeley: The anchorage recommended by Ned Cabot is indeed beautiful. However, we could not find the coarse mud holding ground which he encountered. We tried three times to plant the 20kg. plow anchor in the location suggested. It dragged each time, bouncing in a way that suggested a rock bottom. Rather than getting the fisherman's anchor on deck we moved over to the wharf at Isle aux Morts.

2011 - Trevor Robinson: This is a narrow NE-SW trending tickle entered through a 40m wide cut with a minimum mid-channel depth of 3m. Rocky ledges extending out from either shore reduce the navigable width in the entrance to about 20m. Past the entrance the tickle opens up to a maximum width of about 90m with depths of 3-5m. Depths then decrease to 1.8m or less where the tickle narrows. The narrows lead to a narrow, shallow dinghy passage connecting the south end of Mickle Tickle to Western Passage. There should be adequate swinging room in widest part but the tickle looks as if it could become a wind funnel in a NE or SW gale because of its orientation and high sides. I chose Squid Hole in preference to either Mickle Tickle or the public docks when Hurricane Maria was forecast but probably would have been safe in one of these other berths.

2010 - The Canadian Coast Guard was proposing to discontinue the range lights located on Potato Island in 2010.

ROSE BLANCHE

2011 - It was reported that there were two well-stocked grocery stores; a café-restaurant and a post office, but fuel was not available.

2011 Trevor Robinson: Rose Blanche is a pretty little town with a population of about 600 in September 2011. It is on the end of the road from Port aux Basques. Like much of the south coast of Newfoundland is has an aging population. It is the base for the ferry to Lapoile which is the only remaining outport between Rose Blanche and Burgeo since Grand Brit and Petites have been abandoned. Approach: There is a red/white fairway buoy (Mo A) to seaward of the Rose Blanche Shoals and a pair of red and green buoys leading in past the shoals to Cains Island which has a light on its south end. Rose Blanche Shoals break heavily in bad weather and should be avoided even in good weather as they can break unexpectedly. The granite lighthouse on Rose Blanche Point is conspicuous. Once beyond Cairns Island the four coves that comprise Rose Blanche open up. Three of the coves are usable berths and the entrances are buoyed. Anchoring/Docking: The bay east of Rose Blanche looks to be well protected but requires anchoring in fairly deep water (15m). Iron Bark did not use this anchorage. There is nowhere to go alongside in this cove as the dock on the western side is derelict and collapsing and the substantial new dock on the east side in front of the small fish receiving facility is reserved for unloading fish. The next cove to the west is the narrow tickle around which the town is built. It has a public wharf on its east side. This dock is no longer used by the ferry so is available for use by yachts but is likely to be crowded with fishing boats and it will probably be necessary to raft outside one of them. There are floating docks on either end of the public dock which usually have skiffs alongside preventing a visitor from using them. The locals say this dock is well protected in any wind.

West of the town is another narrow tickle known locally as Crow Cove. Locals so not recommend this as an anchorage, probably because of its restricted swinging room and poor holding.

West Arm with the Lapoile ferry alongside the dock.

West Arm is the westernmost cove in Rose Blanche and has a large derelict fish processing plant at its head. There is a substantial U-shaped wharf in front of the fish plant whose east arm is used by the Lapoile ferry. The ferry uses the outer 2/3 of this arm and generally seems to berth on its east face, though this probably depends on weather. The rest of the wharf is no longer maintained but in September 2011 was in fairly good condition. The residents of Lapoile park their cars around the old fish plant, Rose Blanche being their roadhead. There is a good anchorage off the fish plant in 6m, mud, good holding, but by reputation it can get windy. With a strong north wind enough swell finds its way into West Arm to make it uncomfortable and the anchorage is probably untenable in a strong south wind. A footpath leads past the cemetery over the hill to the town centre.

Ashore: In September 2011 there were two well-stocked grocery stores, a café/restaurant and a post office. Fuel is not locally available. There are a number of good walks around the town, particularly out to the restored lighthouse on Rose Blanche Point and across to La Cou down the old La Cou road.

2010 - Mike Yendell: The ferry no longer goes to the main harbour wharf in the central cove, it goes into the West Arm to the Ferry dock located by the old fish processing plant, which is now closed and derelict. The West Arm is entered via a buoyed channel. This arm is much more open to seas from the south. We tied up to the outside of the south floating dock in the central cove - don't go inside it, you may foul its mooring chain, and it's shallow. Charge was $10/night."

PETITES

2010 - Neither of the wharves on the western side of the harbor is a very good shape, but as of 2010 the innermost one may be used. The path up from this wharf is dilapidated and potentially dangerous though, so be very careful.

LITTLE GARIA BAY

2001 - Michael Moore: Is as is described in the guide, but in 25' of water at 47° 36.3N 58° 35.1W there was good mud. There was a 2m swell running outside and at half tide or better there was a significant roll at anchor, as the bar was less of a bar at HW.

LA POILE

2011 - Rich Feeley: The floating dock is still in place at the Government pier in Little Harbor, and we were able to tie outside an idle fishing boat for the night. Everyone in town was most helpful. Primary school is still in operation, but students go to Port Aux Basques for high school. Homes well kept, many with carefully tended gardens. This is now the last inhabited outport between the end of the road in Rose Blanche and Burgeo. Can it survive?

GRAND BRUIT

2011 - Rich Feeley: All of the infrastructure is still in excellent shape---the bridge over the waterfall and both piers. The church dominates the town, but the furniture inside is gone. Even the floating docks were in place and in very good condition. The police boat was just departing as we arrived, presumably keeping some measure of surveillance on the town. The causeway out to the eastern headland is beginning to deteriorate, but you can still walk out to the cemetery which overlooks the harbor and the waters to the east, and sit atop the hill with a sweeping view across the waters and rocks from southeast to southwest. Signs still point to the network of hiking trails, but the paths are becoming fainter with lack of use.

Two of the approach buoys had dragged (reported on the Notice to Mariners). One was tied to the pier on the west side of the harbor, light still flashing. But the Canadian Coast Guard seemed in no hurry to return it to station.

As people sell out to the Government, the power to their homes is disconnected. A few local families have retained their homes (and power connections), although they have shifted full time residence to Burgeo or Port aux Basques. We met some (the Billards) who were in Grand Bruit on a visit. From the southeastern headland, the view of the village was picture perfect but empty. The only sign of life was Antigone and the Billard's skiff, and two lines of laundry blowing in the breeze.

2010 The most recent outport to be abandoned, Grand Bruitt was closed in 2010. The ferry no longer stops there, but the harbor is useful and a stroll ashore may give the visitor some idea of what outport life was like

CINQ CERF BAY - CULOTTE COVE

2011 - Trevor Robertson: Cinq Cerf Bay is of easy access and Culotte Cove at its head is a well protected anchorage. The surrounding country has a wild beauty with some fine walks following the numerous moose and caribou trails. Birds include bald eagles, loons and phalaropes as well the usual shags and gulls. There is a sand beach near the head of Culotte Cove suitable for beaching a vessel for bottom scrubbing or repairs. Tide range is about 1.7m on springs, 1.2m on neaps.

Approach: Leave Flat Island, a low rocky island, and black south cardinal buoy to the north of it, to starboard on entry then steer to pass about a quarter mile off Black Rock (2m high), keeping well east of Big Sunker and Tinker Sunkers. From Black Rock steer to pass a similar distance off Wild Cove Point past Diver Reef, which should be visible in most conditions. Follow the shore past Seal Rocks (2m high and quite extensive) towards Woody Island (15m high and partially covered with spruce). When Woody Island is abeam, turn to port and steer for the conspicuous cliff on Betty Head thence, favouring the north shore, into Culotte Cove. There is a 3m sand bar across the entrance to the cove with a narrow 5m channel across it. The bar is deep enough for most yachts to cross without finding the deeper section, which is a little to the north of the centre of the channel.

Anchorages: Culotte Cove: The anchorage in Culotte Cove in 5-7m, good holding with adequate swinging room reasonable weather. In strong winds it will be necessary to run shore lines or move to the Northeast Arm. The bottom in the main part of the anchorage is peat, presumably a relict from a period of lower sea levels when Cinq Cerf was a pond dammed by the bar at its mouth. The anchorage is well protected except from the east where the fetch is a little over half a mile.

Northeast Arm: There is a hurricane hole is at the head of Northeast Arm between an islet and NE shore with lines to the shore and islet. There is not room to swing. There is a rock in the middle of the entrance to the cove which covers at high tide and can be difficult to see through the tannin-stained water. Leave this rock close to starboard on entry then turn hard to starboard to leave the islet close to port and pick up the permanent mooring line that, in September 2011, was set up between the islet and shore. The narrowest part of the channel is opposite the rock in the entrance where it is about 9m wide. The permanent mooring line was in fair condition only in September 2011 and in bad weather should be doubled it using the yacht's own lines as well as running lines to the tree-clad south shore of the cove. The trees on the mainland to the south are substantial enough to be trusted as tie points but those on the islet and point to the east are more dubious so Iron Bark used chain slings around rocks there. The cove is protected from all winds and Iron Bark comfortably road out a severe storm that stopped the Newfoundland ferries for three days.

Betty Cove is subject to considerable surge if there is any swell outside and is not a good anchorage. There are several streams suitable for watering but all are tan discolored with tannin.

BURGEO

2011 - Rich Feeley: The Marine Service Center is now run by June Hiscock, a local dynamo who also directs the Burgeo Museum. Showers and toilet facilities are excellent. In addition to having the travel lift available for repairs, June is prepared to help an owner order parts or find necessary services. With an easterly blow forecast, we waited for the launch of a fishing boat, then moved into the Travelift slot where we spent a comfortable night. Antigone draws 6 ½ feet, and we saw no evidence that she grounded out at low tide when tied in this slip.

You need a car to get to the service station for diesel, or to the Foodland for supplies and water. There is still a boil order on the municipal water supply. The hardware store is within walking distance, well supplied, and also serves as the liquor store. There is a taxi in town to help with errands, and it is most reasonably priced.

We found time for a walk in Sandbanks Provincial Park, where we encountered a local bridal party just completing a beachfront service. We also enjoyed an evening with a local folk and country musician at the Museum, where June was presiding over a nearly full house of local residents and visitors.

2009 - June Hiscock, sister to "Burgeo Joe" Hiscock who used to run the Burgeo Marine Service Center, wrote recently to advise that the town is working on getting back the same friendly and useful services that were available just a few short years ago. They expect to renovate facilities including a laundry room that's not in the bathroom, a paved parking lot, and Internet access; so hopefully by summer 2010, the Burgeo Marine Service Centre, managed by Harbour Authority of Burgeo will be a pleasurable visit for all boaters.

June also suggests visitors should be sure to visit the Burgeo Museum, Maiden Tea Hill, and Sandbanks Provincial Park. You can call her at 709-886-2069 or write to P.O. Box 283, Burgeo, NL, A0N 2H0

GREY RIVER

2011 - Michael Moore: Paul Sheldon's Cove on S side of SE Arm. 47° 36.224N 057° 01.298W. Four lines ashore in 25' of water. A 'scramble ashore' is an understatement. Ropes and pitons could be useful. Amazing dragonflies kept the black flies at bay.

RAMEA ISLANDS

2011 - Rich Feeley notes that a new government dock has been added southeast of the disintegrating fish plant.

2011 - Michael Moore: There is now a float extending east from the SW end of the Govt. wharf. Shallow on the west end, but better depths on the east end of this. The deck of the Govt.wharf is starting to rot, but apparently money has been allocated to fix it. Yachts still welcome on Govt. wharf, but about 5 longliners live there. Lying across the end is a good option. The fish plant wharf is definitely not an option at this point. Population a bit less than 600, but apparently now stable. Ramea has an excellent municipal water system, with state of the art purification. No obvious spigot on the Govt. wharf, but suspect water could be found with some perseverance and or a borrowed wheelbarrow and jugs etc. The three new windmills nearest the town are an experimental system to bank hydrogen to power generators. It isn't working well yet. Eastern Outdoors (not Outfitters as described in 2010 guide) just E of the Govt. wharf has internet, showers, laundry, café food and bug nets. Ferry comes and goes 2 or 3 times a day.

2009 - Blair Pyne report there is now Internet service at the local school and at Eastern Outfitters. John Duquesne confirms that showers are available at the guesthouse.

FRANCOIS

2011 - Michael Moore: A forecast SW30 outside lead to 50 knot sustained gusts on the float at the head of the harbor, with 4 yachts alongside it. The wind was heavy but no waves to speak of. The float appears to have two anchors to the south as the primary holding points. It stayed put remarkably well. There is talk of moving that float to the west side of the harbor to expand the float system just north of the ferry dock. Apparently Francois is worst in a NE gale, when the wind bounces off the west side cliffs and hits the east side of the harbor hard. So moving the float to the west side makes sense. In the westerly blow experienced it was much more protected on the west side than where the yacht float is currently. The guide suggests a swim in the pond above the cemetery. Not sure this makes sense given that it is the town water supply.

2011 - Rich Feeley: Floating dock still in excellent condition and an ideal place to tie up. Hard to see how this harbor is protected from offshore swells, but we had a very quiet night. One waterfront home in town is maintained by owners from Nova Scotia, who make it available for rent. The steps to the overlook on the west side of the harbor are in good condition, and the view into the hills and down on the town is ample reward for this moderate hike. Proprietor of the local store opened on a Sunday morning to accommodate us and one other client.

2009 - Ann & Brad Willauer report there is now good Wi-Fi service available.

NEW HARBOUR (Parsons Harbour Post Office)

2009 - According to Randell & Joan Pope who visited in 2008, there is good holding here and they found it to be an attractive and interesting area to explore with a cemetery containing well marked grave stones.

McCALLUM

2011 - Michael Moore, Doug Bruce report: There is now a yacht friendly float attached to the east face of the Govt Pier where yachts are welcome. $6 a night. Locals concerned that the govt did not listen to them re the float's location and hence unlikely it will survival through the winter so it may or may not be there in 2012, or it may be on the inside where they wanted it in the first place. McCallum still well, albeit significant loss of population continues.

2011 - Rich Feeley: The town now has a floating dock off the Government wharf, which simplifies the docking maneuver. Fudge's Store is immediately above the wharf. Terry McDonald, the harbor master, came by soon after our arrival, and we had a wonderful visit, when he shared the harbor guest book going back to Antigone's prior visits in 2004 and 2005. Terry's wife Margaret died in the fall of 2010 after a long bout with ALS. Terry stayed with her in St. John's throughout the illness, but is now back in McCallum full time. McCallum retains its carefully maintained homes and post card beauty, with gardens even more impressive than before.

We were given a cut of moose which made an excellent stew. McCallum residents hunt these by taking a boat to the head of Facheux (Fooshee) Bay and then trekking across the tundra in search of one of the beasts. Moose permits are allocated in a lottery, and the hunt may be a collective affair with others in town sharing the meat with the successful lottery winner. Packing a haunch of moose for miles back to the boat is no easy feat, so help would be welcome. For villagers, the high cost of fuel---even for the relatively short trip to the head of Facheux Bay---can be a deterrent to this traditional method of supplementing the protein supply. While proliferating moose are a traffic hazard in Newfoundland, the official who suggested their introduction 100 years ago was right that they could make an important contribution to the outport diet.

BAY D'ESPOIR

NORTH BAY
2011 - Michael Moore: Tucked in behind Indian Point at the head of North Bay indeed is snug in a moderate southerly. But note that at LW there is a drying reef to the SW of Dogberry Rock on the west side of center if you do a dinghy excursion north from the anchorage. D'Espoir Brook becomes unpassable by dinghy one bend after the cabin on the point to the west of Thomey Cove. The wind while there ranged from E to SW, but mostly lay headed SE. Looks like there is a steady freshwater current from the brooks going south which is pushed west by Indian Point, hence the way the boat seemed to want to lie pointed SE, irrespective of the relatively light wind direction or state of the tide.

NORTHWEST COVE
2011 - Michael Moore: A major aquaculture operation is now in the mouth of the cove, but perhaps there is still room to anchor at the top if approached along the western side west of the buoys.

LAMPIODES PASSAGE
2011 - Michael Moore: Beware of aquaculture gear about 1/4 the way across the passage extending out south from Margery Cove.

ROTI BAY
2011 - Michael Moore: Bay still loaded with aquaculture gear.

2009 - For many years the Guide for Roti Bay has warned not to attempt to enter the inner cove northwest of Clay Hole. The late John McKelvy tried and ran aground with a 5.5' draft. In 2005 Walter Wales aboard La Mer entered the bay successfully with a 4"10" draft. In 2009 Blair Pyne on board Homarus with a 6'4" draft successfully entered the inner cove and anchored in 20 feet of water. He carried 10.5 feet an hour after high water and crossed the bar at 47 48.393N-055 53.632W. The salmon pens are still there but without nets.

ST. ALBANS

2011 - Michael Moore: The public wharf here is dirty but welcoming. Very useable and undergoing an extension of the base on the north side to be followed by a new deck and sides for existing structure. Aquaculture detritus all over the place but room to pick your way to a comfortable spot along the outer side. Inner side would be more protected with anything of an easterly blow. CAP internet in library half way to town opposite PO - hours differ each day of week. Gasoline and a diesel truck at the gas bar convenience ice cream store close to St Ignatius Cathedral, which is less than beautiful on the outside, but inside is quite striking - mostly in varnished plywood to great effect. Food store c 200 yards N of Public Wharf. Bank, and drug, hardware, and grocery stores at far end of town. A growing community seemingly in good shape. Not overtly friendly but not the other way either. A house selling potted plants, no less, 300 yards from the public wharf.

LITTLE PASSGE

2011 - Michael Moore: all aquaculture situations as in 2010 guide with the exception of Grip Cove. Now filled with extensive aquaculture.

L'ANSE au FLAMME COVE

2011 - Michael Moore: 'Obvious' rock to be left to starboard is only evident at half tide or lower, but if you stay significantly south of a line between the waterfall east of the Matchums on the far shore, and the point to the south of the first narrow inlet on the port hand till you get to the west side of the cove, all will be well (chart 4944 has it right). Note there are a number of small wrecks in the NW corner of this inlet, but the best place to tie off to both sides is in the narrow neck at its mouth in 25' at LW.

FACHEUX BAY

2011 - Ian Thomas reported that the kelp was so thick that his anchor would not penetrate it.

SAM HITCHES & LITTLE BAY

2011 - Rich Feeley reported that the aquaculture buoys that had blocked the northern part of the bay have apparently been removed.

2011 - Michael Moore: There is just one buoy now at the mouth of the head of the Sam Hitches fjord. No aquaculture, although the gear is still stashed ashore on the west bank. Wind was blowing hard down the fjord so elected not to anchor at the head by the small waterfall. In the cove on the west just before the covering islet despite several attempts at getting first a 100lb Bruce and then a 100lb Fisherman to hold in 25', all that was found was kelp and smooth rock. The moorings are still there but they look less than dubious. Two cabins in good repair. In contrast the western part of the first cove of Little Bay as described in the guide is snug, unspoiled and spectacular. 4 lines ashore in all directions in 18' depth with the bows about 65' from the head of the cove. Certainly room for perhaps up to three rafted. The brook gurgles but no sign of Jennifer Falls. Great echoes.

JERSEYMAN'S HARBOUR

2011 - Rich Feeley: We found plenty of water and good holding ground between the tip of the sand spit and the rusting wrecked dragger on the shore. One or two outboards from Harbor Breton cruised by, and a flag was flying from one house above the spit. Otherwise, we had this harbor to ourselves.

GRAND BANK

2011 - Rich Feeley: As in 2010, a large derelict dragger continues to tie up two hundred feet of the bulkhead near the Harbormaster's Office. She has supposedly been sold and repairs begun, but the Harbormaster was uncertain when she would clear out of town.

We enjoyed a show at the dinner theatre about Minnie White, a legendary Newfoundland accordion player. Cab fare was remarkably reasonable as we rounded up supplies at Sobey's and the liquor store. Diesel we had to carry across the bridge from the Irving Station on the main road. Despite poor weather for much of the summer of 2011, tourist facilities in town, including a very attractive inn across from the dinner theater, were booked full. There are good shower and toilet facilities in the Harbormaster's Office. Potable water is available by hose on the dock.

The jitney service from St. John's to Grand Bank and Fortune makes it possible to change crews here without having the incoming crew drive a rental car from St. John's.

FORTUNE

2011 - Michael Moore: There is a delightful walk up the valley behind Fortune - access off the approach road to the marina under a wooden arch labeled Horse Brook Trail.

2009 - Peter Plumb aboard Bohème visited the Fortune Head Ecological Reserve near the lighthouse at Fortune Head to learn about the fossils in exposed rocks along the cliffs. They are of great interest because they are from the Precambrian-Cambrian periods which marked a fundamental change in Earth's geological history.

BELLORAM

2010 - New in 2009 is a wharf on portside as you enter. Go around to inside and tie as close to the outer end as you can. Power is available at the wharf. It can be busy with fish feeding morning and evening, but otherwise is quiet. Reasonable store 15 mins. walk from wharf. Anglican Church is worth viewing.

MIQUELON

2010 - Ashore the baquettes at the bakery near the head of the wharf are especially good. But get there by 0600 as the line is long by then.

ST. PIERRE

2011 - Michael Moore: For a 55' boat Yachting Center dockage was 51 euros a night, but got half price for Bastille day, which however was rained off till the following Sunday. Good water on the dock. But it is not RO. The dryer has NOT been fixed!

2010 - The whistle buoy off the entrance to Passe de Nord East was not on location when we were there, perhaps it has been discontinued.

2009 - Stockton Smith aboard Weather Gauge reports: I have sailed to St. Pierre for three years in a row and have always been mystified as to why the clothes dryer in the head at the yachting center takes darn near FOREVER to dry clothes. I finally did some detective work on the machine this summer and noticed that the hot dryer exhaust vents through an aperture in the side of the front wall directly to the right of the front door entrance to the shower/head area. The vent hole is protected by a plastic covering which contains a thick Styrofoam sphere which, by gravity, fits over and covers up the exhaust vent hole. It is designed to prevent cold air from entering the building through the dryer exhaust hose line when not in use. The problem is that the volume of exhaust air is not strong enough to fully push the sphere out of the way to allow unimpeded exhaust flow when the dryer is in use. I used a short stubby 3 inch pencil and wedged the sphere aside and "voila" the dryer functioned normally!

LAMALINE

2009 - Lamaline was dropped from the 2009 guide as we had not had reports of anyone entering this somewhat complicated harbor for many years. Last summer the yacht Vagrant (from the Royal Brussels Yacht Club) with Jean Duquesne skippering explored Lamaline and found a much improved situation. "This harbour has been reconfigured and a new sizeable pier has been built to protect the existing wharf in the SW corner of the basin (which is the NW corner of Allan's island). This provides excellent protection from all winds. The wharf location is somewhat remote from any facilities or community, but this harbour is definitely a stop to consider if you are facing strong adverse winds en route from Saint-Pierre to St Lawrence (or the other way round). The entrance is straightforward - once you have located the lighthouse on Bluff Head on the east coast of Allan's island; just follow the buoys paying some attention for the easily spotted rocks. Once past the entrance of the basin, water is flat no matter how hard it's blowing outside (at least with a strong easterly)."

This picture is from the list of Newfoundland Harbour Authorities website http://www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/sch/hb_nf_e.asp and offers some helpful guidance:

ST. LAWRENCE

2010 - There are now three major wharves on the west side of the harbor. Only the middle wharf is now available for transients with the other two reserved for the fish plant located on the outer end of the jetty.

2010 - Wesley Jones onboard Valiant The fish plant was closed when we were there and the only commercial activity in the two days were were there was one boat that unloaded a catch of whelk. There was no odor and the wharf was in good condition and offered a nice berth.

BURIN

2010 - Berthage on the pier in Ship Cove is $1/metre including electricity. Showers ($2) and coin operated laundry are in the building on the harbour. On p89 in the Ashore Section add the following: "Ship Cove is apparently not good in NE gales and $4.5M funding has been secured for a new breakwater out from the South shore to protect the harbour entrance, as well as an extension to the wharf on the shore-side of the harbour. Work is due to commence in July 2010 and take 7 months, so construction should be complete for the 2011 season."

2009 - Peter Plumb aboard Bohème circumnavigated Newfoundland last summer and here is some of what he has to say about Burin: "The entrance into the Burin area is about as lovely as it gets here - big hills and cliffs, small settlements on the surrounding islands, and finally the town proper area. We tied up at Ship Cove, once again the only sailboat in a fleet of fishing boats moored to the town pier. There was power, water, nice showers, and friendly people to help us get situated. We decided to go to the "entertainment" for the evening, which was a local singer and guitar player performing in what once had been a big bait shed at the waterfront (next to Coast Guard Search & Rescue Station), and now is part of a larger restoration effort going on in the town, much of it privately financed by a single resident. I made it my business to find someone who could show us around the next morning. In a minute we had hitched up with Merle and Diane, retired locals who offered to show us the sights. They picked us up, first to the lovely large old United Church, of which Merle is the treasurer. He let us in, and showed me the pipe organ, which was quite similar to the one from London at the church in Trinity, and in very good shape. I had a great half hour messing around on it, and was told that I made much more noise with it than any of the current organists who use it. Since no-one appeared to be using the pedals, I could understand why. Then we toured the local museum and historical house, had lunch at the local café, and headed on our way. We'd had a perfect morning in Burin."

Photo is of Peter Plumb playing the organ at United Church in Burin, one of more amazing places to visit in Placentia Bay.

MARYSTOWN/LITTLE BAY

2009 - In Little Bay, there are now two floating docks just south of the wharf, accessed from the wharf noted in the Guide, although they were fully occupied by local small crafts. From Jean Duquesne aboard Vagrant.

ODERIN

2009 - Anchoring in the inner harbour, we found much more water than mentioned in the Guide and recorded some 10 to 11 meter depth. From Jean Duquesne.

HARBOUR BUFFETT

2011 Phil and Linda Glaser: "We came into Harbour Buffett and anchored in the Northeast Arm in anticipation of gale force winds from the northeast. A local fellow came by and said we should not be thee. He said the bottom is very soft mud and the holding is not good. He suggested we would be better off anchored over near the 'town' where the holding was good or tied up to the wharf there. The anchor came up clean, not a trace of mud on it. The wharf looked dilapidated and would have put us beam to the wind so we anchored just NE of the little island."

ARGENTIA

2009 - In Argentia at the site of the former US Naval Air Station, one must contact the Harbormaster if you want to tie up at the dock. Reach him via Placentia Radio (channel 16), or use his cell phone (709) 227-7240) There are plans to put an ice breaker on that dock , but there will still be room to tie up for crew changes. Wi-Fi, ATM, mailbox and a decent restaurant are in the ferry terminal that is open everyday.

Add Witless Head Bay to the Alternative Anchorages list. It is at the east end of the arm as you enter Argentia … a lovely sound with 20' of mud at the end; it is a gem. From Ann & Brad Willauer aboard Breezing Up. The chart shows the location:

PLACENTIA

2009 - From Ann & Brad Willauer: No matter what the Harbormaster says, the bridge is not passable. You must go to Argentia and come over to Placentia by cab ($13). The bridge was not operating - meaning it was very inconsistent in it's operation - it gets stuck with no warning; so you might get in, but not get out! Also the Placentia Harbormaster is apt to say everything is fine; only believe the Argentia Harbormaster.

ST. BRIDES

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: Some 5 kilometres east of the harbor, at the junction of the main road and the road leading to the St Mary's Ecological Reserve, there is a restaurant providing Wi-Fi internet access (bring your laptop): Gannet's Nest restaurant (709-227-4997). It was easy getting a ride back and forth between this place and the gas station close to the harbor.

TREPASSY

2010 - Wesley Jones onboard Valiant - on the south side of the wharf in town, a small floating dock has been added.

2010 - Mike Yellen Since the main pier looks problematical in a SW wind, we anchored off the pier in good holding (mud & stones) with a short row ashore to the float. We didn't sound, but looking down the low tide depth at the extreme Southern end of this float looked to be less than the 6 ft we needed."

FERMEUSE

2010 - The fish plant in Lumley Cove was open, meaning that the cove was crowded with fishing boats. In Behind Sheep's Head this is a busy modern facility catering to the fishing fleet. The Operations Manager, Noel, is most friendly and would help if needed. The travel lift is enormous - maybe too big for a small yacht! They don't, however, hold significant stocks of materials likely to be of use to yachts.

FERRYLAND

2010 - It is reported that the "town wharf" was demolished in the 2009-10 winter, so there may or may not be a place to dock."

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: The whole external part of the L shaped pier has collapsed into the sea and no longer exists, which makes tying up somewhat difficult since there is not much water alongside what is remaining. Ashore, we went to Ferryland Café & Gifts (709-432-2130), mid-way between the harbour and the supermarket at the top of the hill. They have special evenings with local musicians playing, serve limited food, and provide really warm welcome.

BAY BULLS

2009 - Peter Plumb reports: The impact of the oil money now flowing into NFLD is evident here. The double L shaped dock now has power and a large floating addition. The old government (navy) dock is now hugely expanded into a staging area for the oil rig industry and a large private dock for their big service vessels coming in. There are several tour boats running trips to the Witless Bay Preserve using other docks, and a dockside restaurant to boot. Change is coming in a big way to this part of Newfoundland.

ST. JOHN'S

2010 - Wesley onboard Valinat. Dockage fees, in 2010, for a 31-40 foot boat were $6.08 per day with a $37.98 min. For a 41-50 foot boat the fees were $8.74 per day with a $47.46 min. and for a 51-60 foot boat they were $13.30 per day with a $56.96 min.

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: We tied up at main pier (#8 on the chart) and had absolutely no fear of any crime related problems; we really felt safe all the time - even leaving the boat open and unattended. Surprisingly there are no showers facilities in such a big town. Editors Note: ask at the local Visitor Information Centre at 348 Water Street.

Peter Plumb reports finding better water for drinking at the fishing boat service facilities on the east side of the harbor - ask the St. John's Port Authority at 1 Water Street for details.

Stockton Smith reports: The shoreside 30 amp electrical outlets along Pier 7 are provided by the Port Authority. The procedure is that an Authority employee unlocks the plug box, records the electrical meter reading and then locks the vessel's power cord into the box. This is all great unless one expects to depart during non-working hours. So be certain to make departure/payment/unplugging arrangements during business hours.

BRIGUS

2010 - Ashore there are two cafes offering lunch, snacks, coffee and tea. The old convent has been converted to a pub and restaurant, open for lunch and dinner during the summer.

CUPIDS

2010 - Bonnie James and Jim Miller reports the town has added 10 rental moorings"

BAY DE VERDE

2010 - The harbour authority building has showers and a laundry.

OLD PERLICAN

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: The passage south of Perlican Island is quite easy and safe - no real need for any buoys here This harbour has undergone major modifications, much more than the floating docks that were due to be added in 2009 and which indeed have been put in position. Two main sizeable wharfs have been added, extending from the main breakwater on the west side of the harbour - the first one in 2003 and the other one in 2008. They are both dedicated to longliners. The northern part of the harbour, described as a "rock garden" in the Guide, has been dredged and the rocks taken from there have been piled up to gain some land space recovered from the harbour, in the northeast area. From there, two parallel floating docks (approx. 50 meters long) have been added. Dredging is not yet complete in the northern section - the next step (in July 2009) was to complete the rock removal. The general idea is to convert this northern part with the two floating docks into a marina area for pleasure craft, which, according to the Harbour Supervisor, currently by-pass Old Perlican because of its lack of available space.

The picture was taken from the east shore, on the part of land regained from the water, shows the general configuration.

NEW PERLICAN

2009 - Peter Plumb reports visiting this harbor; he found it a nice enough spot, with a good dock to tie to and a nice place to hike around the harbor."

LITTLE HEART'S EASE

2010 - Little Heart's Ease is very well protected anchorage. The owner of a private dock within the harbour may be able to rent you wharf space or a mooring.

IRELAND'S EYE

2010 - Antigone anchored in the narrows just east of the inner harbor in about 15'. "Despite a nasty blow we found it very secure and didn't drag at all."

2009 - From Peter Plumb: There are signs of a rebirth in Ireland's Eye: two small fishing cottages in good condition are there (one more than the Editors saw in 2007), and a longliner came in while we were anchored to deliver wood and windows for a third cottage now being built. Perhaps a new era of summer folks will make the place bustle again.

TRINITY HARBOUR

2010 - The Dock Marina rents space at the former public wharf, which is now in good condition, and also on a couple of small floating docks. The floating docks are more comfortable than the fixed wharf and have as much as 20 feet of water alongside.

2009 - From Peter Plumb: What is most compelling about Trinity is its setting. It is a large, serene harbor, with many arms and indentations - so one can be safe from almost any wind. As one enters the harbor, there is an almost endless row of craggy cliffs, and the government has now built a 5 km trail along the edge known as the Skerwink Loop Trail. Beautifully engineered with boardwalks and steep steps, with never-ending vistas of cliffs, ocean, and wild rock formations, it is justly known as one of the twenty or so top hikes in North America.

2009 - From Ted Laurentius: As for Trinity, there is a bit of sad news to report. The owner of Dock Marina, Art Andrews, lost his battle with cancer last fall and his boat has been sold. I don't know if there will be any tours next year. As far as I can tell, the marina and restaurant is for sale, so the future of the facility is somewhat up in the air at the moment. The wharf that was the "Public Wharf" has actually been owned by the marina for the last year or two and is therefore not public as such any more. The good news is that it has been upgraded since it became part of Art's place. The Village Inn is also for sale as the owner is in jail at the moment - long story. There are still some very good restaurants such as the Twine Loft.

While I was there I took the dinghy and did a complete recon of all the arms. About all I can add is that the NE corner of Southwest Arm looked very inviting, especially in a bit of a northerly wind. West Arm is definitely off limits and to be avoided.

CATALINA

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: Tying up alongside a fishing vessel at the floating dock was perfect. The Harbour Supervisor Bob (709-769-2422 & 709-468-4578) was very helpful.

BONAVISTA HARBOUR

2010 - The beautiful Garrick Theatre has been restored and reopened. Live performances, often with leading provincial musicians, are offered regularly during the summer.

2008 - From Jean Duquesne: When we were there mid-July, a new floating dock approximately 50 meters long had just been added, extending ESE from the Harbour Supervisor's office and forming a V with the existing one (see updated sketch showing new dock in red). A warm welcome was provided by Harbour Supervisor Jerry Mouland (709-468-1209 & 709-468-6564). Also worth mentioning: Wi-Fi Internet access is now available at the Harbour Supervisor's office.

SALTON'S WHARF at Terra Nova Park

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: The outside part of this L shaped wharf was undergoing repairs and was closed (July 2009), leaving very little opportunity to tie up in the inner part of the wharf where there is not much water (certainly less than the "good six feet" mentioned). But we managed it, which was really desirable with a 20 knot SW'ly, which made the outside of the wharf virtually untenable. However it would appear that repairs of the pier were really on their way; so hopefully it will be soon reusable. Dockage fee is now 0.90 Canadian Dollar per foot per night.

HAPPY ADVENTURE

2010 - There is a large new government wharf extending from the fish plant in the eastern arm. Inside the wharf you will be well protected. There is a new inn and restaurant on the hill above the plant.

SALVAGE

2010 - A walk to the old Orange Hall, now a pub and restaurant is well worth the effort.

ST. BRENDAN'S

on the east end Cottle Island - NEW - at 48° 52.33'N, 053° 39.82'W
2010 - It's a harbor of refuge if the wind is in the west, but somewhat exposed from all other directions. It's easily accessed with an "old government wharf".

FLAT ISLANDS

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: The "dock" marked on the sketch in the Guide and said to be (in 2006) "on its last legs" is definitely no longer safe for tying to. We anchored off this pier in some 15 meters depth without any holding problem (in light wind); notwithstanding the poor holding mentioned by the local resident.

SYDNEY COVE

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: Certainly the perfect anchorage!

GREENSPOND

2009 - From Peter Plumb: Greenspond has a beautiful boardwalk path all around the island and sports some of the best blueberry patches we've seen, including a profusion of raspberries and others unknown to us.

VALLEYFIELD

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: Every inch of wharf was occupied by fishing vessels but the floating dock mentioned was empty and provided excellent shelter in plenty of water.

LUMSDEN SOUTH

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: It appears that the sketch chart of the harbor plan in the Guide is upside down. Editors Note: This may be true, but it seems logical to show this plan as it appears upon entry.

SELDOM

2010 - Wesley Jones onboard Valiant: The manager of the Fisherman's Union Museum arranged for us to have an afternoon tour of the entire island, well worth the contribution to the Museum for she would accept no compensation.

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: The Fisherman's Union museum wharf and facilities are all that a boater could expect. The lady looking after the museum was kind enough to let us use her own computer from her office to get internet access.

MUSGRAVE

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: Teased by the last sentence of page 163, I went to see what the situation was in relation with the major overhaul mentioned. These works were far from complete by mid-July 2009. There were still substantial dredging operations under way (nearly totally blocking the harbor entrance). At the root of the pier which has been extended (at the right hand side when entering the harbour) there is a new wharf under construction, but mostly suited to longliners, as are all the other wharves in this harbor. Despite being tied in between two wharves at what appear to be the dock where the travel lift would pick up boats out of the water, we experienced quite a heavy swell - well down into the harbor, especially in the 25+ knot SE'ly. It is clear that this harbour will, even after the current overhaul, offer very limited shelter in easterly winds. Add to this that the last half of the harbor is very shallow; that the harbor's width is limited - at low tide, entering in an easterly blow pushing you from astern, there is really limited space to turn back on yourself. I would not recommend this as a desirable place under these circumstances, especially since Seldom is so close, so well protected, and so well suited to pleasure craft.

TWILLINGATE

2009 – From Steve & Sandi Swanson who left their boat over the winter: The yard is on the east side of Twillingate Island in small bay (Durell) and is called Twillingate Marine Service Center and the manager is Faron Clark.  "I wish my boat yard in Florida was as pleasant to deal with. The phone is 709 884 2528. As for cost, haul-out and building a substantial cradle was $1,200 Canadian and storage was $75 CA per month.  They have a 40 or 60 ton lift (cannot remember) but regularly haul fishing boats of 58 feet."

From Jean Duquesne: Internet Wi-Fi is now available at the Harbour Supervisor’s office - just bring your laptop and enjoy the very comfortable lounge.

From Stockton Smith: The piers at Twillingate have been extended and appear essentially brand new.  The fishing boats there were very active.

LEWISPORTE

2010 - There is a travelift available at the Yacht Club. The Old Mill Bistro in now closed.

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: The Lewisporte YC now provides free Internet Wi-Fi access. The Esso station mentioned on top of page 171 no longer refills propane bottles; however a dedicated refill station can be found further south, on a street on your right when going towards the Trans Canadian Highway, opposite to the main commercial center at the south exit of the town.

From Peter Watkins and Ted Laurentius: Lewisporte Marina is adding 25 new berths and a travel lift ramp. The travel lift should be in full operation for haul outs in 2010.

The Lewisporte Yacht Club has recently added day mooring to several areas in the Bay of Exploits.  Feel free to use these moorings.  The following is a list of the location of these moorings: Mussel Island, Michael’s Harbour, Job’s Cove, Sivier Island (one in north end of harbour another in south end of harbour), Knight’s Island (south end), Samson’s Island (3 moorings), Intricate Harbour, Swan Island – Boat Hrbour.

EXPLOITS

2010 - kelp can be certainly be found north of Gull Island.

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: Anchoring in Butt Cove (NW of the government wharf at Lacy Point) in some 5 meter depths is also a perfect place to stay (see photo below). The trail leading through the island to Surgeon Point is virtually no longer practicable, with lots of small trees having grown in the path which appears to be no longer in use by the locals, and certainly not maintained as a proper footpath. As for the note on top of page 175 mentioning that entrance from the north in Lower Harbour is a dangerous area, I would disagree - the approach itself is totally free of any hazard until you come to a group of two islands (which, until you reach them, appear to only form one island) in the middle of the entrance. This group of islands can be safely passed on either side but favour the south pass (wider and deeper) - there is plenty of water. Then you find yourself in the Lower Harbour itself and you can anchor in Arnold Cove forming the north part of the harbor, with a few summer camps on the shore, in some 5 to 10 meter depths. From Lower Harbour you can push further in through the 30 foot passage mentioned in the first paragraph of page 174 and reach the Upper Harbour.

LITTLE BAY ISLANDS

2009 – From Peter Plumb: This tiny community boasts a big public dock, with power, water, showers and a laundry, all at the dock. This is heaven for guys like us! All for a place now inhabited by 80 people year round, which swells to something over 100 in the summer. The school, which was built to house about 150 kids K-12 in the mid ‘80s, now has five students, three of whom are in the high school, one in grade 6 and one in grade 5. It sports two teachers and a principal. No younger kids in the town; so this school will close soon, even though it is an island outpost. The harbor is lovely, protected and serene. The local fish plant has operated sporadically this year, and is not open now (July 16). We had a lovely hike up to the local summit, where, standing on a picnic table, I was at last able to communicate with the outside world by cell phone, albeit weakly. The cruising guide talked about a new “inn” in town, and we found it quickly. This small old house has four rooms to rent, and a small restaurant which operates when called upon. The proprietors are a couple - she recently from Victoria, BC, and he a long-time Newfoundlander who is principally a musician/balladeer of Newfoundland shanties. Charlene cooked us the best restaurant meal we’ve had since coming to Newfoundland. She says business is ok but much slower than last year. But they are here for the long pull. And so it goes for this town – these folks are the best hope that something will survive, even if in altered form than heretofore. Uniformly they were wonderfully friendly and helpful, and we had a grand time in Little Bay Islands

TRITON ISLAND / SQUID COVE

The main harbor - 2010 There is a large, new wharf in the main community. Nearby are two grocery stores. Each has its own bakery and the smaller store sells beer.

2009 – From Peter Plumb: At the main harbor on Triton Island, Great Triton Harbour, look for Squid Cove where there is a brand new small municipal marina where the folks were very helpful. They directed our group to a 5 kilometer hike called "Maple Leaf Trail." The amazing thing about this trail, it is one long boardwalk with stairs up and down, along the coast and in and out of the forest, including graveled areas with picnic tables and grand vistas. The engineering cost to build this trail must have been enormous – we hope others enjoy it as much as we did.

PILLEY’S ISLAND

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: Pilley’s Island (not mentioned in the Guide) – 49° 30.2 N x 53° 43.6 W The harbor is easily reached from the south through Raft Tickle - the navigable channel heads north, leaving mussels farms on either side; leave all islands in the entrance to starboard. Heading straight north, there is a small government wharf on the east side of the western cove of the inner harbour, where one can anchor in some 10 meters of water (see picture). This place is protected from all winds. There is a grocery store up the hill across the western cove. There is also a trail leading to the top of the hill with a lookout platform.

LA SCIE

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: The entrance to the harbor is now between two breakwaters extending from each side of the harbor, before getting to the fish plant. On the east shore, there is a small wharf next to the breakwater. The last part of the L-shaped wharf at the fish plant has recently been extended.

FLEUR DE LYS

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: There was no sign of any fishing activity as of mid August. There is a decently stocked food store with an adjacent restaurant, up the hill from the main harbour wharf.

FOURCHE/WILLIAMSPORT

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: It’s not easy to figure out which houses are described as the line “not to be passed” for anchoring in Northeast Cove, since none of the houses are presently maintained. However, the rock garden further up north is clearly visible! Looking at the chart one might imagine there would be a decent anchorage at the top of the Northern Arm, I tried but there is clearly not enough room with the desired soundings. It should also be mentioned that we entered Fourche with a gentle southerly of some 15-20 knots but experienced much stronger winds inside with gusts up to 35 knots.

CONCHE

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: Docks have been reconfigured and one can access the innermost basin with 3 meters of water, however there is not much space to manoeuvre. Electricity is available on the docks, and a fisherman was kind enough to let us use the showers on board his vessel. Not far from the dock there is a B&B which also operates as a small restaurant.

From Peter Plumb: The B&B mentioned above (Conche Inn) is painted colorful West Indian colors (see picture) “Lots of enthusiasm and we were reasonably well fed.”

MAIDEN ARM (Hare Bay)

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: Absolutely perfect anchorage and perfect description of how to get there!

ST. ANTHONY

2010 - Wesley Jones onboard Valiant. The Vinland Motel has been closed for a number of years and seemed to have little prospect of reopening soon due to the economic conditions and competition from a new golfing-motel venture outside of town.

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: Both wharves mentioned in the Guide on the south shore were very busy with commercial activity. For the second one, the guide currently mentions “the outer face was used for loading and unloading coastal freighters, but they no longer operate”. However, there was a huge floating platform (towed by a big tug) full of piles of containers docked on its outer face, which virtually condemned any use of this wharf for pleasure craft. So we docked on the northern side alongside a fishing vessel. There is electricity on this dock but water was a problem since the line running along the dock was no longer operating and we had to get to the southernmost tip of the dock to eventually get access to a big water hose that had to be run across a big longliner.

GRIQUET

2009 – From Peter Plumb: The town has a nice dock in one of the most bucolic settings we have yet seen. Once plugged into the available electricity, it was a scramble up the local hill called “Camel’s Hump” to see the sights, which, in the setting sun, gave the impression of a near Shangri-La: rolling green hills and tundra, lakes and inlets, with the occasional iceberg grounded near shore.

QUIRPON TICKLE & HARBOUR

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: The clearance below the power line was not mentioned on my (electronic) chart but a neighbour sailboat in St Anthony has shown me a chart indicating 55 feet (far from the 70 feet claimed in the Guide). Taking into account that the clearance is the minimum height available in the centre of the line (at its lowest point) at high water, and as the passage is somewhat offset from this center (hence higher clearance), I was going through at low tide with a mast height of 57 feet and was clear of the line by some 2 to 3 meters. Altogether it makes me feel that the 55 feet that I had seen on a chart is more accurate than the 70 feet indicated Thus it is no surprise that Joyant hit the line with an antenna culminating at 67 feet.

Straits of Bell Isle

The current is very unpredictable with the current often running one way on the south side and the other direction on the opposite shore. Local say that depending on the wind direction the current could run east for a week at a time.

FLOWER’S COVE

2011 - Jack Towle: The entrance is easy if you follow instructions and buoy system. There is water available on the dock which was in good condition and the plant was open in 2011. When tying to the dock avoid the fish scaling machine on the south face of the dock or your boat will be covered in scales! The L and E restaurant, about a mile or a 15 minute walk up the hill - good basic food. There is room for one boat in the corner of the small boat anchorage but it is very limited.

2009 – From Peter Plumb: Flowers Cove is pretty bare: low and flat with the wind screeching across it. But it does have a lovely old Anglican church, whose construction about 100 years ago was largely funded by the local seal skin boot industry. It still has its original whale oil lamps in place. There are no more seal skins, and one wonders how many parishioners there are as well. From Stockton Smith: Flowers Cove was a perfect harbor of refuge with its high sided pier built with smooth plywood sides.  No need for fender boards.

PORT AUX CHOIX

2011 - Jack Towle: The town is still functioning well except it has lost about half of the residents due to the lack of work. Free showers and water are still available at the town wharf. The Anchor Restaurant is in full swing with good food. There is a taxi available for runs to the Foodland or picking up jerry jugs of fuel at the gas station. Taxi 709-861-2293

2009 – From Peter Plumb: We finished the day with a fine baked cod dinner at the Anchor Café, where we were treated to a variety of local lore and cuisine, capped off with the local favorite “Figgy-Duff.”

From Jean Duquesne: We tied to the floating dock extending at a right angle from the shore and were perfectly safe in 40 knots SW blowing outside. No electricity on this dock (but available at the main bulkhead wharf used by the fishing boats). In reality, the floating dock mentioned south of this main wharf is available for tying to, as the Coast Guard have now their own private floating dock just south of it, exactly between this floating dock and the one further south extending from the shore. Free internet Wi-Fi access is provided at the motel close to the harbor and they kindly let us sit in their lobby.

From Stockton Smith: In a strong 35+ knot northeast blow the entire harbor can be a bit choppy, albeit a whole lot safer than outside.  The leeward (harbor) side of the little floating dock next to the Coast Guard pier was occupied.  We took the windward side and used a long throw line to lead a docking line to the Coast Guard dock and set it up from there to our mid-ships port (outboard) side to relieve the pressure on our starboard fenders.  We rode out a nasty Nor’easter with no problem, but we kept someone on board to release the windward line in case the Coast Guard RIB needed to make a hasty departure.  Fortunately that didn't happen.

PORT SAUNDERS

2009 – From Peter Plumb: “ It is a busy town, with a huge fishing establishment, including a massive haul-out and fish unloading facility. Bohème parked right in the middle of it all, with huge fishing trawlers all around us on land and at the docks. We had a chance to talk to a number of the owners, fishermen and truck drivers. It is the last day of the capelin season, and thousands of tons of these tiny fish were being unloaded via suckers and shoots and conveyor belts. Huge trailer trucks were being loaded with fish, forklifts buzzing around like bees, and water and fish everywhere until at least 10 pm. It all looked very prosperous, although the fishermen unanimously complained that the price to them was much too low and that they were being screwed by the middlemen and brokers. What else is new! As I write this, a 200 ton travel lift is preparing to launch a 100 ft massively fitted out fishing boat capable of roaming the seas of the world for almost any kind of fish: the crew lives aboard pretty much year-round except for last winter when they were on the hard. About 8 pm a fuel truck rolled up to fuel a large boat headed out.”

COW HEAD

2011 - Jack Towle: well described in current guide- we entered from the south between Stearing Island and Cow Head. Pick up the greens and reds and follow until the harbour entrance is abeam - definite ledges visible at low water.

ROCKY HARBOR

2011 - Jack Towle: There is good protection inside government wharf.

2009 – From Peter Plumb: “We entered Bonne Bay and powered into Rocky Harbour for fuel and water at the town dock. It turned out there was neither, and we spent a couple of hours with a nice local lobsterman ferrying us back and forth in his pickup truck to the nearest gas station about a mile away, putting five gallon jerry jugs of diesel slowly into the fuel tank.”

NEDDY HARBOUR

2009 – From Peter Plumb: “Late in the afternoon we headed out to Neddy Harbour, up Bonne Bay, and spent the night in this gorgeous setting securely on a large mooring. I know this to be a fact because we went ashore to discuss the mooring situation at the nearest boat barn, where the owner was supposed to hang out. We found him, and five others, well into a case of beer and a bottle of moonshine, whooping it up on a Saturday evening. He said that the mooring had indeed been his until about a year ago, when he sold it for twelve bottles of beer. He pressed the moonshine on us and assured us that the mooring was just great - so far; so good. Neddy Harbour is a beautiful secure little place square in the middle of Gros Morne National Park. The hike up Gros Morne was one of those things that is hard in the doing, but so overwhelming in the seeing that the images will be with me forever. This is a true arctic alpine environment, with it’s strange and beautiful wildlife, fauna, and barren rock slides and piles interspersed with gorgeous alpine meadows, surrounded by the most lush and rugged ravines, gorges, cliffs , waterfalls and lakes, that your head just spins. Near the summit we found a pair of ptarmigans guarding a nest, and we gave them a good berth. An Arctic Rabbit showed up next. On the long way down, John scared up four big moose, two with large racks. My knees are going to be screaming for a week, but the 8 hours we spent high up in one of the most remote areas of the world will be with us forever.” Editors Note: Our knees are still on Gros Morne; if anyone finds them, would they please contact us.

WOODY POINT

2010 - Wesley Jones onboard Valiant: We tied alongside an ocean dragger at the government wharf (just north of the Woody Point Light), the wharf was entirely satisfactory. Darlene and Ken Thomas run the Lighthouse Restaurant and gift shop on Water Street (the main street) and have motel-style room for rent. A retired school teacher took us for an all day tour up to Cow Head and return, all though the Gros Morne National Park, a superb tour.

CORNER BROOK (Bay of Islands)

2009 – From Stockton Smith: “There is a note attributed to my Father, Newbold Smith, concerning wood chips emanating from the paper pulp plant in Corner Brook.  I have first-hand knowledge of my Dad’s comment; I was the skipper of Reindeer that summer (1974) when we suffered a complete, irreversible engine failure.  The entire Humber Arm is now completely and permanently free of all wood chips.  I confirmed this with three different local people who said that the plant had been required to install pollution control equipment some years ago to prevent any spillage.  The chips are now recycled into a combustion chamber to provide heat to the facility. 

ALLEN’S COVE MARINA (Bay of Islands)

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: Free internet Wi-Fi is now available.

LARK HARBOR

2011 - Jack Towle: The dock is beginning to deteriorate with little room due to fishing boats and shoaling inside of wharf. Government has made promises to rebuild pier, who knows. The locals suggested moving to Little Port.

LITTLE PORT

2011 - Jack Towle: New docks were recently constructed and are in excellent condition. The dock is in the shape of a "T". We tied at the end of the "T" and were quite comfortable. Space is limited due to the fishing boats. Do not consider this harbor if the wind is northwest. The entrance is actually quite simple once you get your bearings.

BEACH POINT

2011 - Jack Towle: We did not see the MOA buoy off Long Point either coming or going and assume that it is either missing or was removed. ? The harbour at Beach Point is well marked and with easy entrance but very little room inside. It's a welcome relief if headed north or south and the wind is on your nose (which it usually is!) There are a few fishing cottages.

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: There is no longer anyone living here permanently, although some of the cabins are still used as week-end or summer holiday retreats. In early September 2009, the flashing red buoy off the end of Long Point was not there.

CODROY

2011 - Jack Towle: the entrance is well marked however, there is a distinct dogleg to northwest after the last buoy which then brings you to the end of the break wall. At night or in fog this can be confusing especially with the bright floodlights on the break wall.

In 2011 there was extensive dredging under way and the possible reconstruction of the breakwater. Prior to this dredging, there is/was a bad shoal making out to the northwest from the breakwater.

In strong gales from the S/SW, waves break over the breakwater sometimes bringing good sized stones onto the breakwater and boats tied in the lee of the breakwater.

There is a small grocery store and restaurant - Le Café (quite good) about a 10 minute walk up the road to the SW. There is some cod, lobster and ground fishing going on with the quotas dictating the duration of the season. The fish plant is still in operation.

2011 - Trevor Robertson: General: Codroy Harbour is the only good all-weather harbour on the SW corner of Newfoundland and a useful port of refuge. There are 15 small communities scattered up the Codroy valley and a similar number of stores that sell everything from chainsaws to tombstones but only one general store within walking distance of the harbour. Fuel is not locally available but it may be possible to arrange delivery by truck from Port aux Basque. There is water and electricity on the dock and ice is available from the fish plant. Public internet access is at the school, about 10 km from the harbour.

In September 2011 harbour dues were $10/day, $15 if using electricity. The locals are friendly and there are a number of good walks, particularly along the coast to the Cape Aiguille lighthouse where the light keeper's house is now a restaurant. Approach: In good visibility the church is conspicuous from seaward and is a good steering mark when heading towards the fairway buoy which is red and white, Mo A. From the fairway buoy follow the buoyed channel eastwards towards the harbour between two pairs of red and green buoys. These buoys are lit but in September 2011 the outer green was extinguished. The buoyed channel is not in its charted position as shifting sand has changed the bathymetry in the approaches and in the inner harbour. Follow the buoyed channel, not the charted one. There was a least depth of 6m between the fairway buoy and the inner pair of channel markers in September 2011.

There is a shallow bar between the second (inner) pair of buoys and the breakwater consisting of several sand waves with a minimum depth of about 2.4m at low water springs in September 2011. The approaches were being dredged in September 2011 which should result in a deeper channel at least for a year or two. Shoals with less than 2m over them extend N from the spit on Codroy Island and out from the end of the breakwater. Neither is easy to see at high water. Proceed cautiously for the last 300m from the second pair of red/green buoys to the inner harbour, steering to pass 20m west of the outer end of the breakwater to avoid the sand and rock spit that extends a short way beyond the end of the breakwater.

Anchoring/Docking: The inner harbour is U-shaped. Dock anywhere convenient except in the NE corner which is reserved for unloading of fish. There is a minimum depth of about 2m against the face of any of the wharfs and 2.5m depth when 2m out from them where most yachts keels would be. The harbour is fairly busy and it may be necessary to raft to a fishing boat.

It should be possible to anchor is the entrance to the bight SW of the dock. Depths here will change as the dredging programme continues, so proceed with care. It is too shallow to anchor N of the dock.

Caution: The inside of the breakwater looks to be a convenient berth but is only tenable in good weather. It is exposed to any wind from the north and is dangerous in winds over 35 knots. Although the breakwater appears to be well protected from winds from the S, fishermen report that in a SE gale the sea breaks "20 ft high over her" and piles of rocks are thrown over the breakwater and would end up on the deck of a vessel lying there. Some of these rocks weigh over a kilgram. It would be dangerous to try to enter Codroy in a SE gale as the bar will probably break. This may change when dredging is completed.

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