Pilot Press - Cruising Guide to Newfoundland Updates

The current edition of the guide is dated April, 2009 and pages referenced in this update are from this edition.

Special Appeal for Future Updates
The editors of this guide, Doug & Dale Bruce, make a special appeal to all cruisers sailing to Newfoundland - PLEASE keep notes on your travels and send us updated information and pictures to our email (dougdaleb@earthlink.net) or snail mail address: PO Box 1112, Camden Maine 04843. Many thanks.

HARBOR UPDATES
Starting at the Southwest Coast, moving counter-clockwise around the island.

BURGEO, pages 19-22

2009 - June Hiscock, sister to "Burgeo Joe" Hiscock who used to run the Burgeo Marine Service Center, wrote recently to advise that the town is working on getting back the same friendly and useful services that were available just a few short years ago. They expect to renovate facilities including a laundry room that's not in the bathroom, a paved parking lot, and Internet access; so hopefully by summer 2010, the Burgeo Marine Service Centre, managed by Harbour Authority of Burgeo will be a pleasurable visit for all boaters.

June also suggests visitors should be sure to visit the Burgeo Museum, Maiden Tea Hill, and Sandbanks Provincial Park. You can call her at 709-886-2069 or write to P.O. Box 283, Burgeo, NL, A0N 2H0

RAMEA ISLANDS, pages 26-27

2009 - Blair Pyne reports there is now Internet service at the local school and at Eastern Outfitters. John Duquesne confirms that showers are available at the guesthouse.

FRANCOIS, page 38

2009 - There is now good Wi-Fi service available according to Ann & Brad Willauer.

NEW HARBOUR (PARSONS Hbr), page 41 under "Additional Anchorage"

2009 - According to Randell & Joan Pope who visited in 2008, there is good holding here and they found it to be an attractive and interesting area to explore with a cemetery containing well marked grave stones.

ROTI BAY IN BAY D'ESPOIR, page 54

2009 - For many years the Guide for Roti Bay has warned not to attempt to enter the inner cove northwest of Clay Hole. The late John McKelvy tried and ran aground with a 5.5' draft. In 2005 Walter Wales aboard La Mer entered the bay successfully with a 4"10" draft. In 2009 Blair Pyne on board Homarus with a 6'4" draft successfully entered the inner cove and anchored in 20 feet of water. He carried 10.5 feet an hour after high water and crossed the bar at 47 48.393N-055 53.632W. The salmon pens are still there but without nets.

FORTUNE, page 57

2009 - Peter Plumb aboard Bohème visited the Fortune Head Ecological Reserve near the lighthouse at Fortune Head to learn about the fossils in exposed rocks along the cliffs. They are of great interest because they are from the Precambrian-Cambrian periods which marked a fundamental change in Earth's geological history.

ST. PIERRE, page 79-82

2009 - Stockton Smith aboard Weather Gauge reports: I have sailed to St. Pierre for three years in a row and have always been mystified as to why the clothes dryer in the head at the yachting center takes darn near FOREVER to dry clothes. I finally did some detective work on the machine this summer and noticed that the hot dryer exhaust vents through an aperture in the side of the front wall directly to the right of the front door entrance to the shower/head area. The vent hole is protected by a plastic covering which contains a thick Styrofoam sphere which, by gravity, fits over and covers up the exhaust vent hole. It is designed to prevent cold air from entering the building through the dryer exhaust hose line when not in use. The problem is that the volume of exhaust air is not strong enough to fully push the sphere out of the way to allow unimpeded exhaust flow when the dryer is in use. I used a short stubby 3 inch pencil and wedged the sphere aside and "voila" the dryer functioned normally!

LAMALINE (Additional page before St. Lawrence, page 86)

2009 - Lamaline was dropped from the 2009 guide as we had not had reports of anyone entering this somewhat complicated harbor for many years. Last summer the yacht Vagrant (from the Royal Brussels Yacht Club) with Jean Duquesne skippering explored Lamaline and found a much improved situation. "This harbour has been reconfigured and a new sizeable pier has been built to protect the existing wharf in the SW corner of the basin (which is the NW corner of Allan's island). This provides excellent protection from all winds. The wharf location is somewhat remote from any facilities or community, but this harbour is definitely a stop to consider if you are facing strong adverse winds en route from Saint-Pierre to St Lawrence (or the other way round). The entrance is straightforward - once you have located the lighthouse on Bluff Head on the east coast of Allan's island; just follow the buoys paying some attention for the easily spotted rocks. Once past the entrance of the basin, water is flat no matter how hard it's blowing outside (at least with a strong easterly)."

BURIN, pages 88-90

2009 - Peter Plumb aboard Bohème circumnavigated Newfoundland last summer and here is some of what he has to say about Burin: "The entrance into the Burin area is about as lovely as it gets here - big hills and cliffs, small settlements on the surrounding islands, and finally the town proper area. We tied up at Ship Cove, once again the only sailboat in a fleet of fishing boats moored to the town pier. There was power, water, nice showers, and friendly people to help us get situated. We decided to go to the "entertainment" for the evening, which was a local singer and guitar player performing in what once had been a big bait shed at the waterfront (next to Coast Guard Search & Rescue Station), and now is part of a larger restoration effort going on in the town, much of it privately financed by a single resident. I made it my business to find someone who could show us around the next morning. In a minute we had hitched up with Merle and Diane, retired locals who offered to show us the sights. They picked us up, first to the lovely large old United Church, of which Merle is the treasurer. He let us in, and showed me the pipe organ, which was quite similar to the one from London at the church in Trinity, and in very good shape. I had a great half hour messing around on it, and was told that I made much more noise with it than any of the current organists who use it. Since no-one appeared to be using the pedals, I could understand why. Then we toured the local museum and historical house, had lunch at the local café, and headed on our way. We'd had a perfect morning in Burin."

Photo is of Peter Plumb playing the organ at United Church in Burin, one of more amazing places to visit in Placentia Bay.

MARYSTOWN/LITTLE BAY, page 91

2009 - In Little Bay, there are now two floating docks just south of the wharf, accessed from the wharf noted in the Guide, although they were fully occupied by local small crafts. From Jean Duquesne aboard Vagrant.

ODERIN, page 93

2009 - Anchoring in the inner harbour, we found much more water than mentioned in the Guide and recorded some 10 to 11 meter depth. From Jean Duquesne.

ARGENTIA, page 107

2009 - In Argentia at the site of the former US Naval Air Station, one must contact the Harbormaster if you want to tie up at the dock. Reach him via Placentia Radio (channel 16), or use his cell phone (709) 227-7240) There are plans to put an ice breaker on that dock , but there will still be room to tie up for crew changes. Wi-Fi, ATM, mailbox and a decent restaurant are in the ferry terminal that is open everyday.

Add Witless Head Bay to the Alternative Anchorages list. It is at the east end of the arm as you enter Argentia … a lovely sound with 20' of mud at the end; it is a gem. From Ann & Brad Willauer aboard Breezing Up. The chart shows the location:

PLACENTIA, page 108

2009 - From Ann & Brad Willauer: No matter what the Harbormaster says, the bridge is not passable. You must go to Argentia and come over to Placentia by cab ($13). The bridge was not operating - meaning it was very inconsistent in it's operation - it gets stuck with no warning; so you might get in, but not get out! Also the Placentia Harbormaster is apt to say everything is fine; only believe the Argentia Harbormaster.

ST. BRIDES, page 109

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: Some 5 kilometres east of the harbor, at the junction of the main road and the road leading to the St Mary's Ecological Reserve, there is a restaurant providing Wi-Fi internet access (bring your laptop): Gannet's Nest restaurant (709-227-4997). It was easy getting a ride back and forth between this place and the gas station close to the harbor.

FERRYLAND, page 117

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: The whole external part of the L shaped pier has collapsed into the sea and no longer exists, which makes tying up somewhat difficult since there is not much water alongside what is remaining. Ashore, we went to Ferryland Café & Gifts (709-432-2130), mid-way between the harbour and the supermarket at the top of the hill. They have special evenings with local musicians playing, serve limited food, and provide really warm welcome.

BAY BULLS, page 119

2009 - Peter Plumb reports: The impact of the oil money now flowing into NFLD is evident here. The double L shaped dock now has power and a large floating addition. The old government (navy) dock is now hugely expanded into a staging area for the oil rig industry and a large private dock for their big service vessels coming in. There are several tour boats running trips to the Witless Bay Preserve using other docks, and a dockside restaurant to boot. Change is coming in a big way to this part of Newfoundland.

ST. JOHN'S, page 121-123

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: We tied up at main pier (#8 on the chart) and had absolutely no fear of any crime related problems; we really felt safe all the time - even leaving the boat open and unattended. Surprisingly there are no showers facilities in such a big town. Editors Note: We believe that one of the smaller hotels might make shower facilities available at a fair price - ask at the local Visitor Information Centre at 348 Water Street.

Peter Plumb reports finding better water for drinking at the fishing boat service facilities on the east side of the harbor - ask the St. John's Port Authority at 1 Water Street for details.

Stockton Smith reports: The shoreside 30 amp electrical outlets along Pier 7 are provided by the Port Authority. The procedure is that an Authority employee unlocks the plug box, records the electrical meter reading and then locks the vessel's power cord into the box. This is all great unless one expects to depart during non-working hours. So be certain to make departure/payment/unplugging arrangements during business hours.

OLD PERLICAN, page 186

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: The passage south of Perlican Island is quite easy and safe - no real need for any buoys here This harbour has undergone major modifications, much more than the floating docks that were due to be added in 2009 and which indeed have been put in position. Two main sizeable wharfs have been added, extending from the main breakwater on the west side of the harbour - the first one in 2003 and the other one in 2008. They are both dedicated to longliners. The northern part of the harbour, described as a "rock garden" in the Guide, has been dredged and the rocks taken from there have been piled up to gain some land space recovered from the harbour, in the northeast area. From there, two parallel floating docks (approx. 50 meters long) have been added. Dredging is not yet complete in the northern section - the next step (in July 2009) was to complete the rock removal. The general idea is to convert this northern part with the two floating docks into a marina area for pleasure craft, which, according to the Harbour Supervisor, currently by-pass Old Perlican because of its lack of available space.

The picture was taken from the east shore, on the part of land regained from the water, shows the general configuration.

NEW PERLICAN, page 133

2009 - Peter Plumb reports visiting this harbor; he found it a nice enough spot, with a good dock to tie to and a nice place to hike around the harbor."

IRELAND'S EYE, pages 136-137

2009 - From Peter Plumb: There are signs of a rebirth in Ireland's Eye: two small fishing cottages in good condition are there (one more than the Editors saw in 2007), and a longliner came in while we were anchored to deliver wood and windows for a third cottage now being built. Perhaps a new era of summer folks will make the place bustle again.

TRINITY HARBOUR, pages 138-139

2009 - From Peter Plumb: What is most compelling about Trinity is its setting. It is a large, serene harbor, with many arms and indentations - so one can be safe from almost any wind. As one enters the harbor, there is an almost endless row of craggy cliffs, and the government has now built a 5 km trail along the edge known as the Skerwink Loop Trail. Beautifully engineered with boardwalks and steep steps, with never-ending vistas of cliffs, ocean, and wild rock formations, it is justly known as one of the twenty or so top hikes in North America.

From Ted Laurentius: As for Trinity, there is a bit of sad news to report. The owner of Dock Marina, Art Andrews, lost his battle with cancer last fall and his boat has been sold. I don't know if there will be any tours next year. As far as I can tell, the marina and restaurant is for sale, so the future of the facility is somewhat up in the air at the moment. The wharf that was the "Public Wharf" has actually been owned by the marina for the last year or two and is therefore not public as such any more. The good news is that it has been upgraded since it became part of Art's place. The Village Inn is also for sale as the owner is in jail at the moment - long story. There are still some very good restaurants such as the Twine Loft.

While I was there I took the dinghy and did a complete recon of all the arms. About all I can add is that the NE corner of Southwest Arm looked very inviting, especially in a bit of a northerly wind. West Arm is definitely off limits and to be avoided.

CATALINA, pages 140-141

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: Tying up alongside a fishing vessel at the floating dock was perfect. The Harbour Supervisor Bob (709-769-2422 & 709-468-4578) was very helpful.

BONAVISTA HARBOUR, pages 142-143

2008 - From Jean Duquesne: When we were there mid-July, a new floating dock approximately 50 meters long had just been added, extending ESE from the Harbour Supervisor's office and forming a V with the existing one (see updated sketch showing new dock in red). A warm welcome was provided by Harbour Supervisor Jerry Mouland (709-468-1209 & 709-468-6564). Also worth mentioning: Wi-Fi Internet access is now available at the Harbour Supervisor's office.

SALTON'S WHARF at Terra Nova Park, page 146

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: The outside part of this L shaped wharf was undergoing repairs and was closed (July 2009), leaving very little opportunity to tie up in the inner part of the wharf where there is not much water (certainly less than the "good six feet" mentioned). But we managed it, which was really desirable with a 20 knot SW'ly, which made the outside of the wharf virtually untenable. However it would appear that repairs of the pier were really on their way; so hopefully it will be soon reusable. Dockage fee is now 0.90 Canadian Dollar per foot per night.

FLAT ISLANDS, pages 150-151

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: The "dock" marked on the sketch in the Guide and said to be (in 2006) "on its last legs" is definitely no longer safe for tying to. We anchored off this pier in some 15 meters depth without any holding problem (in light wind); notwithstanding the poor holding mentioned by the local resident.

SYDNEY COVE, page 153

GREENSPOND, pages 156-157

2009 - From Peter Plumb: Greenspond has a beautiful boardwalk path all around the island and sports some of the best blueberry patches we've seen, including a profusion of raspberries and others unknown to us.

VALLEYFIELD, pages 156-157

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: Every inch of wharf was occupied by fishing vessels but the floating dock mentioned was empty and provided excellent shelter in plenty of water.

LUMSDEN SOUTH, pages 158-159

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: It appears that the sketch chart of the harbor plan in the Guide is upside down. Editors Note: This may be true, but it seems logical to show this plan as it appears upon entry.

SELDOM, page 162

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: The Fisherman's Union museum wharf and facilities are all that a boater could expect. The lady looking after the museum was kind enough to let us use her own computer from her office to get internet access.

FOGO HARBOUR, page 164

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: One big additional wharf is under construction, south of and parallel to the innermost current wharf. A floating dock extends from the root of this new wharf, parallel to it and even more inshore. See picture of the new wharf under construction, taken from the hill east of the harbour.

MUSGRAVE, page 163

2009 - From Jean Duquesne: Teased by the last sentence of page 163, I went to see what the situation was in relation with the major overhaul mentioned. These works were far from complete by mid-July 2009. There were still substantial dredging operations under way (nearly totally blocking the harbor entrance). At the root of the pier which has been extended (at the right hand side when entering the harbour) there is a new wharf under construction, but mostly suited to longliners, as are all the other wharves in this harbor. Despite being tied in between two wharves at what appear to be the dock where the travel lift would pick up boats out of the water, we experienced quite a heavy swell - well down into the harbor, especially in the 25+ knot SE'ly. It is clear that this harbour will, even after the current overhaul, offer very limited shelter in easterly winds. Add to this that the last half of the harbor is very shallow; that the harbor's width is limited - at low tide, entering in an easterly blow pushing you from astern, there is really limited space to turn back on yourself. I would not recommend this as a desirable place under these circumstances, especially since Seldom is so close, so well protected, and so well suited to pleasure craft.

TWILLINGATE, page 167

2009 – From Steve & Sandi Swanson who left their boat over the winter: The yard is on the east side of Twillingate Island in small bay (Durell) and is called Twillingate Marine Service Center and the manager is Faron Clark. “I wish my boat yard in Florida was as pleasant to deal with. The phone is 709 884 2528. As for cost, haul-out and building a substantial cradle was $1,200 Canadian and storage was $75 CA per month. They have a 40 or 60 ton lift (cannot remember) but regularly haul fishing boats of 58 feet.”

From Jean Duquesne: Internet Wi-Fi is now available at the Harbour Supervisor’s office - just bring your laptop and enjoy the very comfortable lounge.

From Stockton Smith: The piers at Twillingate have been extended and appear essentially brand new. The fishing boats there were very active.

LEWISPORTE, pages 170-172

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: The Lewisporte YC now provides free Internet Wi-Fi access. The Esso station mentioned on top of page 171 no longer refills propane bottles; however a dedicated refill station can be found further south, on a street on your right when going towards the Trans Canadian Highway, opposite to the main commercial center at the south exit of the town.

From Peter Watkins and Ted Laurentius: Lewisporte Marina is adding 25 new berths and a travel lift ramp. The travel lift should be in full operation for haul outs in 2010.

The Lewisporte Yacht Club has recently added day mooring to several areas in the Bay of Exploits. Feel free to use these moorings. The following is a list of the location of these moorings: Mussel Island, Michael’s Harbour, Job’s Cove, Sivier Island (one in north end of harbour another in south end of harbour), Knight’s Island (south end), Samson’s Island (3 moorings), Intricate Harbour, Swan Island – Boat Hrbour.

EXPLOITS, page 174

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: Anchoring in Butt Cove (NW of the government wharf at Lacy Point) in some 5 meter depths is also a perfect place to stay (see photo below). The trail leading through the island to Surgeon Point is virtually no longer practicable, with lots of small trees having grown in the path which appears to be no longer in use by the locals, and certainly not maintained as a proper footpath. As for the note on top of page 175 mentioning that entrance from the north in Lower Harbour is a dangerous area, I would disagree - the approach itself is totally free of any hazard until you come to a group of two islands (which, until you reach them, appear to only form one island) in the middle of the entrance. This group of islands can be safely passed on either side but favour the south pass (wider and deeper) - there is plenty of water. Then you find yourself in the Lower Harbour itself and you can anchor in Arnold Cove forming the north part of the harbor, with a few summer camps on the shore, in some 5 to 10 meter depths. From Lower Harbour you can push further in through the 30 foot passage mentioned in the first paragraph of page 174 and reach the Upper Harbour.

LITTLE BAY ISLANDS, page 179-180

2009 – From Peter Plumb: This tiny community boasts a big public dock, with power, water, showers and a laundry, all at the dock. This is heaven for guys like us! All for a place now inhabited by 80 people year round, which swells to something over 100 in the summer. The school, which was built to house about 150 kids K-12 in the mid ‘80s, now has five students, three of whom are in the high school, one in grade 6 and one in grade 5. It sports two teachers and a principal. No younger kids in the town; so this school will close soon, even though it is an island outpost. The harbor is lovely, protected and serene. The local fish plant has operated sporadically this year, and is not open now (July 16). We had a lovely hike up to the local summit, where, standing on a picnic table, I was at last able to communicate with the outside world by cell phone, albeit weakly. The cruising guide talked about a new “inn” in town, and we found it quickly. This small old house has four rooms to rent, and a small restaurant which operates when called upon. The proprietors are a couple - she recently from Victoria, BC, and he a long-time Newfoundlander who is principally a musician/balladeer of Newfoundland shanties. Charlene cooked us the best restaurant meal we’ve had since coming to Newfoundland. She says business is ok but much slower than last year. But they are here for the long pull. And so it goes for this town – these folks are the best hope that something will survive, even if in altered form than heretofore. Uniformly they were wonderfully friendly and helpful, and we had a grand time in Little Bay Islands

TRITON ISLAND / SQUID COVE, page 181

2009 – From Peter Plumb: At the main harbor on Triton Island, Great Triton Harbour, look for Squid Cove where there is a brand new small municipal marina where the folks were very helpful. They directed our group to a 5 kilometer hike called “Maple Leaf Trail.” The amazing thing about this trail, it is one long boardwalk with stairs up and down, along the coast and in and out of the forest, including graveled areas with picnic tables and grand vistas. The engineering cost to build this trail must have been enormous – we hope others enjoy it as much as we did.

PILLEY’S ISLAND, page 181 (Additional Harbor)

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: Pilley’s Island (not mentioned in the Guide) – 49° 30.2 N x 53° 43.6 W The harbor is easily reached from the south through Raft Tickle - the navigable channel heads north, leaving mussels farms on either side; leave all islands in the entrance to starboard. Heading straight north, there is a small government wharf on the east side of the western cove of the inner harbour, where one can anchor in some 10 meters of water (see picture). This place is protected from all winds. There is a grocery store up the hill across the western cove. There is also a trail leading to the top of the hill with a lookout platform.

LA SCIE, page 183

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: The entrance to the harbor is now between two breakwaters extending from each side of the harbor, before getting to the fish plant. On the east shore, there is a small wharf next to the breakwater. The last part of the L-shaped wharf at the fish plant has recently been extended.

FLEUR DE LYS, page 186

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: There was no sign of any fishing activity as of mid August. There is a decently stocked food store with an adjacent restaurant, up the hill from the main harbour wharf.

FOURCHE/WILLIAMSPORT, pages 190-91

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: It’s not easy to figure out which houses are described as the line “not to be passed” for anchoring in Northeast Cove, since none of the houses are presently maintained. However, the rock garden further up north is clearly visible! Looking at the chart one might imagine there would be a decent anchorage at the top of the Northern Arm, I tried but there is clearly not enough room with the desired soundings. It should also be mentioned that we entered Fourche with a gentle southerly of some 15-20 knots but experienced much stronger winds inside with gusts up to 35 knots.

CONCHE, pages 193

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: Docks have been reconfigured and one can access the innermost basin with 3 meters of water, however there is not much space to manoeuvre. Electricity is available on the docks, and a fisherman was kind enough to let us use the showers on board his vessel. Not far from the dock there is a B&B which also operates as a small restaurant.

From Peter Plumb: The B&B mentioned above (Conche Inn) is painted colorful West Indian colors (see picture) “Lots of enthusiasm and we were reasonably well fed.”

MAIDEN ARM (Hare Bay), page 197

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: Absolutely perfect anchorage and perfect description of how to get there!

ST. ANTHONY, pages 198-199

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: Both wharves mentioned in the Guide on the south shore were very busy with commercial activity. For the second one, the guide currently mentions “the outer face was used for loading and unloading coastal freighters, but they no longer operate”. However, there was a huge floating platform (towed by a big tug) full of piles of containers docked on its outer face, which virtually condemned any use of this wharf for pleasure craft. So we docked on the northern side alongside a fishing vessel. There is electricity on this dock but water was a problem since the line running along the dock was no longer operating and we had to get to the southernmost tip of the dock to eventually get access to a big water hose that had to be run across a big longliner.

GRIQUET, page 201

2009 – From Peter Plumb: The town has a nice dock in one of the most bucolic settings we have yet seen. Once plugged into the available electricity, it was a scramble up the local hill called “Camel’s Hump” to see the sights, which, in the setting sun, gave the impression of a near Shangri-La: rolling green hills and tundra, lakes and inlets, with the occasional iceberg grounded near shore.

QUIRPON TICKLE & HARBOUR, pages 203-204

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: The clearance below the power line was not mentioned on my (electronic) chart but a neighbour sailboat in St Anthony has shown me a chart indicating 55 feet (far from the 70 feet claimed in the Guide). Taking into account that the clearance is the minimum height available in the centre of the line (at its lowest point) at high water, and as the passage is somewhat offset from this center (hence higher clearance), I was going through at low tide with a mast height of 57 feet and was clear of the line by some 2 to 3 meters. Altogether it makes me feel that the 55 feet that I had seen on a chart is more accurate than the 70 feet indicated Thus it is no surprise that Joyant hit the line with an antenna culminating at 67 feet.

FLOWER’S COVE, page 208

2009 – From Peter Plumb: Flowers Cove is pretty bare: low and flat with the wind screeching across it. But it does have a lovely old Anglican church, whose construction about 100 years ago was largely funded by the local seal skin boot industry. It still has its original whale oil lamps in place. There are no more seal skins, and one wonders how many parishioners there are as well. From Stockton Smith: Flowers Cove was a perfect harbor of refuge with its high sided pier built with smooth plywood sides. No need for fender boards.

PORT AUX CHOIX, pages 211-212

2009 – From Peter Plumb: We finished the day with a fine baked cod dinner at the Anchor Café, where we were treated to a variety of local lore and cuisine, capped off with the local favorite “Figgy-Duff.”

From Jean Duquesne: We tied to the floating dock extending at a right angle from the shore and were perfectly safe in 40 knots SW blowing outside. No electricity on this dock (but available at the main bulkhead wharf used by the fishing boats). In reality, the floating dock mentioned south of this main wharf is available for tying to, as the Coast Guard have now their own private floating dock just south of it, exactly between this floating dock and the one further south extending from the shore. Free internet Wi-Fi access is provided at the motel close to the harbor and they kindly let us sit in their lobby.

From Stockton Smith: In a strong 35+ knot northeast blow the entire harbor can be a bit choppy, albeit a whole lot safer than outside. The leeward (harbor) side of the little floating dock next to the Coast Guard pier was occupied. We took the windward side and used a long throw line to lead a docking line to the Coast Guard dock and set it up from there to our mid-ships port (outboard) side to relieve the pressure on our starboard fenders. We rode out a nasty Nor’easter with no problem, but we kept someone on board to release the windward line in case the Coast Guard RIB needed to make a hasty departure. Fortunately that didn't happen.

PORT SAUNDERS, page 213

2009 – From Peter Plumb: “ It is a busy town, with a huge fishing establishment, including a massive haul-out and fish unloading facility. Bohème parked right in the middle of it all, with huge fishing trawlers all around us on land and at the docks. We had a chance to talk to a number of the owners, fishermen and truck drivers. It is the last day of the capelin season, and thousands of tons of these tiny fish were being unloaded via suckers and shoots and conveyor belts. Huge trailer trucks were being loaded with fish, forklifts buzzing around like bees, and water and fish everywhere until at least 10 pm. It all looked very prosperous, although the fishermen unanimously complained that the price to them was much too low and that they were being screwed by the middlemen and brokers. What else is new! As I write this, a 200 ton travel lift is preparing to launch a 100 ft massively fitted out fishing boat capable of roaming the seas of the world for almost any kind of fish: the crew lives aboard pretty much year-round except for last winter when they were on the hard. About 8 pm a fuel truck rolled up to fuel a large boat headed out.”

ROCKY HARBOR, page 218

2009 – From Peter Plumb: “We entered Bonne Bay and powered into Rocky Harbour for fuel and water at the town dock. It turned out there was neither, and we spent a couple of hours with a nice local lobsterman ferrying us back and forth in his pickup truck to the nearest gas station about a mile away, putting five gallon jerry jugs of diesel slowly into the fuel tank.”

NEDDY HARBOUR, page 217

2009 – From Peter Plumb: “Late in the afternoon we headed out to Neddy Harbour, up Bonne Bay, and spent the night in this gorgeous setting securely on a large mooring. I know this to be a fact because we went ashore to discuss the mooring situation at the nearest boat barn, where the owner was supposed to hang out. We found him, and five others, well into a case of beer and a bottle of moonshine, whooping it up on a Saturday evening. He said that the mooring had indeed been his until about a year ago, when he sold it for twelve bottles of beer. He pressed the moonshine on us and assured us that the mooring was just great - so far; so good. Neddy Harbour is a beautiful secure little place square in the middle of Gros Morne National Park. The hike up Gros Morne was one of those things that is hard in the doing, but so overwhelming in the seeing that the images will be with me forever. This is a true arctic alpine environment, with it’s strange and beautiful wildlife, fauna, and barren rock slides and piles interspersed with gorgeous alpine meadows, surrounded by the most lush and rugged ravines, gorges, cliffs , waterfalls and lakes, that your head just spins. Near the summit we found a pair of ptarmigans guarding a nest, and we gave them a good berth. An Arctic Rabbit showed up next. On the long way down, John scared up four big moose, two with large racks. My knees are going to be screaming for a week, but the 8 hours we spent high up in one of the most remote areas of the world will be with us forever.” Editors Note: Our knees are still on Gros Morne; if anyone finds them, would they please contact us.

CORNER BROOK (Bay of Islands), page 221

2009 – From Stockton Smith: “There is a note attributed to my Father, Newbold Smith, concerning wood chips emanating from the paper pulp plant in Corner Brook. I have first-hand knowledge of my Dad’s comment; I was the skipper of Reindeer that summer (1974) when we suffered a complete, irreversible engine failure. The entire Humber Arm is now completely and permanently free of all wood chips. I confirmed this with three different local people who said that the plant had been required to install pollution control equipment some years ago to prevent any spillage. The chips are now recycled into a combustion chamber to provide heat to the facility.

ALLEN’S COVE MARINA (Bay of Islands), page 221

BEACH POINT, pages 224-225

2009 – From Jean Duquesne: There is no longer anyone living here permanently, although some of the cabins are still used as week-end or summer holiday retreats. In early September 2009, the flashing red buoy off the end of Long Point was not there.

The Cruising Guide to Newfoundland

Updates from 2009

HARBOR UPDATESStarting at the Southwest Coast, moving counter-clockwise around the island.