The Cruising Guide to Newfoundland
Updates from 2005-2007
The current edition of the guide is dated March, 2005 and pages referenced in this update are from this edition.
Special Appeal for Future Updates
The new editors of this guide, Doug & Dale Bruce, want to make a special appeal to all visitors to Newfoundland - to PLEASE keep notes on your travels and send us updated information and pictures at our email (dougdaleb@earthlink.net) or snail mail address: PO Box 1112, Camden Maine 04843. Many thanks.
Books
Three new general interest books that provide further insight into Newfoundland and its colorful residents are suggested:
- "The Iambics of Newfoundland: Notes from an Unknown Shore" by Robert Finch
- "The Custodians of Paradise" by Wayne Johnston is a follow-up to his very readable novel about the Joey Smallwood era, "The Colony of Unrequited Dreams"
- "Bay of Spirits - A Love Story" by Farley Mowat
The Lewisporte and Area Chamber of Commerce in cooperation with members of the Lewisporte Yacht Club have created "Notre Dame Bay Cruising Guide" For anyone intending to explore this superb cruising area in any depth, this book is highly recommended. It is available at Landfall Navigation (http://www.landfallnav.com/)
A historical novel of possible interest is "The Colony of Unrequited Dreams" by Wayne Johnston printed by Doubleday in 1999. It's the story of Newfoundland and Joe Smallwood, the first premier of the province of Newfoundland. ISBN 0-385-49542-0
Web Sites
Several new web sites worth exploring:
- Royal Newfoundland Yacht Club's site describing a very visitor friendly facility near St. John's. The list below provided by RNYC links to other clubs and marina facilities around the Newfoundland coast:
- List of Newfoundland's Harbour Authorities - much useful information including of name each harbor supervisor and his/her phone number.
- List of harbors with aerial photographs.
- http://www.charts.gc.ca/pub/en/products/ Canadian Hydrographic Service products, publications and related services, including:
- Canadian Marine Weather site allowing choice of wide range local forecasts.
- Flanker Press is a small Newfoundland publishing house that publishes books primarily on Newfoundland. If you're going into iceberg territory you might want ICEBERGS of Newfoundland and Labrador. This is a useful field guide to icebergs, in its fifth edition.
Port aux Basques, page 1
2007 - Two new extended floating docks are positioned to the left of the larger fixed wharves and provide tie-up for smaller vessels. Caution in this area is suggested as depths are uncertain, although we know of several mid-size sailboats that have tied comfortably to the outer sections of the floating docks. – Doug & Dale Bruce aboard Bluewater
2005 - The photo is of Entry Island at the entrance of Port aux Basque with its light, racon and fog signal. Photo by Jim Hawkins
Isle aux Morts, page 4
2006 - Malcom MacNaught onboard Somerled:
To the north of the now closed fish plant is a marine service center with travel lifts. The public wharf to the north of the service center is about 150 feet long, where one can lie. There is a convenience store on the main road and several other convenience stores and a post office in town. (The Foodland store is no longer).
Rose Blanch, page 6
2006 - Liz and Pat onboard Catspaw: The fish plant in the cove west of town is now closed permanently.
Petites, page 9
2005 - Both John Trainer and Jim Hawkins report three or four summer residents were living here with no services for them. In 1986 there was a population of 102 persons.
The photo of Petites, taken by Jim Hawkins, is looking out the entrance. The first dock in has been condemned, while the second dock is OK. Petites remains beautiful.
La Poil Bay, page 16
2005 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog: We anchored in the small bay behind Pig Island. Buoyed fishnets were in the shallows off Pig Island so all we had to do was dodge around them to find the deeper water. The pool to the south of Pig Island is considerably larger than where we anchored. At high tide one can take a dinghy right into the pool, but as the tide drops the narrows becomes a reversing falls with considerable energy. Within the pool there are large and delicious muscles.
2005 - Doug and Dale Bruce onboard Bluewater: The old government wharf on the south side of the harbor is still serviceable and offers a quiet, secure spot to tie up in any conditions except perhaps a really strong NE'er.
Burgeo, page 24
2007 - The old Marine Service Center formerly run by Joe Hiscock is now being run by town officials for the benefit of local fishing boats. While visiting boats can still tie-up, no services (water, showers, etc.) are available. The Coast Guard Search & Rescue service has moved into its new compound across from the old fish factory. With a chain link fence all around, it does not appear to be the friendly facility it used to be when located nearer the Marine Service Center. Dockage is still possible at the old fish factory, although the wharves continue to worsen through lack of upkeep. And the anchorage in the Long Reach continues to be the most attractive and sheltered spot among the available choices close to town. – Doug & Dale Bruce
2005 - Doug and Dale Bruce onboard Bluewater: The marine center has changed hands, Joe Hiscock has sold out to the local government. The shower/laundry room was not open when we were there. The Coast Guard Station is moving to a new facility in Short Reach
Mosquito Harbor, page 35
2007 - While we would not change the current description of this little harbor, we did enter quite comfortably in fog; found the area very attractive with much less fog inside and the anchorage nearly under the waterfall very soothing on a settled night. One can also hike the edges of the waterfall and find classically beautiful Newfoundland scenery upstream. For those wanting a little isolation, Mosquito Harbor fits the bill very nicely. – Doug & Dale Bruce
Gray River, page 37
2006 - Liz and Pat onboard Catspaw: Our GPS reading put us half a mile east of the entrance.
Aviron Bay, page 40
2007 - Although the current write-up mentions possible silting up from the two major streams entering the inner pool, we are convinced that the shoaling is in fact significant as one gets more than 1/2 of the way in – we found less than 10 feet at mid-tide. Ditto within a 50-yard radius of the base of the big waterfall. Nonetheless, one cannot find a more dramatic spot on the South Coast; so do not pass Aviron by; just use a little good judgment. – Doug & Dale Bruce
Francois, page 41
2007 - A new floating finger pier has been added near the launching ramp near the head of the harbor, slightly to the right. It offers deep water tie-up and easy access to the village and its friendly residents. The same embarrassingly modest dockage fees apply – same as previous years. – Doug & Dale Bruce
2006 - Liz and Pat onboard Catspaw: The two small general stores are no longer well stocked; one has a limited supply of liquor. Ice is no longer available; gas and diesel are.
Devil Bay, page 44
2007 - Entered this bay for the first time and found it breathtakingly beautiful – well worth a visit. Although we did not anchor, doing so seems possible near the waterfall to starboard or at the head of the harbor where the stream enters the bay -- watch for rapidly shoaling water, however. – Doug & Dale Bruce
Hare Bay, page 47
2007 - Still rates as one of our favorites – unbelievable scenery and a very good anchorage. On the directions for entering Sandy Point, the red fishing shack noted is no longer visible, but the caution about giving Sandy Point a very wide berth is sound advice. The anchorage inside has plenty of depth and getting around the point is not so scary as the chart looks and the description sounds – well worth the extra effort. – Doug & Dale Bruce
2006 - Malcom MacNaught onboard Somerled: In the Northwest Arm, if you go further in than Sandy Point the water depths of 11 feet were measured in the middle at low tide.
McCallum, page 51
2007 - Rigg’s store on the wharf was closed in 2007, but Fudge’s Store up the hill is open, and has a broad selection of essentials, including alcoholic beverages. Terry McDonald, local harbor supervisor, and his charming wife Margaret still give a most gracious and helpful welcome. They are likely to offer a meal at their home and/or laundry service, but one should remember that, as with most Outport residents, they really cannot afford to do this and we would encourage visiting boats to help these nice folks in any way you deem appropriate. Your generosity will be repaid many times over. –Doug & Dale Bruce
2005 - Doug and Dale Bruce onboard Bluewater: Fuel is no longer available here. If a rare easterly blow is forecast, you'd best move off the dock and look for a better anchorage.
Sam Hitches Harbour, page 63
2006 - Coryn and Tony Gooch onboard Taonui: There is no longer any aquaculture activity to spoil this most beautiful harbour.
Pass Island, page 65
2007 - The red buoy to the west of the shoals off Pass Island Light was not on station in 2007, and, if replaced, is likely not to stay on station very long, as this can be a rough patch of water. The overhead wires from mainland to the island remain in place per the charts; so use caution if attempting the shortcut. – Doug & Dale Bruce
Harbour Breton, page 66
2006 - Coryn and Tony Gooch onboard Taonui: Propane refill and diesel (bring your own jugs) is available from the gas station 500 yards south of the bridge and a short walk up to the main road. Internet accwss is in the library at the King School, its closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Northeast Arm (near Harbour Breton), page 69
2007 - Still as beautiful as they come but watch for aquaculture along the shoreline; not a threat if you stay to the middle. We always find the upper/inner pool at Balden’s Cove to a peaceful paradise, but, as with any fjord along this coast, it no doubt has its moments. – Doug & Dale Bruce
Grand Bank, page 79
2007 - The town has added a Fisherman’s Memorial to those lost at sea. It is a particularly beautiful sculpture in a lovely setting near the town wharves. Exhibits at the old Bait House, along with a fabulous mural on its outer wall, make Grand Bank an even more attractive option with its well sheltered, man-made harbor. Harbour Supervisor George Snook gives a grand welcome to all cruising sailors and his small office offers superb showers for a modest price and hopefully in 2008 internet Wi-Fi service at the wharf. –Doug & Dale Bruce
2006 - Liz and Pat onboard Catspaw: They have wireless internet at the library. There are excellent showers and laundry facilities located in the harbor masters office. The Harbor Master, George Snook, indicates one can clear through Customs at Grand Bank, instead of going to Fortune, for no extra charge. (One might check with Customs about this first).
Fortune, page 81
2005 - Jim Hawkins aboard Meta Fog: The first dock you come to in the marina has deep water along both sides for several boat lengths. Both water and electricity are available on the dock. Showers, heads and laundry are a hike, but very nice. The ferry to St. Pierre was $85.00cn round trip. A high-speed catamaran ferry was running in 2005 in addition to the old ferry.
2006 - Coryn and Tony Gooch onboard Taonui: The Fortune Head Ecological Reserve is one of the most important geological sites in the world and provides a basis for dating evolution.
Miquelon Harbor, page 83
2005 - Bill Cook onboard Resolution: The aquaculture operation is still there and quite large and definitely a hazard. There is a wide clear channel, centered on the entrance buoy that bears about 90 degrees magnetic from the harbor. There is a small bus that tours the isthmus to Langlade. Visit the tourist office in town for the schedule. It's recommended for the scenery is quite varied, from beaches and dunes on the isthmus, to woods and streams on Langlade.
St. Pierre, page 85
2007 - The red whistle buoy “Cap Coupe” noted in the current APPROACHES write-up is still “off station” and has probably been discontinued.
The Yachting Center has raised its prices for dockage – expect to pay 4 Euros per meter per night; however, the facility’s washrooms are worth the price of admission alone – none better anywhere!. Restaurants in St. Pierre remain the town’s key attraction. LaVoilerie has become the acknowledged “best” and Hotel Robert is now offering non-resident guests a simple breakfast and luncheon menu; dinners are still primarily for residents. A new tour of Langlade and Miquelon offered by Junot was available in 2007 (check with Tourist Office). First hand experience makes this a highly recommended approach to seeing these island rather than taking the cat ferry or sailing there yourself. The ladies found Junot himself to be one of the principle attractions! -- Dale (& Doug) Bruce
2006 - Coryn and Tony Gooch onboard Taonui: Showers, washing and drying machines have been relocated to the south side of the Yachting Center building and their use is included in the docking fee. Internet access, including wifi, is available on the second floor. Docking fee is now Euro 2.50 per meter. L'Arche museum, the large building to the SE and up the hill from the Yachting Center is well worth a visit.
Customs Procedures for Returning to Canada, page 87
2007 - While one must still check into Canada after leaving St. Pierre (assuming a Canadian destination), and Fortune is the closest town with a Customs Office, the officials there (709-832-2000), offered us another option, which was to call into CANPASS (1-888-226-7277) upon arrival at Grand Bank. While we stated and in fact were in compliance with the current allowances for importing alcoholic beverages (1 liter of hard liquor, OR, 2 liters of wine per person, etc., we were not inspected in person. -- Doug & Dale Bruce
Burin, page 92
2007 - The docks in Ship Cove are now more inviting and well managed by Marguerite Drake, Harbour Supervisor. Showers are available and an expansion of the docks is tentatively planned for 2008, including a possible move of the Coast Guard Search & Rescue Station plus a new breakwater. Other good reason for putting this town on your agenda is the availability of competitively priced fuel from the nearby Ultramar dealer whose house and truck is at the head of the dock. Also, the local residents couldn’t be more friendly or accommodating – we were offered tours, car rides and great stories by a variety of working and retired fishers. And the town has a new restaurant, gift shop and expanded museum facilities thanks to the Burin Heritage & Tourism Association – all worth your time. – Doug & Dale Bruce
2005 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog: Several rusting hulks are still tied to the fish processing plant in Burin Harbor. Apparently the fish processing plant now does final processing of fish for McDonalds and other retailers. The initial processing of fish is done in China! The fish is then frozen in large cubes and shipped to Burin for the last step before heading to the retail stores.
There is a like new wharf in Ship Harbour, which is very well protected and an extension to that wharf is under construction.
Trepassey Harbour, page 111
2007 - The two docks described in the current edition -- public wharf on east side and the old fish plant wharves -- remain serviceable despite ongoing absence of repairs. The former is good in settled weather and closer to town; the latter favored for unsettled situations when swells might come up the main channel. Only one small general store remains open; most locals drive elsewhere for their major shopping trips. The Trepassey Motel, a short walk from the public wharf, offers quality Newfoundland fare three times daily. We can recommend it having eaten there several times. If you can twist someone’s arm to drive you, the tourist exhibits at Portugal Cove and Cape Race Lighthouse are very worthwhile. And if you meet anyone with the last name of Ryan, you will have met this town’s finest. We attended a Ryan BBQ (can’t remember how many days it lasted) and were treated like a valued members of the family. –Doug & Dale Bruce
2005 - Alexander Weld onboard Windigo: The deck of the wharf at the abandoned fish plant, to the west of Meadow Point, was new in 2002. The whole wharf was in good condition in 2005. The face of the wharf runs basically east and west. The water shallows rapidly at the eastern end of the wharf. The fish plant buildings are deteriorating. However there are two new buildings/businesses on the location, one started up in 2002 and makes dental equipment the other is a marine lighting company. Fuel will be delivered by truck.
Fermeuse, page 114
2007 - Fermeuse is considered by those who often traverse the Avalon coastline as the harbor offering the best protection in an area noted for its treacherous weather. We waited out a gale tied to the new wharf just completed behind (west of Sheep’s Head). While gusts outside reportedly exceeded 40 knots, we experienced gusts to just 17 knots tucked in close to this new wharf. – Doug & Dale Bruce
Avalon Coast from Ferryland north to Witless Bay, Bay Bulls, pages 116-117
2007 - Sailing along this coast on a clear day can be one of the highlights of cruising Newfoundland -- the wildlife (whales and sea birds) is absolutely phenomenal. By staying close inshore – actually inside the islands of Great, Green and Gull, one will see more indigenous creatures than you are likely to believe possible. Not to be missed. – Doug & Dale Bruce
2005 – Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog: The fish plant in Lumley Cove was closed in 1992, but can be busy now with shrimp and crab boats in season. Part of the building is being converted to a cold storage facility. Ice and water are available and diesel will be delivered by truck. The Marine Center at the head of the harbor has a 100-ton travel lift. The “good grocery store”, described in the guide, is in fact a convince store.
Motion Bay/Petty Harbour, page 118
2005 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog: The ledges outside the harbor are now marked with lighted red and green buoys, making entering "easy". The sinking northern breakwater still slopes downward - see photo. The harbor has recently been dredged, one can carry 11 feet all the way to the fish plant farthest in on the south side. There is a strong river current flowing past the plant, especially after a rain, which can make landing difficult, but once tied up it is inconsequential. The inner wall on the south breakwater is in poor condition. There can be a roll at the public wharf on the north side of the harbor.
St. John's, page 119
2007 - Normally when entering St. John’s and obtaining clearance from Traffic Control, yachts are encouraged to tie up to the small floating public dock near the Pilot boat dock. While this can be satisfactory if you don’t mind the absence of water and electricity, these services can be obtained by getting permission from the Harbour Supervisor (call ahead to 709-682-5197) to tie up at the area marked as Piers 6 or 7 on the current chart in the SW corner of the harbor. You will also be closer to the town’s main attractions. Dockage fees had increased in 2007 to roughly $60 CDN for a 5-day stay for a 55-footer – still good value. We refilled our propane tank at the Irving station at 632 Topsail Rd. A kind local thankfully offered to drive there for us. From a tourist perspective St. John’s has a great deal to offer – among the very best is The Rooms Museum. – Doug & Dale Bruce
2005 - Jim Hawkins and Doug Hill: The floating dock, at the foot of Memorial Park and near the Pilot Station, is convenient to Water St, the trail to Signal Hill and the YM-YWCA where the saunas and showers make the walk worth it ($5.00cn cab ride). In 2005 dockage fees were a minimum of $51.00cn and $11.00cn per day after 5 days, someone will come around to collect. Note the sailboat tied to the floating dock in the accompanying photo, which was taken as approaching from the harbor's entrance.
Against the editor's policy, here are a couple of restaurants that were good in 2005: the Pepper Mill on Water Street and The Keg (steaks) on the waterfront at the head of the harbor. An extensive liquor store is located within the Murray Premises, between the waterfront and Water Street; and Avis has an office on Water Street just west of Memorial Park and the floating dock.
Should anyone need a real sailmaker there is one in St. John's; Chris Pitts doing business as North Atlantic Sails. It is reported that Chris Pitts moved back to New York in 2006. The two local guys can do minor repairs - "if watched carefully."
Brigus, page 122
2007 - Were told that most moorings west of Molly’s Island are used primarily on weekends by RNYC members and visiting yachts are most welcome to pick up any unused mooring. While we were there for one night the public wharf was quite active, so one should probably not tie up there and leave your boat unattended. – Doug & Dale Bruce
Harbour Grace, page 123
2005 - Alexander Weld onboard Windigo: Small fishing boats and a few pleasure craft use the marina on the south shore of the harbor. It is well protected within a series of breakwaters. The entrance is on the western end and marked by red and green spar buoys. On the north side of the harbor is Dave's Welding and Sons (709-596-5186), a large shipyard with two travel lifts and considerable expertise in marine matters.
Bay de Verde, page 124
2007 - We were told that new floating docks have been installed and might be available for visiting yachts. However, most locals seem to feel that Old Perlican is a far more secure harbor in any breeze from the southerly quadrant. We did not visit either, preferring to sail through Baccalieu Tickle (another wildlife paradise) into Trinity Bay. – Doug & Dale Bruce
2005 - Neil Bose onboard Murphy's Boat: The picture is a photomontage of Bay de Verde harbor and entrance in sun and fog. There is a floating dock, and several wharfs with yellow rails, indicating a public wharf, where one can tie. The community has a small convenience store and not much else. The photo was taken on July 4, 2005 and contradicts the comment in the guide that "the harbor is filled with small fishing skiffs". The chains that criss-crossed the harbor's bottom are probably still there.
Deer Harbour, page 126
2007 - A lovely bowl shaped anchorage with deep water (30-feet) entrance and a former government wharf that has recently been restored with private funds. Remains of a resettled town dot the southern shore and make for interesting exploration. – Doug & Dale Bruce
British Harbour, page 127
2007 - We found this to be a breathtakingly beautiful and moderately secure anchorage. Remains of resettled town, including 2 cemeteries, add to the intrigue. Sadly, we saw no horses, but had trouble deciding among many attractive places to drop our hook. – Doug & Dale Bruce
Pope’s Harbour/Little Harbour, page 127
2007 - After encouragement from local friends, we entered Little Harbour inside Pope’s (minimum depth 10’) and were delighted with this magical little cove with 360 degree protection and an old wharf recently renovated with private funds where we could tie up our 7’ 2”-deep sailboat with no problem. Try it, you’ll like it! – Doug & Dale Bruce
Traytown Harbour on Ireland’s Eye, page 128
2007 – Anchored in the cove before the narrows into the usual anchorage (inner pond) and found we got less intense williwaws than boats inside. Also had lots of swinging room and no angst about making it through the narrows in low light. Walked the heavily overgrown trail from Taytown Harbour to Black Duck Cove and then over the hill into the Ireland’s Eye community. The path would have been hard to find, but thankfully someone had placed fresh orange survey tape marking the old trail. Strongly recommend tall boots as there are deep bogs along the route. It was hard going in places, but worth the effort to see St. Goerge’s Church cemetery just up the hill from Black Duck Cove. – Doug & Dale Bruce
Trinity Harbour, page 130
2006 - Coryn and Tony Gooch onboard Taonui: The old public wharf is all but unusable and hs no railings or cleats. The marina has been dredged and expanded and can now accommodate up to four 40 - 45 foot boats or more with some rafting-up. The charge is still $.50 per foot for dockage, shower and water. Electricity is extra.
Bonavista Harbour, page 134
2007 – Harbour Supervisor Jerry Mouland is as helpful a man as you will find along this coast. Call ahead (709-468-1209) to insure a spot at the dock. Inside the breakwaters at Bonavista is a secure a spot in just about any weather. And the town has much to offer. – Doug & Dale Bruce
Bonavista Bay, page 135
2007 – Intended to anchor in Magic Arm (48º 42’N, 53º 52’W) but saw Mishes Cove to starboard and found it far more scenic and located good holding and swinging room near rocky cliff to port, outside the first cove to starboard. Explored numerous inner coves in this area by dinghy and found all too shallow and lumpy for anything but a shallow draft power boat. Many attractive cabins dot the shoreline but none were occupied during our visit. – Doug & Dale Bruce
Passage to west of Swale Island, page 137
2004 - Neil Bose onboard Murphy's Boat: These directions were suggested by the summer Coast Guard team stationed at Saltons Wharf. Follow the passage closest to the "mainland" (Island of Newfoundland), which actually goes just north of the un-named islet and south of the tiny islets and rock just north of this un-named islet. The rock bottom is clearly visible, but one can carry 12 feet of water at the shallowest part. The course through is 90 degrees or 270 degrees True, depending on the direction sailed.
Happy Adventure, page 137
2004 - Neil Bose onboard Murphy's Boat: The sketch shows the Public Wharf mentioned in the guide and the anchorage in the bay to the west. We anchored here on two occasions, once in 24 feet off the private wharf and once in shallower water further into the cove. The bottom is mud, but judging by the noise of our chain, possibly interspersed with rocks. The channel to the south of the wooded island is navigable by very small boats/dinghies and we explored it with a dinghy; there is a rock to the north side and a depth of about 4 feet to the south of the rock.
There is a teashop near to the Public Wharf, which sells simple snacks and award winning folk art. A store is a walk of about 3 kilometers.
Bishops Harbour, or Salvage, page 139
2007 – Local authorities have improved the hiking trails here with platforms providing overlooks of the fabulous scenery. While tricky to enter, this harbor is a Newfoundland classic and well worth a visit. – Doug & Dale Bruce
2006 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog: The guide has Salvage about right, but the entry, well marked as noted, is still intimidating as you approach the rocks to starboard. In the accompanying photo note the two red arrows, pointing to red buoys and one green arrow, pointing to the green buoy.
Little Harbor, Richards Island new (chart 4855) 48º 40'N, 53º 38'W
2005 - Doug Hill onboard Phoenix: The entrance, near the southwest end of the island, is narrow. Favor the port side to avoid the rock shelf to starboard; one can carry 12 feet all the way in. Turn to starboard gradually as the harbor opens up. The bottom is fairly level, gravel and mud. In a southerly or easterly blow the entrance might be intimidating.
Flat Islands, page 141
2005 - Doug Hill onboard Phoenix: A clarification for entering Butt's Cove is to leave the weed-covered drying rock close outside the entrance to port, then keep to port in the entrance itself to avoid the ledge that extends from the starboard side.
2006 - Coryn and Tony Gooch onboard Taonui: The dock on the north side of Flat Island is on its last legs, but still could be used with lines ashore. We anchored to the north of the dock, but were told by a returning one-time resident that that areas was poor holding and that we would surely drag in the SW 30 knots forecast for that night. He advised moving to good holding in the small bay to the north of Lower Flat Island, as shown on the sketch in the Guide.
Magic Arm, new (chart 4855) 48 42'N, 53 52'W
2004 - Neil Bose onboard Murphy's Boat: The anchorage is, as shown, in 11-12 feet. The bottom is mud. In 2004 there was no aquaculture facility here, as there was in prior years.
Bloomer Harbor, new (chart 4855) 48 44'N, 53 51'W
2005 - Doug Hill onboard Phoenix: This affords good shelter south of the small-unnamed island close west of Sam Lanes Island. There is good holding in mud in 8 feet of water. The only signs of activity are stacks of lobster pots here and there on the beach.
Lakeman Island, new (chart 4855) 48 50'N, 53 48'W
2005 - Doug Hill onboard Phoenix: Enter Lakeman Reach from the northeast, between Lakeman Island to the southeast and a clump of unnamed islands to the northwest. Proceed slowly; there appears to be a shoal patch or two in addition to the one charted. We anchored in 7 feet, in mud, with a stern anchor to prevent swinging, in the cove formed by a tiny southwest-pointing peninsula two thirds of the way along Lakeman Island's northwestern shore. Very quiet and lovely.
Puddingbag Cove, new (49º 05N, 53º 37W)
2007 – Puddingbag Cove is about a mile south of Valleyfield and provides a more interesting and better protected anchorage. The entrance is straight forward as shown on the copy of computer chart with a red line showing out track. The holding is good in 14 feet with a sticky mud bottom. The surrounding low hills make for pleasant walking. - Coryn & Tony Gooch aboard Taonui
Valleyfield, page 145
2005 - Doug Hill onboard Phoenix: charts #4857 and #4858 replace #4560 and 4536. A floating dock near and behind the southeast end of the extended fish plant wharf has 10 feet across its end and offers a bit more shelter than the outer face of the fish plant wharf, should the inside of that wharf be full. Showers are available at the Harbor Authority building.
Lumsden South, page 146
2006 - Coryn and Tony Gooch onboard Taonui: There is an excellent anchorage in the south east corner of Deadman's Bay off Long Beach. There are 10-15 foot depths with good holding on a sand bottom and protection from east through to south west.
2006 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog: There is now a second breakwater, roughly parallel to the old one, but well outside of it. Inside either one you are completely protected in an all-weather harbor. Entry is straight forward on the chart, but was somewhat confusing to us visually until quite far in. Once you find the channel buoys, everything becomes clear. There is more room in the outer basin (between the old and the new breakwaters) so larger boats will likely tie there. The inner basin will be busy during the fishing season.
Dildo Run, Notre Dame Bay, new (chart 4863)
2005 - Neil Bose onboard Murphy's Boat: This narrow buoyed passage lies between New World Island and the main part of Newfoundland. It is well buoyed, but riddled with reefs and rocks and only Chart 4863 shows soundings in the run itself. There is a low bridge across at Curtis Causeway, which has an air-draft of 12m. It is advisable to time your passage through the causeway and under the bridge to coordinate with the tide: we aimed for slack tide at low water, but when we arrived there was still a noticeable current running. The picture shows the bridge over the causeway. The swift current only runs a little way either side of the causeway because it's amplified by the stone of the abutments making up the causeway.
NEW - In 2006 the Cruising Guide for Notre Dame Bay was be published. Five years of hard work has gone into the project. The guide will contain color photographs (taken from a helicopter), charts, anchorage descriptions and lists of services in each community and lots more. It covers the area between LaScie to Wesleyville and costs $49.94cn plus 6% tax. To order a guide contact: The Lewisporte and Area Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 953, Lewisporte, Newfoundland, Canada A0G 3A0, or Lewisporte Marine at 709-535-6666.
Notre Dame Bay, 151 page
2007 - From Doug Hill aboard Phoenix come five write-ups about harbors in that pinnacle of cruising areas, plus one general note:
1. Intricate Harbor: The anchorage N of the island in the N part of the harbor has now been spoiled by a major land-clearing operation, said to be connected to a kayak-school development. Chart #4598.
2. Fortune Harbor: The wharf on the SW side of Southeast Arm gives precise meaning to the phrase "in ruins." The deck has been removed; some slippery cribbing is all that remains. With heavy rain coming we tied up to it (lasso technique on the pilings) and spent a comfortable night, but would look for an anchorage another time. Chart # 4520.
3. Shoal Tickle (entry to Burnt Bay and Lewisporte from N and NW, S of Birchy Island): The old Bay of Exploits charts, Sheet I (North) # 4595 (still in print) and Sheet 5 (Southeast) # 4599 (out of print), show slightly deeper water to port, to the left of a center-line through the Tickle. This track put us firmly aground. Instead follow the new (2005) chart (# 4865) and stay slightly to starboard, to the right of a center-line. This will keep you off the shoal clearly shown extending SW from Birchy Island. If in doubt about the whole process, it's not much longer to go around the N and E sides of Birchy Island and through either Birchy Island Tickle or Camel Passage and thence up to Lewisporte.
4. West Arm, Great Triton Harbor: Proceed very slowly in the entrance into the arm, with experienced crew on the bow. Keep slightly to port at first, aiming for the point ahead of you (in 2007 there was a white sign in the trees on the point): this will clear the ledge extending from a rock to starboard. Then turn slowly to starboard as you near the point and the water shoals, keeping close to the headland as you round it. Then move to starboard, out into the center as the channel narrows just before the main body of the arm opens up. We carried 10 feet at low water springs all the way in.
The arm holds a large mussel farm, but it's straightforward to pass between the lines of buoys, and turn to port to find a quiet anchorage in one of the coves on the E side. In a SW breeze the SW part of the arm looks to be secure. Charts #4592 and #4593 are accurate (as is #4520), but you'll want a magnifying glass."
5. Indian Burying Place: Visit if you can this resettled community, unique because many of the old houses and sheds are still standing, unpainted, empty and leaning, and more than a bit haunting. Anchoring is uncertain in the open cove and an onshore chop builds quickly in the prevailing SW wind. So you'll want a calm day; even then the skipper may wish to stay aboard and send the crew in by dinghy to look around. Things you see or find-furnishings, family possessions, other bits of material culture-should stay where they are. Chart # 4821 (2004) or # 4520.
Two general notes regarding Notre Dame Bay:
1. Bay of Exploits charts, sheets I through V (# 4596 through # 4599): Be sure to apply the Lat/Lon offsets suggested on each chart if you're using GPS -- this may bring your fixes down out of the woods. These old charts (first printed 1959, and not revised since) can be helpful for their wealth of detail, but there is no datum given and they need adjusting to work with modern technology.
Twillingate, page 152
2007 – The services at Twillingate have recently been improved. There is ample space at the docks. The Harbour Authority building includes an efficient coin-operated laundry. The old IGA store has been replaced with a larger Foodland (Sobey’s) supermarket. Bruce, the manager, will be happy to provide delivery to the dock. Internet access is available at the library which is part of the school on the top of the hill. The recently opened Harbour View Restaurant on the eastern side of the harbour also provides internet access (for a fee) along with a seafood menu and homemade desserts and a warm welcome. - Coryn & Tony Gooch aboard Taonui
2005 - Doug Hill onboard Phoenix: Chart #4886 replaces #4548. There is a Harbour Authority building with showers and laundry facilities, but was open erratically.
Moreton's Harbour, page 153
2005 - Doug Hill and Neil Bose: Chart # 4886 replaces #4598. Knights Landing Marina appears to be out of operation. The wharf in Cross Cove is in good repair, is easy to approach and suitable for lying alongside. There is at least 12 feet on the west and south faces; the east face has small boats tied to it with stern moorings set. Parallel to the west face and 25 feet off it, are the ruins of an old jetty.
Michael's Harbour, new (chart 4865) 49º 17' N; 54º 59' W
2005 - Neil Bose onboard Murphy's Boat: This harbour is just a few miles north of Lewisporte. The entrance is deep, contrary to the indication on Chart 4865, and the indentations on the shores are not sufficient to provide shelter in all wind directions. The bar at the north end of the harbour covers at high tide and in a northerly a certain amount of swell enters the harbour. The harbour is clear of rocks except for the small bay in the southeast corner. The bottom is mud, the holding good.
Western Harbour, Sivier Island new (chart 4865) 49º 21'N; 54º 59'W
2005 - Neil Bose onboard Murphy's Boat: This is a convenient, landlocked anchorage. The sketch shows the entry which must be made very close to the small point on the southeast shore in order to avoid a drying rock well out in the middle of the entrance way. The northwest side is shoal. The second point on the eastern shore should also be given a wide berth, as depths are shallow. From here it is best to keep to mid channel into the inner basin. Anchorage can be found anywhere in the inner basin, depending on preference and wind direction. There is a rock on the western shore. There are many cabins around the shore of this harbor.
Puzzle Harbour new (chart 4863) 49º 32' N; 54º 51' W
2005 - Neil Bose onboard Murphy's Boat: This is a delightful secluded harbor. There was only one cabin on its shore and in 2005 no aquaculture present. The sketch indicates the route in, keeping to the west and north sides to avoid rocks reported towards the other shore. The depths are greater than shown on Chart 4863. The X marks the hill from which the three photos were taken making up the photomontage. The bottom is mud; it is very sheltered.
Lewisporte, page 154
2006 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog: A guide to Notre Dame Bay can be purchased from the marine store in Lewisporte, LewisporteMarine@hotmail.com or call 709-535-6666. The Irving station just outside the marina entrance closed in September 2006. The Esso station, a kilometre away, now has the liquor store, diesel and ice. The hydraulic yard trailer, the lift, can handle sailboats up to about 7 foot drafts. Best call ahead and talk to Kevin, the lift operator. Locals and transients use Ivan Boone's services; he is a quality guy with many skills. Additional slips are being installed and the marina is eager for transients, winter haul outs and storage. The library across from the maina is now a WiFi hotspot so internet access is available there, but the signal cannot be captured from the marina.
Fortune Harbour, page 158
2005 - Doug Hill onboard Phoenix: The public wharf southwest of Sims Point is dilapidated, but more or less functional at this point; use extreme care in getting lines ashore. There is a small general store in the community, not at the wharf.
Southern Head Cove new (chart 4596) 49º 21.4' N; 55º 4.8' W
2005 - Neil Bose onboard Murphy's Boat: The sketch shows one route into this harbor from the northeast and the picture is from the pier looking out to the northeast. The pier is L-shaped. Inside of the pier there is a floating dock with a depth of 12 feet alongside. There is a small shop at the pier which sells ice cream and home made bread.
Little Bay Island, page 161
2006 - Coryn and Tony Gooch onboard Taonui, and Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog: The last shop in the community recently closed. There is a small convenience store/bar less than a kilometer on the road to the ferry. Only about 75 people now live year round on the island, another 25 or so summer here. The fish plant, which processes crab among other fish, was still working and was undergoing routine repair - a good sign, but for how long? As long as the fish plant is working the ferry will still come. Everyone fears for the island should the plant close.
The public wharf is in good condition and has electricity and water, but a sign, dated 1982, suggests boiling the water. A new filtration plant is about to be completed so the sign may come down. The showers and laundry on the dock are still good.
Le Scie, page 165
2005 - Doug Hill onboard Phoenix: The public wharf to port as you enter the harbour has a sign prohibiting tying up. Beyond the fish plant wharves to starboard there is a floating dock where we found 10 feet along its outer face. Another option might be the Marine Service Center further in on the starboard side.
Pacquet Harbour, page 161
2006 - Coryn and Tony Gooch onboard Taonui: Coming from the east the entrance is easy to identify using the light on the south headland and the two communications towers on the hill about a mile west of the western entrance headland. Coming from the northwest the entrance is very difficult to find. About a mile from the entrance the towers become visible while the light is hidden until you are about ½ mile away - or less. Until then the coast looks to be a solid wall of high rock. A small orange colored building on a low hill to the northwest of the entrance can easily be mistaken for the light. There is no small scale chart of the area. Once identified, the ¼ mile wide entrance is open and unencumbered, but the south side should be favored to avoid the rocks off-lying from the island that extends out from the northern entrance headland. We found good shelter in the pool at the head of Paris Bay with good holding in thick mud and 30 feet of water.
Crouse Harbour, new (chart 4583) 50º 54.3'N, 55º 53.3'W
2006 - Coryn and Tony Gooch onboard Taonui: This wide, easily accessible harbor on the north side of the Conche Peninsular provides protection from all but NW winds. The bay narrows to a width of about 3/10ths mile as it gently shelves to a shingle beach at the head. The holding was good in thick mud and a depth of 30 feet.
Fleur de Lys, new (chart 4520) 50º 07'N, 56º 08'W
2005 - Doug Hill onboard Phoenix: This harbour lies some 4 miles southeast of Partridge Pt., between that point and Bay Verte. Chart 4520 isn't much good for its scale is 1:286,000, but it's the only chart that shows where Fleur de Lys is located. The entrance to this picturesque harbour is hard to spot from seaward; the charted light structure is small and nearly invisible. Trust your GPS, the entrance also shows up clearly on radar and look for the distinctive three-humped hill that gives the town its name. Once through the narrow buoyed channel there are two wharves to lie alongside, wherever space is available. In early July the wharves were nearly empty; three weeks later they were jammed with the mackerel fleet coming and going night and day. The Dorset Indian soapstone quarry and the museum/interpretation center nearby are definitely worth a visit. The local domestic architecture is unlike anything else in Newfoundland.
Englee, page 171
2005 - Doug Hill onboard Phoenix: Although the southern cove is shoal, there's enough water to provide access to a Marine Service Center on its north shore, where there was a three-masted 60 footer on the hard.
St. Anthony, page 174
2005 - Doug Hill onboard Phoenix: The Coast Guard vessel Harp is still based in St. Anthony, and is regularly tied up in her spot on the east side of the Government wharf when not out on patrol. S he was there for most of the summer of 2005.
Quirpon Tickle, page 177
2006 - Coryn and Tony Gooch onboard Taonui: There is an excellent anchorage on the eastern side of the bight, to the SE of Butterpot Rock, with good protection from all winds. Except, a NW wind would likely set up an uncomfortable chop as it blows through the Tickle. The holding was good with a bottom of sandy mud and 20 foot depths.
St. Barbe, page 181
2007 – Suggest anchoring behind ferry dock in small cove in 2 to 3 fathoms in mud. Ferry appears to use both sides of the wharf depending on conditions. – Douglas Nikkila on board Xingu
Port aux Choix, page 184
2007 – Showers and laundry facilities are now available in one of the buildings on the wharf – presumably managed by the local Harbour Authority. The Foodland grocery noted in the book as 1-½-miles from town is actually closer to ½-mile. – Douglas Nikkila on board Xingu
Cow Head, page 187
2007 - Additional facilities include the Gros Morne Theatre, laundry, restaurants and liquor store; also a model boat builder next to liquor store. – Douglas Nikkila on board Xingu
Rocky Harbour (at entrance to Bonne Bay), page 189
2007 – There is a new wharf just to starboard on the way in. There might be room for 2 or 3 boats if no fishing boats are there. Walk to town in 15 minutes where 2 good grocery stores plus a bank are still going strong. Wi-Fi is available at gift shop across from town dock and at Java Jack’s restaurant. – Douglas Nikkila on board Xingu
Editor’s Note: If you’ve not been into Bonne Bay before, would suggest skipping Rocky Harbour in favor of much prettier, more protected anchorages and wharves inside the bay.
Bonne Bay, page 188
2005 - Doug and Dale Bruce onboard Bluewater: The dock at Lomond (park campsite) up the East Arm is damaged and unuseable.
Beach Point (near Blue Beach), page 196
2007 - We sought respite from a strong southerly here, and found it quite snug. The entrance heading is more NW than the sketch shows, so the S wind brought no swell inside. The entrance is narrow, perhaps 60’, and I estimate the width of the basin between the pier and the gravel island at not more than 200’. The main pier is 120’ long and the L about 80’. The basin was recently dredged by a backhoe to 12’ at the pier, shoaling to 6’ near the island. Fishermen here reported that there is also a man-made basin on the east side of Fox Island. – Bill Cook aboard Resolution.
Pilot Press
info@pilot-press.com
| 
