Pilot Press - Cruising Guide to The Labrador Updates

The Cruising Guide to The Labrador

Updates from the Summers of 2006 - 2008

The current edition of the Cruising Guide to the Labrador is dated March 2006 – check the date on the contents page for date of your edition.

At the very end of this update is a very good discussion "On the Matter of Polar Bears" by Finley Perry, January 2009, in collaboration with Steve Loutrel, who has sailed to and climbed in the Torngat region, and Angus Simpson at the Torngat Mountians National Park. It is important reading for anyone who sails Labrador, particularly north of Nain.

In 2000 William Cook wrote the guide's introduction "Cruising Labrador." Following his trip to Ungava Bay in 2007 he rewrote the introduction, which is included at the end of this update and will be in future Guides.

In October 2006 a question was sent to the Canadian Ice Service concerning icebergs, or more accurately, the lack thereof. Their reply: “The number of icebergs found off the east cost of Canada in any given year is affected by a number of things: 1) Greenland and Canadian Arctic iceberg production in previous years; 2) the number of icebergs drifting southward through Davis Strait at the beginning of the winter season; 3) the extent of winter sea ice along the Labrador Coast and to the northeast of Newfoundland; and 4) wind patterns and sea surface temperatures at the beginning and the end of the winter season. Of these factors, the extent of sea ice that develops along the Labrador coast is key. Icebergs drifting down the east coast are frozen into the sea ice pack during the winter, and the ice serves to protect the bergs from disintegrating by North Atlantic winter storm wave action. Greater sea ice extent means a greater number of ice bergs will survive the winter through to the next spring. During the past few years, sea ice extent along the Labrador coast and to the northeast of Newfoundland has been less than normal. This is partly due to a long-term trend related to global warming and partly due to natural variability and North Atlantic climate cycles. Likely, after a sea ice minimum such as the one we have been experiencing, extents will recover to normal or slightly above normal within the next few years. However, due to the negative trend associated with global warming, sea ice extent recovery may be less than seen in previous decades. This means that the number of bergs found off the east cost of Canada should increase in number within the next few years, but probably won’t reach the peak numbers and the extreme southern latitudes of the past heavy iceberg years.”

The Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve has been established and extends from Saglek Bay north to Cape Chidley and includes all land within Labrador north of Saglek Bay. There is no marine component to the park at this time.

Editors note: See discussion of "On The Matter Of Polar Bears" at the end of is up-date.

Miscellaneous Notes on Internet and CAP Centers

2008 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog We were in several CAP centers and in each one the worker thought that federal support for personnel, especially summer workers, would not be continued in 2009. Now that most families have a computer at home, few people actually use the Centers. Everyone believes the computers will be passed to a school or library for local use, but the personnel funding will be discontinued. Therefore, to insure internet connection in the future one will need to carry the access onboard in some form and not count on the availability of the CAP Centers.

2008 Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse A note on my comments about wifi. None of the locations we have used would show up directly on the computer. We always have to use our high gain antenna, connected via a 600mw access point.

Red Bay, Western Arm A – 1 (51?42.9N, 56?27.7W)

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution Good protection, except in Easterly winds. Easy access even at night in fog. Bottom weedy, but adequate holding.

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse Via the Whalers Restaurant you can find someone to take you on a land tour. We used Freeman Butts, and the three hour ride and commentary was fascinating. Public pier is fine for dinghies. Probably better off at anchor for the big boat. Library has internet (wifi and their own PCs). Good holding where described in the guide (hard mud).

Henley Harbour B - 5

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse - chart appears accurate, although detail is lacking. Good holding with enough room to swing 400' diameter circle if you pick your spot to drop carefully. Totally deserted. The cove to the north of Henley Island is currently the base for uranium mine exploration.

North East Arm, Horn Bay, Niger Sound B - 15

2007 – Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui. There are two obvious anchorages in Horn Bay. Northwest Arm is subject to williwaws in strong west winds and we had trouble getting the anchor to hold. On another occasion we tried North East Arm and found it to be perfect anchorage with shelter from all but strong southerly winds. We anchored in the north east corner in 12 feet with good holding on a mud bottom. Excellent hiking on shore. An added treat was to see a mother bear and two cubs eating grass and searching for mussels.

Battle Harbour B - 25

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse - docks can handle several yachts at once (and will arrange rafting if required). It's open from mid-June to mid-September. The collegial style meals (with interesting visitors) are a real treat. Their phone can be used after business hours, and it has a dial up (slow) internet connection. A few items are available in the "General Store" to tide you over if you run out of basics.

Mary's Harbour B - 30

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse Good holding in 15-20' off Battle Island ferry dock. We found a usable wifi signal at anchor. Three small groceries stores with basics are in town. Pay phone at the "hotel" and Internet at the library.

Fox Harbour B - 35

2008 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog The fish plant only processes crab now so closes in mid-July when crabbing is over in this area. The shower in the fish plant is free and good. Water is pond water. There is a washer and dryer in the Harbour Authority office, open "all the time". There is no water or electricity on the public dock. The wharfs are all in excellent shape. Internet is at the CAP center, a twenty five minute walk from the dock, at the very end of town in the school. There are two convenience stores in town, both about a twenty minute walk from the wharf. The truck with produce comes once a week, maybe. One of the stores has a bakery with fresh bread, they also serve coffee and tea cakes.

Bottom Arm, Port Charlotte new 52??? 27’N, 55? 46’W Chart 4701 Insert

2007 – Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui found excellent shelter here from NW to NW gales anchoring in 40 feet in the middle of the basin. The holding was good in mud with some weed and the low surrounding hills did not create any williwaws.

William’s Harbour B - 60

2007 Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui. A disastrous fire in July 2007 completely destroyed the docks at William’s Harbour.

St. Francis Harbour Bight B – 65

2007 Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui. St. Francis Harbour is rather exposed to the SE. An alternative is St. Francis Harbour Bight, also shown on the detailed insert on chart 4701. The Bight is protected from all but a strong NW wind. The entrance is straight forward. Anchor in 35 feet at the head of the bay with good holding. We took lines to the south and north shores to provide added stability as a strong SE funneled down the cove. Great hiking on shore.

Ship Harbour B - 75

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle The fish factory pier remains in serviceable condition, with more than 15 feet LW at the southwest face. The flies are still voracious.

Pinsent Arm B - 80

2008 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog The small fish plant wharf is in good shape; they process whelk, crab and scallops and expect to be open until mid-September. They have fuel and pond water. The entrance is marked with red and green lighted buoys.

Snug Harbour B - 90

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle The deserted pier in the SW arm has a loading boom extending over its seaward face that made the pier unusable. We anchored near the pier at the end of the arm in 50 - 60 feet, mud and stone; fair holding.

Lady Arm B – 97

2007 - Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui. The store at Lady Arm has closed. Supplies can be obtained by taking the ferry from here to Charlottetown at 09:30 on Monday’s and Thursdays and returning at 16:30. Return trip cost $18.00. This could work for a crew change as there is air service to Charlottetown.

Hawk Harbour B - 105

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse To the east of the rocks at the entrance to the harbor we found 26 feet of water half way between the rocks and the shore and 17 feet to the west of the rocks, again in mid channel. Corrected to low tide,

Meta Fog in Eagle Harbour
Photo by Ellie Adams

Eagle Harbour B - 106

2008 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog We anchored between the rock with its surrounding ledges and the shore to the north. When we anchored we thought we were on rocks the anchor dragged more than usual before biting in. However, we held firmly in 15-20 knots from the NW. On pulling the anchor up it was an aggregate of thick mud, small stones and shells. This is really thick stuff; it took a while to wash it all off!

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse We were not happy anchoring where indicated in the guide. Instead dropped the pick in 56 feet of water, pulling uphill to 42 feet of water 175 feet back from the anchor and used more than the normal amount of scope.

Squasho Run B – 108

2007 Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui found that the bouys in the Run have been reversed from the positions given in the Guide. Green was on the western side of the channel and red was on the eastern side.

Mullins Cove new 53? 44’N, 56? 27’W Chart 5133 and detailed plan on 4712

2007 – Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui. This is a large bay just south of Cape North that provides good shelter from West and NW winds, particularly when going north when rounding Cape North into a stiff NW wind which can be a struggle. We anchored in 20 feet deep in the NW corner to keep out of the swell that does make into the bay. The holding is good in sandy-mud.

American Tickle: B - 120

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle As noted previously, we were unable to identify the charted rock at the north end of Long Island, even with a deep swell running at half tide with everything else in the vicinity breaking heavily. This rock to us seems to be non-existent.

Punchbowl B – 125

2007 – Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui. The only buoy in the entrance channel is a green buoy marking the shoal off the southern point as you enter. The buildings are an eyesore and still in the process of slow demolition by people from Black Tickle. The docks are still in good condition. We rode out a SE gale in comfort, tied inside the outer dock with lines off to the root dock.

Black Tickle (Salmon Bight) B -141

2008 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog We were told by a friend who lives in Goose Bay that we could get "everything needed" here. We didn't need much, but found the community very friendly. A steady stream of people came to the dock to talk. The fish plant manager and his staff could not have been more accommodating. We paid $10 a day for electricity. Diesel and gasoline are available for a few hours each day at the "gas station" adjacent to the wharf. (Ed. The "unfriendly attitude" comment in the guide will be removed in the next edition.)

Bateu B - 140

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse We found the inner basin not quite as ideal as described in the guide. If it were to blow hard from SE, I suspect it would be very bouncy with waves/swells making right into the basin (we had a calm night). There are a couple of up-to-date looking cabins, but most are abandoned or blown down with scattered debris. Not an inviting spot now.

Indian Tickle B - 165

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle In 2008 the three buoys that mark the way through the tickle ((two reds and a green) were still in place as described in the guide.

Curlew Harbour C - 12

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle Good holding (mud) in 35 feet. Good swimming in 50 (F) degree water. Few insects.

Cartwright C - 15

2008 Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse The harbor is busy with ferry and container ship traffic, but good holding anchored near the red buoy about Ľ mile off the ferry terminal. The dinghy "dock" requires coming ashore ideally just before high tide, say 1.5 hours prior, and leaving by similar time frame after. Stern anchor for the dinghy is pretty much a necessity. You will see several dozen local small boats doing same. The Marine Center has closed and its travel lift has been sold and removed.

Supplies seem as per the guide. Northern market right next to the ferry terminal is a short walk from dinghies. Good inventory of frozen and basic items. Fresh veggies and fruit looked a little picked over (on Monday - truck due Wed.).

2006 - Robert Pirie writes “In Cartwright there are no facilities on the Marine Center wharf except electricity, although I suppose fuel could be delivered. Rafting up in the miniscule inner part can be an adventure. Water is available at the Ferry Wharf, but getting along side there can also be an adventure.”

White Bear Islands new 54?27.7N, 56?’55.7’W

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution A beautiful and remote spot, but offering limited shelter. The cove east of South Island has the best protection, but is still open to the east; we found a good sand bottom in 50’ of water.

Smokey Tickle C - 85

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle We found no problems on entering via the SE entrance using Canadian chart #5042. The shoal areas marked on the chart and are clearly visible in high sunshine. The least depth (near the old fishing depot) is about 14 feet at half tide. We found secure anchorage near the old boat ramp in 25 feet, sticky brown mud.

Emily Harbour C - 90

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle Anchoring in the eastern most cove is in grass and mud in 35-40 feet, good holding.

Webeck Harbor: C - 100

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution We found good protection and holding ground in the cove on the NW side.

Maklkovik D - 25

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle We have repeatedly found this village to be the most hospitable on the entire Labrador coast. Diesel fuel is available by truck from Martin Oil Co (business phone: 709-924-2117) is delivered to the fish factory piers. The truck nozzle just fits into a standard 1 ˝ inch fuel fill and works well if you pump slowly. Water is available by hose on the inner (south) side of the steamer dock. Check with the fish plant foreman to connect the hose.

This village can often be better than Nain for making a crew change, for the airfield has fewer restrictions (being away from the town a bit) and the twin otters of Labrador Air and Provincial Air seem to have a much easier time at making their scheduled landings here.

Napakataktalik (Manuel) Island D - 51 (55° 32'N, 60° 14.7'W) new

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle Shown on Canadian chart #5047 this deep cove in the center of this saddleback island is located 5 nautical miles northeast of Hopedale. The anchorage is safe in wins N through E to S. The chart is accurate, slowly shoaling depths all the way in. The best anchorage appers to be in the SE portion of the inner cove in 15 feet LW, with good holding in sand and widely scattered small stones.

Cape Harrigan Harbour D - 56

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle We had good holding in mud and weed near the 8-meter sounding near the SE corner of the harbor.

Tikigatsiak Cove E - 6

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle The directions in the guide for entering this perfect gunk hole are spot-on. The narrowest part of the entry around the "rocky point" is especially important. The deep water (2 fathoms) is indeed 20-25 yards from shore…no more, no less!

Dawes Harbor, Kikiktaksoak Island E - 40

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution The northern cove is better sheltered, but swinging room is limited.

Amity Harbour F - 5

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle The very clear water made it easy to anchor over sand in 35-40 feet in the SW corner, with very little kelp. The weed on the fisherman anchor when pulled up was angel hair - and not much of that. The river that flows into the NW end of the harbor tumbles down the rock in a bridal veil of small waterfalls…good for bathing…and filling your water jugs.

Cod Fish Cove NEW 57° 37'N, 62° 00'W

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle On advise from a local fisherman we decided to use this cove to wait out some nasty SE weather. It appears on Canadian chart 4764 with a single line of (accurate) soundings. In the easterly end the bottom shoals up slowly from 200 feet to 30 feet some 400 yards from shore and then gradually from there up to the beach. The bottom is sand with some weed, good holding. This is a secure anchorage, open only to the SW.

Bear Cove NEW 58° 28'N, 61° 18'W

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle This previously unnamed cove is located on the SE corner of Higher Bight (on the eastern side of Paul Island) and is shown on Canadian chart #5052. It provides good protection in winds N through E to SW. The best anchorage is in the NE corner, where we canchored in 40 - 50 feet some 200 yards from the shore. The bottom is mud with only moderate weed. We lay here comfortably for two nights during an easterly blow. At various times we noted at least four very healthy-looking black bears foraging in the berry-patches on the west-facing hills - thus the name for this cove.

Hebron F - 35

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution Considerable progress on the restoration of the mission building in 2007; new sills, and framing on much of the structure. Two carpenters from Newfoundland working, with the promise of six more from Nain, but these had not arrived in early August. Polar bears in the area; Tom Dawe, the lead carpenter, had been stalked by one, and eventually had to shoot it.

Saglek Bay: Western Harbor F - 45 (58/31.5N, 62/46.0W)
2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution This harbor is between Shuldham and Handy Islands, is reasonably protected and has good holding in 25’.

Eastern Harbour (Northeast Cove), Big Island

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle This cove is located in the northeaster part of Eastern Harbour, different than the anchorage currently described in the guide. Both are located between Big Island and Handy Island. The entire cove is uniformly deep and bold, shoaling very gradually up to the beach in the northern end, with no apparent dangers except for the charted boulders and ledges that make out from the SW point. The bottom is composed of sandy patches scattered among heavy kelp. Pick a comfortable depth, pick a sandy spot, and drop your anchor. Safe for winds SW thru N to SE.

St. Johns Harbor F- 45

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle At the end of this two mile long fior, on the southern side of Saglek Bay, is the new site for the "Torngat National Park and Reserve" Welcome Center. In 2008 this translated into a camp site with pup tents and four prefab canvas buildings set on wooden platforms. The entire area was surrounded by a "polar bear fence". The plan is to have the Center open for 6 to 8 weeks in July and August.

2008 - Steve Loutrel onboard Adelie The Torngat Park supplies training and a DVD on how to co-exist "safely" with polar bears. According to the Park one can not carry firearms ashore within the Park. One piece of advice from them is that "if attacked by a predatory polar bear do not play dead, fight back for your life". How to do that without a firearm is an interesting discussion!

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution In 2007, this was the site of a large summer encampment of officials of the Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve. They expected to return in subsequent summers, as it is one of the best camping places, with dry, level ground, and abundant fresh water. For bear defense, they turn on an electric perimeter fence at night, and have designated “bear wardens” who can shoot a bear if necessary.

Saglek anchorage

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution It is possible to change crews here, using a chartered flight to the air strip at the NORAD base. Workers at the base have been willing to provide transport between the air strip and the shore.

Ramah Bay F - 55

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle The approach is straightforward. Stand off about 300 yards as you round the rocky point marked "Ramah" on Canadian Chart #4769 and follow the shoreline down to the charted site of the "Moravian Sta." And anchor in sand and mud in 30 - 50 feet, just outboard of a steep sandbar that parallels the shore. We lay to two anchors set in a Bahamian Moor and wee comfortable throughout the night of random gusts from almost every quarter. (Three polar bears and a bull caribou shared the anchorage with us.)

Schooner Cove, Nachvak Fiord G - 5

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle This cove, actually more of a shallow roadstead, provides an adequate lee in northerly winds, even though the high hills on either side deflect the gusts in all directions. The 40 foot deep shelf provides fair holding in mud and heavy kelp with occasional sandy spots.

Eclipse Channel: G - 15

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution The cove NW of Miller Peninsula has good holding in sand and weed. It is shallow, with 9’ LW just inside the entrance, but the bottom slopes very gradually, so one might be able to go farther in than we did.

Tunnissugjuak Inlet G - 20

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution The cove on the north side, about four miles west of Clark Harbor, has good holding in heavy kelp and mud.

McLelan Strait: G - 30

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution The currents here are predictable, using the tide tables for Port Burwell. Since the tidal range at the west end of the Strait is so much higher than at the east end, it is the height at the west end that drives the current. As it happens, the time of high tide at the east end (as tabulated for Williams Harbor) occurs at about the same time, but this time is of minor importance. The west-going current will begin 3-4 hours after high water at Port Burwell, when the level there has fallen below that at the east end. The east-going current begins 3-4 hours after low water at Port Burwell, when the level there is above that at the east end, and rising. The current is strongest in the narrows near the west end of the Strait, so time your passage for a moderately fair current in that section.

Port Burwell new 60?25’N, 64?51’W

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution Mission Cove is the best anchorage, with room for one boat in the wide part near the abandoned buildings. It is about 50’ deep here, and the bottom is mud and kelp with good holding. We had a swimming visit by a polar bear, which was exciting, but uneventful.

Button Islands new 60?38’N, 64?41’W

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution Though not the most hospitable place, with shores of bare black rock, and strong currents, we found a cove out of most of the current on MacColl Island about 1 ľ mi. NE of the charted anchorage at Observation Island. Depth was 25’ and the holding good in mud and kelp.

On the Matter of Polar Bears

By Finley Perry January 2009
In collaboration with Steve Loutrel, who has sailed to and climbed in the Torngat region,
and Angus Simpson at the Torngat Mountians National Park

The subject of bear viewing and personal protection is a complex one. To begin with, the wilderness is not a zoo. Animal sightings are not predictable, and can occur unexpectedly. Bears are numerous north of Nain, and one will see them - both polar bear and black bear. It makes sense to prepare for an encounter.

If not "endangered", polar bears have at best a challenging existence. They are adapted to the far north of frozen seas, hunting seals on the sea ice for much of the year, and living on whatever can be scrounged ashore in the warmer months. They live where food is scarce. Anything that looks like a meal is worth investigating. For whatever reason, polar bear populations on the Labrador and Baffin coasts are reported to be increasing in recent years. It could be that the populations are growing, or, perversely, it might be that changes in the extent of sea ice, or other environmental factors, have stranded concentrated static or even shrinking populations in certain areas, making these populations appear to be increasing.

Polar bears are meat eaters. Their primary diet is seals taken on the sea ice. They are opportunistic predators. They may kill and eat when they find food regardless of hunger. In summer they will scavenge as evidenced by berries in their scat, and it is safe to assume that along the Labrador coast in the summer and fall before freeze-up, they are generally always hungry. They will attack when an opportunity appears favorable. For example, "opportunity" might exist if potential prey appears weaker or slower than the hunter, or separated from a protective group. A single scared tourist hiking across the landscape might constitute such opportunity. A pack or group of "prey" keeping close together would appear more troublesome.

Black bears on the other hand are omnivorous and in fact most of their diet is vegetation. It varies, but 20 or 30% of their diet may be meat. Black bears may not be as predatory as polar bears, but they make up for it in unpredictability. Keep in mind, as you look around at the north Labrador landscape, that there is not a lot to eat in this place.

The native Inuit will not go into the country without a rifle. At the Parks Canada Saglek base camp, those venturing out of camp for research or recreation are accompanied by an armed "Bear Monitor". On the other hand, in Canadian national parks, no visitors may carry firearms. In the Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve a special agreement allows the carrying or use of firearms only by native Inuit.

Considering that the carrying or use of firearms outside the Park requires, at best, a cumbersome permitting procedure for non-Canadians as well as Canadian citizens, and, if used less than expertly, a gun could well make an otherwise innocuous bear encounter truly dangerous…then what other protective measures can be employed?

When going ashore, go in groups and keep close together. Keep a very close watch for bears, always scan the surroundings, be aware of where you are most likely to find a bear. You don't want to surprise a bear or be surprised by a bear.
Before going ashore, scan the landscape carefully for signs of animals. If you see a bear, chances are he has seen you and curiosity will bring him to the shore giving both parties a good look at each other. Do not go ashore where you see bears. Either move to another harbor or simply stay on board.
If using an inflatable dinghy, consider taking along a second inexpensive inflatable "raft" to enable a safe return to your vessel in the event a curious bear "playfully" punctures your primary transportation while you are away walking. See Steve Loutrel's notes below.
Don't leave trash and garbage ashore. Avoid things that will attract bears when ashore -- for example, cleaning fish or game. Avoid cooking if possible.
Look for signs of animal presence - tracks, scat, fresh kill.
If you find a fresh kill, stay away from it. Don't get between a bear and its food.
Try not to surprise any wildlife. Make noise. Use care when approaching blind corners.
In the same vein, be aware of wind direction. If you spot an animal, and he sees you, try to stay upwind of him to give him notice of your presence and a scent of what you are.
Carry noise-makers, "bear bangers" - perhaps a flare pistol - to frighten off an animal that comes too close. See Steve Loutrel's notes below.
If you encounter a bear, keep your movements slow (relatively) and deliberate. Do not run.
Don't get between a mother and cubs. A mother with her cub is especially dangerous. If she sees you as a risk to her cub you are in an extremely dangerous situation.
Do not encourage an attack by making eye contact. Move off slowly. Speak assertively.
Pay constant attention to your surroundings. If a bear appears interested and / or approaches you, try to scare him away as early as possible. You do not want to observe him up close!!!!

Those who make camp ashore will sooner or later have a bear encounter in camp. For this reason, Parks Canada discourages kayaking along the coast without a mother ship for sleeping. Camping on the beaches, particularly in the northern part of the Torngat Park is dangerous. The issue is not that "you might have a bear encounter, but you will have a polar bear encounter". Those who cruise the coast in a yacht will find bears along the shore or swimming off a beach, but it would be most unusual to hear of one coming aboard or attempting to board (see point on opportunity above). If your plans include extensive activity ashore, consider enlisting the services of a native guide / bear monitor. There is much to be learned of the country, customs, and wildlife from these individuals in addition to the peace of mind they provide.

One must do everything one can to avoid confrontations with polar bears. This includes studying and understanding polar bear behavior as much as possible. If you are forced to kill a polar bear, it should be considered a personal defeat - you did not do your job in avoiding a confrontation or scaring the bear away. You must report the event to the authorities. There will be an investigation to ensure that the circumstances were unavoidable and that it was in self defense. If there is strong evidence that the actions were unnecessary and irresponsible, then charges may be laid.

For a further excellent discussion on eastern Canadian Arctic wildlife in general and bear encounters in particular download the Parks Canada visitor information on polar bear encounters for Auyuittuk National Park in Baffin which you can find using the Parks Canada website http://www.pc.gc.ca. Use http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/nl/torngats/visit/secur_e.asp to access extensive and useful information on the Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve. Finally, make note of bear and other wildlife sightings (time, location, lat/lon, gender, behavior, weather, etc), and report them to Parks Canada in Nain.

Parks Canada
P. O. Box 471
Nain, NL
Canada AOP 1L0
Torngats.info@pc.gc.ca
Tel:709 922-1290
Toll Free: 1-888-922-1290

Also a reminder that anyone planning to cruise along the coast of the Park and land in the Park must register with the Parks Canada office. And further, permits from the Nunatsiavut Government (NG) are required for landing on Inuit owned land. Contact the NG before arriving to determine applicability to your itinerary and to obtain a permit. The address is below.

Department of Lands and Resources
Nunatsiavut Government
PO Box 70
Nain, NL
Canada A0P 1L0
Tel: 709-922-2942
Fax: 709-922-2931

Contributed by Steve Loutrel - January, '09
Information on handling bears.

Canadian web site - Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve, also Auyuittuk National Park in Baffin
An excellent DVD is available from Park Headquarters in Nain (address above). We viewed it and discussed handling polar bears with Angus Simpson, Resource Conservation Supervisor at Park headquarters. We learned much more about Polar Bears than we had learned in our seven previous expeditions to this coast. It was good timing, since with the dramatic increase in polar bears in Northern Labrador, we had our first two close experiences with bears in the summer of 2008. We were able to recognize the bears' behavior and scare them away using tactics given in the DVD. I would suggest that every member of the crew view this DVD. Multiple viewings are helpful.
Tactics for scaring bears away. (This is covered in the DVD) If a bear seems to be interested in you, you should scare him away when he is as far away as possible - don't wait for him to get close. The more comfortable he gets with you and the more time he is in contact, the more chance he has to become predatory. If he becomes predatory, he will attack with the intention of having you for dinner. The advice from the park information is that if you are attacked "fight back". Without a firearm, this is a daunting situation! Start by throwing large stones. As climbers, we carried our ice axes - even if we didn't need them for the climb. I believe a group of people, all armed with ice axes against one bear does have a chance - do not consider it hopeless and give up! There is a (reasonable ?) chance that a predatory bear, feeling the results of well aimed blows with an ice axe may decide it is not worth it and depart. Clearly, the goal is to avoid encounters and to never let the situation get to this point!
Equipment you should have ahead of time.
Pen-launched bear bangers
Pen-launched screamers - launch a projectile which emits a loud screaming whistle.
Flare gun?? I have not seen it recommended but it may be helpful and you have it on board anyway.
Loud horn.
Bear repellent - pepper spray. This must be declared at customs. They should let you through though there have been problems with them not allowing the spray through. It is important to note that you are going to a wilderness area and that the pepper spray is for repelling bears. The container must say that it is a bear repellent. Pepper spray for protection against people is illegal. We are told by the park personnel that it is not clear whether pepper spray is effective against polar bears. There are documented cases where spray was deployed effectively, BUT IT MUST BE STRESSED THAT BEAR SPRAY IS A VERY LAST RESORT AFTER ALL ELSE HAS FAILED. BEAR SPRAY IN AN OF ITSELF SHOULD NOT BE CONSIDERED ADEQUATE PROTECTION AGAINST POLAR BEARS.
Consider carrying a legal weapon - heavy walking stick, ice axe, axe, etc. Realize that it may not be effective.

Bear Behavior

Inflatables - for going ashore.
Bears seem to find inflatables interesting - perhaps they remind them of seals. Several yachts have had inflatables which were tied astern destroyed by polar bears.
speeds of approximately 5 knots for significant distances. This means they can easily overtake a rowed inflatable. You would be very vulnerable while rowing in an inflatable.
I have heard of observations of bears swimming at When we leave the inflatable on the beach for any time, we deflate it, roll it up, and if we are going to be gone long, bury it under a pile of rocks. A second method of getting back to the boat is a good idea. Perhaps a dry suit? Check carefully for bears before setting out for the boat in a dry suit!!

Bringing a firearm into Canada -- You can go on the Canadian Firearms Regulations site and study the requirements and regulations. Keep in mind that laws and regulations are enforced as best understood by those charged with that responsibility. Interpretation can vary despite the best of intentions to follow the letter of the law or regulation. In dealing with authorities and firearms one does not always get the same answer, but as best I understand it:

For Canadian Residents - a Possession / Acquisition Firearms License card is required. This is also true for non-residents - e.g. US Citizens coming into Canada with a firearm for more than a month.A US resident can obtain such a license if he has no criminal record.
You must take the Canadian Firearms Safety course and pass the final exam. There seem to be no exceptions to this. The course is given in various places in Canada.
All firearms which you bring into Canada for more than a month must be registered.
If you are staying for less than a month, you may be able to get a 1 month permit and register the firearm at the border. I do not know what other requirements there may be and you should contact the Canadian firearms and border authorities before you arrive at the border.
Carrying a firearm on board. I believe this is legal if you declare it at the border and they allow you to bring it into the country. It is very important to declare it.
Carrying a firearm ashore - outside the park.
If you are in native lands, you must have a permit to be in the native lands (See Nunatsiavut Government contact information above)
You must have a Polar Bear/Black Bear Protection Permit. For this you must apply to the Government of Newfoundland & Labrador Department of Natural Resources.

What firearm to carry if you decide to carry one and can deal with the permits, etc? -- The authorities recommend a pump action shot gun - with no choke. It can be handled quickly for close-in shooting - which is likely to be the case. if you only have one shotgun, it is recommended that you load the magazine with slugs, keep the chamber empty and learn how to top load the gun with deterrents such as bangers, screamers, plastic slugs and beanbags. Do not mix the ammunition in the magazine. If you have to shoot a charging bear you want every shot to count. Ideally you could have 2 shotguns. 1 with slugs and 1 with deterrents. Buckshot can be problematic, and is not recommended. If you prefer a rifle, it should be a big-game caliber.

375 H&H Magnum would be my preference.
338 Winchester Magnum is not a bad choice.
Some people use a 30-06 though it is pretty light for stopping an angry polar bear at short range.
The Inuit frequently carry a 243 Winchester but this is very light unless you are an expert Inuit hunter. The shot must be extremely well placed to do anything other than make the bear very mad.
It is important to use hunting ammunition with very controlled expansion so that it will give deep penetration. You want a "big game" cartridge.
The big game calibers generally only carry 3 rounds in the magazine. You should keep the chamber clear unless you are about to shoot so you will only have 3 shots before you reload. If you fire a warning shot you will only have 2 left.
Sights should be useable for short range shooting.

You should be very experienced with the firearm. If you do need to use it, there won't be much time to figure it out! If you do have a firearm with you (outside the National Park), you should use it only as the last resort. The bear protection permit requires you to carry other non-lethal methods for scaring bears away. You must do everything you can to avoid confrontations with polar bears. This includes studying and understanding bear behavior as much as possible. Again, If you are forced to kill a polar bear, you should consider it a personal defeat - you did not do your job in avoiding a confrontation or scaring the bear away. You are the guest in this country. It will pay to find your place in harmony with the land and animals you encounter.

Cruising Labrador

By William E. Cook, 2007

In his introduction to the first edition of this guide in 1960, Dr. Paul Sheldon wrote: "Nowhere on the Atlantic Coast of North America is there scenery to compare in grandeur with that found on parts of this coast. But any yachtsman who would see it during its all-too-brief summer will work for what he gets". The scenery is still grand, essentially untouched and unchanged, but cruising there has become easier, at least in some respects. Many areas have recently been surveyed and charted in more detail and most of us have electronic equipment that makes position finding much simpler than it was only a few years ago. But Labrador is still very thinly populated so a crew must be self-sufficient.

The severe beauty of this coast makes it well worth visiting, though it's a long trip there and back. Belle Isle is a thousand miles from Cape Cod and Cape Chidley another 600. To compound the time problem, the season is constricted by weather and ice. The whole western part of the Labrador Sea freezes over in the winter, and this breaks up at greatly varying times from one summer to the next. However, as of this writing in 2007, the amount of pack ice has been below average every year since 1994, so that cruisers have been able to venture north earlier. You can track the daily changes in the pack during the season, as well as the historical data on http://ice-glaces.ec.gc.ca. As the pack ice shrinks, polar bears are losing their preferred location for hunting, and in recent years, appear more frequently ashore, especially in the north. Unlike other bears, they are primarily carnivores, and will stalk and attack humans. The best defense would be a high-powered rifle (and someone who can use it well), but rifles are now prohibited ashore in the new Torngat Mountains National Park, which is ironic, since the Park would like to encourage kayakers and campers. For more ideas on this dilemma, contact the Park office in Nain (see below).

Labrador is outside the realm of the North Atlantic high, and the weather is driven instead by activity along two low-pressure tracks – one through Quebec and Southern Labrador, and the other from Hudson Bay across Northern Labrador. These lows, especially the northern ones, tend to become more frequent and more intense later in the summer, so the conventional advice is to be out of north Labrador by mid-August. Even after the sea ice has gone, icebergs from the West Greenland and Baffin Island glaciers are common. Though among the more spectacular sights in nature, they can be dangerous to a curious boat. Huge chunks break off periodically falling into the sea, setting up substantial waves, or a whole berg may become top heavy and turn over. They are very hard and usually show up on radar. They normally are accompanied by smaller "growlers" which are not good radar targets and can be hard to see by eye, yet are substantial enough to sink a yacht. Growlers are most common in the vicinity of icebergs, especially to leeward, but they can be encountered elsewhere. The prudent skipper will avoid sailing at night if bergs are in the area.

The southern two thirds of Labrador's coast is very sparsely settled. You will see few people outside of the villages and occasional seasonal fishing settlements. The shore is mostly rock, with the striking exception of North Strand, a twenty mile long sand beach north of Cartwright. Throughout this section of the coast there is a wealth of inlets, islands and little passages known as "runs", "rigolets", "rattles" and "tickles". The country is heavily wooded in the south, though the islands and sometimes the immediate coast may be treeless. The northern third of Labrador, beyond the northernmost settlement of Nain, is essentially uninhabited. The trees give way to tundra and the shoreline rises into the bleak drama of the Torngat Mountains and their spectacular fjords with some shoreline cliff faces rising 2000 feet, and 3000 to 5000 foot summits within a few miles of the shore.

The inhabitants of the more southerly villages are European, Newfoundlanders and Inuit, with Inuit predominating in northern villages such as Hopedale and Nain. Davis Inlet is the sole Indian village on the coast. Prior to the 1960's there had been four settlements north of Nain, centered around Moravian missions, but all are now abandoned. Though some residents are shy of strangers, most are curious and friendly; ready to go out of their way to help.

Fishing, particularly for cod, has driven the coastal economy for centuries. Generations of families, who wintered on the island of Newfoundland, traveled to Labrador each summer to fish, establishing small settlements on the off lying islands near the fishing grounds. As early as the 1960's the cod industry was in a steep and steady decline because of over fishing throughout the entire Northwestern Atlantic, and the Canadian government halted all cod fishing in 1992. In recent years, shrimp and crab fishing has grown, and processing plants in a few towns, notably Cartwright and Makkovik, have become the mainstay of the economy, even though the boats themselves are based in Newfoundland or southern Labrador. About half of the adult population of Makkovik worked in the plant in 2007.

For recreational fishing, as of 2001, any type of salmon fishing requires a special license and a guide or outfitter. For trout fishing in coastal waters non-residents are not required to have a fishing license or a guide, but daily bag limits do apply. For inland waters non-residents need a fishing licence and need a guide or outfitter unless within 800 meters of a provincial highway or accompanied by a direct relative who is a resident, and daily bag limits apply. Regulations are different along the Quebec shore.

The major coastal villages include Mary's Harbor, Cartwright, Makkovik, Hopedale and Nain. With airstrips in these villages, Labrador Airways and Provincial Airways have regular air service to them from Goose Bay. In recent summers there have been several flights a day except on Saturdays. Each village has at least one grocery/all purpose store, which will have most staples, although the selection may be erratic. Usually some vegetables and frozen meat are available any time after the first supply ship has gotten through the ice. Diesel fuel is usually available by truck, and fresh water is on or near the pier, though a lot of hose and sometimes a way to adapt to a larger pipe may be needed; a jerry can for ferrying water can be useful. These villages have very modest lodgings. There are no liquor stores north of Mary's Harbour, except in Goose Bay where there are excellent liquor stores, grocery stores and accommodations. Parts for your boat are nonexistent, parts will have to be flown in; and then you will probably have to make the repairs yourself. In short, be self reliant, and if you want it, bring it with you.

That part of Labrador between Red Bay and Cartwright are on Newfoundland time, Atlantic Time plus ˝ an hour, while north of Cartwright is on Atlantic Time.

Though temperatures ashore and well up the major inlets can be quite warm in mid summer, bringing out swarms of voracious mosquitoes and black flies, on the water it is usually cold. Remember, the ice pack has only recently moved off, so the water temperature is still close to 32 degrees F. Average July air temperatures only run in the low 40's and it will be colder than this in northern Labrador. Figure on dressing as if for winter skiing, but with a waterproof outer layer, and you won't be far wrong. A cabin heater is awfully nice to have.

Steve Loutrel's article on anchoring is required study for any who would venture into the deep, rocky fjords of the Torngats. Further south anchoring problems are usually not so severe, but I would strongly recommend at least one anchor known to work in rocky and/or kelp strewn bottoms – the best types I know of would be the Bruce, the Spade, or the traditional kedge, or fisherman’s, anchor. Since weather changes are often more abrupt this far north, two anchors and/or an anchor watch may help to avoid a midnight surprise.

The Canadian government has re-surveyed and re-charted much of the coast in the past twenty years, including everything from Hamilton Inlet northward to beyond Nain. On many of these charts, there are still large unsounded areas, and you are on your own there. North of Port Manvers Run, the charts are based on older surveys, and some of these only show a single line of soundings, sometimes with a note reading “normally safe for small craft.” However, the sounded tracks and the charted land masses are not at the charted latitude and longitude, but usually about a quarter mile off , a discrepancy which your chartplotter will make glaringly evident! At the risk of stating the obvious, electronic charts do no more than attempt to replicate the best information on the paper charts, so they show the same erroneously located land and soundings.

There is continuous VHF marine broadcasting for weather and ice from the Coast Guard Stations located in St. Anthony and Goose Bay. "Labrador Coast Guard Radio", located in Goose Bay, has four repeaters, at St. Lewis (channel 24), Cartwright (channel 83), Hopedale (channel 26) and Nain (channel 24). To the north of Nain one needs to pay attention to the schedule of SSB forecasts given in the U.S. publications: Worldwide Marine Weather Broadcasts and or the Canadian Radio Aids to Marine Navigation, Atlantic, which lists both the Canadian Forces Halifax and Newfoundland Weather Center; which broadcasts ice conditions twice daily. Ice information can be found at: http://ice-glaces.ec.gc.ca

There is no Coast Guard station in the thousand miles between St. Anthony and Iqaluit, on Baffin Island. It might be a good precaution to keep the nearer of these informed of your whereabouts; even though you should plan on self-rescue from any situation, it can not hurt to have someone know where to look for you. In this regard the Coast Guard encourages people to file a “sail plan” with them at St. Anthony Coast Guard and Labrador Coast Guard on VHF. Once north of Nain this needs to be done on SSB or satellite phone. Be aware, though, that if you have a plan on file that calls for regular check-in, and you are unable to report on schedule, they may initiate a costly search.

On average only a handful of yachts reach Labrador in any given summer. Yet for the well-prepared boat and crew that does get there, it is an experience of a lifetime.”

The Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve was established in 2007 and covers almost 10000 square kilometers from Saglek Bay north to Cape Chidley. It includes all land within Labrador north of Saglek, beginning with Big Island, up to the SE part of Killinek Island. The sea and fiords are not included in the Park, so, paradoxically, you are allowed to carry a rifle aboard your boat, but not to bring it ashore, when it is most likely to be needed. For more information about the Park, their website is http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/nl/torngats/Index_E.asp; E-mail is torngats.info@pc.gc.ca; Telephone 709-922-1290

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