Pilot Press - Cruising Guide to The Labrador Updates

The Cruising Guide to The Labrador

Updates from the Summers of 2006 - 2011

The current edition of the Cruising Guide to the Labrador is dated March 2006 – check the date on the contents page for date of your edition.

At the very end of this update is a very good discussion "On the Matter of Polar Bears" by Finley Perry, January 2009, in collaboration with Steve Loutrel, who has sailed to and climbed in the Torngat region, and Angus Simpson at the Torngat Mountians National Park. It is important reading for anyone who sails Labrador, particularly north of Nain.

In October 2006 a question was sent to the Canadian Ice Service concerning icebergs, or more accurately, the lack thereof. Their reply: “The number of icebergs found off the east cost of Canada in any given year is affected by a number of things: 1) Greenland and Canadian Arctic iceberg production in previous years; 2) the number of icebergs drifting southward through Davis Strait at the beginning of the winter season; 3) the extent of winter sea ice along the Labrador Coast and to the northeast of Newfoundland; and 4) wind patterns and sea surface temperatures at the beginning and the end of the winter season. Of these factors, the extent of sea ice that develops along the Labrador coast is key. Icebergs drifting down the east coast are frozen into the sea ice pack during the winter, and the ice serves to protect the bergs from disintegrating by North Atlantic winter storm wave action. Greater sea ice extent means a greater number of ice bergs will survive the winter through to the next spring. During the past few years, sea ice extent along the Labrador coast and to the northeast of Newfoundland has been less than normal. This is partly due to a long-term trend related to global warming and partly due to natural variability and North Atlantic climate cycles. Likely, after a sea ice minimum such as the one we have been experiencing, extents will recover to normal or slightly above normal within the next few years. However, due to the negative trend associated with global warming, sea ice extent recovery may be less than seen in previous decades. This means that the number of bergs found off the east cost of Canada should increase in number within the next few years, but probably won’t reach the peak numbers and the extreme southern latitudes of the past heavy iceberg years.”

The Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve has been established and extends from Saglek Bay north to Cape Chidley and includes all land within Labrador north of Saglek Bay. There is no marine component to the park at this time.

Editors note: See discussion of "On The Matter Of Polar Bears" at the end of is up-date.

Miscellaneous Notes:

A new edition to the Cruising Guide to The Labrador is dated February 2012.

Editor's Comment: Most of the Canadian charts covering north of Port Manvers Run have been replaced with new charts, expanding the 5000 series. A new Canadian Chart Catalog will be available sometime in 2012.

2011 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus "Since my last trip to Labrador, in 1998, there are noticeably few boats along this coast, virtually none. In '98 there were many fishing boats steaming up and down the cost which provide some form of security. Now you are really on your own with no other boats in sight."

2008 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog We were in several CAP centers and in each one the worker thought that federal support for personnel, especially summer workers, would not be continued in 2009. Now that most families have a computer at home, few people actually use the Centers. Everyone believes the computers will be passed to a school or library for local use, but the personnel funding will be discontinued. Therefore, to insure internet connection in the future one will need to carry the access onboard in some form and not count on the availability of the CAP Centers.

2008 Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse A note on my comments about wifi. None of the locations we have used would show up directly on the computer. We always have to use our high gain antenna, connected via a 600mw access point.

Harrington Harbour A - 80

Jack Towle in 2009 onboard Sisyphus: The ferry arrives Thursdays and Saturdays and ties to the west side of the government wharf. Otherwise one can tie there. Most of the activity occurs around the wharf with a fish plant which was thriving at the time with cod, scallops and halibut. Ice, fuel (no jerry cans can be filled due to EPA regulations), groceries from two stores and fresh fish are available. Ice from the fish plant was saltwater ice, especially for icing the fish and lasts considerably longer than regular ice. However, does not go so well with Mount Gay. There is no daylight savings time in this area - with a time differential of one and one half hours from Boston. This is an excellent place for a crew change with a water taxi to and from Chivery to connect to the airport. (Air Labrador 1 800-563-3042)

Baie de Tabatiere A - 50

2009 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus: The channel is still well marked and the fish plant doing well. The northern face of the dock was undergoing reconstruction. We tied to the southern end with good protection and under the lee of an over-ripe garbage barge.

Baie du Portage du Canot A - 35

2009 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus: We anchored at end of soundings in west arm with 35 feet. It's a beautiful anchorage and well protected.

Towle's Hideaway A - 35 (new) 51° 15.8N, 58° 19.7'W

2009 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus: We anchored in the SE end of this previously unnamed cove on the northeast side of Ile Cumberland with good holding in 35 feet. Total protection plus beautiful surroundings.

Passage to the east of Ile Cumberland into Baie Robin 51° 15.8N, 58° 19.5'W

2009 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus: They were convinced there was a useable passage thru the tickle into Baie Robin. "We explored the area by dinghy and hand held depth sounder at high tide and confirmed the comment in the guide. The limiting depth was 5.5 feet and would require extreme caution and a shoal draft boat".

Baie Robin (51° 15.4'N, 58° 18.5'W)

2009 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus: There is an arm off the SW end of Baie Robin in which we found good anchoring in depths of 25-30 ft of water in the northern bite at the extreme west end.

Baie de Jacques Cartier A - 15

2009 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus: At the very head of this bay one can anchor in 25- 30 feet with good holding and absolute protection from all directions. At low tide the perimeter of the cove has a perfect circle of large boulders encompassing this quiet anchorage, probably the results of glacier action.

2009 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus: carried a minimum of 45 feet through East Passage (51° 16.2'N, 58° 11'W) north of Mistanoque Island.

L'Anse Au Clair: A - 4

2009 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus: there is good protection inside the government wharf from everything except strong SW winds. The wharf ws in good repair, fresh water was available. The motel, about one mile up the road served dinner and arranged showers at a building across the road. It's not especially attractive area, but a convent stop if in the area.

Red Bay, Western Arm A – 1 (51º42.9N, 56º27.7W)

2011 - Alison Nichols onboard Andante: there is an inside spot at the wharf for one boat and offers protection in storm conditions. Two small markets and a nice restaurant in 2011.

2011 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus: There is still no fresh water at the Government wharf. There is room for one boat on the easterly side, on the southern end, of the Government wharf. The Town Hall has wifi connection. The Whaler Restaurant is still serving good food and drink.

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution Good protection, except in Easterly winds. Easy access even at night in fog. Bottom weedy, but adequate holding.

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse Via the Whalers Restaurant you can find someone to take you on a land tour. We used Freeman Butts, and the three hour ride and commentary was fascinating. Public pier is fine for dinghies. Probably better off at anchor for the big boat. Library has internet (wifi and their own PCs). Good holding where described in the guide (hard mud).

Henley Harbour B - 5

2011 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus. The passage west of Whale Island and Stage Island is marked with a yellow International buoy plus a green off Flat Island and a red off Black Pt.

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse - chart appears accurate, although detail is lacking. Good holding with enough room to swing 400' diameter circle if you pick your spot to drop carefully. Totally deserted. The cove to the north of Henley Island is currently the base for uranium mine exploration.

North East Arm, Horn Bay, Niger Sound B - 15

2007 – Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui. There are two obvious anchorages in Horn Bay. Northwest Arm is subject to williwaws in strong west winds and we had trouble getting the anchor to hold. On another occasion we tried North East Arm and found it to be perfect anchorage with shelter from all but strong southerly winds. We anchored in the north east corner in 12 feet with good holding on a mud bottom. Excellent hiking on shore. An added treat was to see a mother bear and two cubs eating grass and searching for mussels.

Battle Harbour B - 25

2011 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus. Unfortunately, the need for the Historic Trust to raise funds has become obvious. The general store no longer exists; it's now a gift shop selling a small amount of liquor. Showers are now $5.00 and a tour of the buildings is $9.00. The area above the general store is now the "restaurant" serving food community style. Lunch (a bowl of bean soup, cookies and tea cost $20.00) don't go there for the food.

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse - docks can handle several yachts at once (and will arrange rafting if required). It's open from mid-June to mid-September. The collegial style meals (with interesting visitors) are a real treat. Their phone can be used after business hours, and it has a dial up (slow) internet connection. A few items are available in the "General Store" to tide you over if you run out of basics.

Mary's Harbour B - 30

2011 - Alison Nichols onboard Andante. There are two small markets with basic supplies and a liquor store. The internet and phones are available in town. A new crab plant is being built, to be opened in 2013 and will have showers, laundry and fresh water available.

2010 - Richard Hudson onboard Issuma: To sit out the remnants of a tropical storm (Earl), Issuma (a 50 foot, 21 ton schooner) anchored 8 miles from Mary's Harbor in an unnamed cove (52° 22.3N, 055° 59.0W) in St Lewis Inlet. Cove provided good protection from NE to WSW in 16m, mud bottom.

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse Good holding in 15-20' off Battle Island ferry dock. We found a usable wifi signal at anchor. Three small groceries stores with basics are in town. Pay phone at the "hotel" and Internet at the library.

Fox Harbour B - 35

2011 - Alison Nichols onboard Andante. Showers, phone and internet are available at the fish plant when it is open. Several small markets/general stores are in town. The wharfs are in excellent condition in 2011.

2008 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog The fish plant only processes crab now so closes in mid-July when crabbing is over in this area. The shower in the fish plant is free and good. Water is pond water. There is a washer and dryer in the Harbour Authority office, open "all the time". There is no water or electricity on the public dock. The wharfs are all in excellent shape. Internet is at the CAP center, a twenty five minute walk from the dock, at the very end of town in the school. There are two convenience stores in town, both about a twenty minute walk from the wharf. The truck with produce comes once a week, maybe. One of the stores has a bakery with fresh bread, they also serve coffee and tea cakes.

Bottom Arm, Port Charlotte new 52º 27’N, 55º 46’W Chart 4701 Insert

2007 – Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui found excellent shelter here from NW to NW gales anchoring in 40 feet in the middle of the basin. The holding was good in mud with some weed and the low surrounding hills did not create any williwaws.

William’s Harbour B - 60

2007 Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui. A disastrous fire in July 2007 completely destroyed the docks at William’s Harbour.

St. Francis Harbour Bight B – 65

2007 Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui. St. Francis Harbour is rather exposed to the SE. An alternative is St. Francis Harbour Bight, also shown on the detailed insert on chart 4701. The Bight is protected from all but a strong NW wind. The entrance is straight forward. Anchor in 35 feet at the head of the bay with good holding. We took lines to the south and north shores to provide added stability as a strong SE funneled down the cove. Great hiking on shore.

Ship Harbour B - 75

2011 - Alison Nichols onboard Andante. The wharf is still useable in 2011. Some houses are still used as summer cabins.

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle The fish factory pier remains in serviceable condition, with more than 15 feet LW at the southwest face. The flies are still voracious.

Pinsent Arm B - 80

2008 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog The small fish plant wharf is in good shape; they process whelk, crab and scallops and expect to be open until mid-September. They have fuel and pond water. The entrance is marked with red and green lighted buoys.

Snug Harbour B - 90

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle The deserted pier in the SW arm has a loading boom extending over its seaward face that made the pier unusable. We anchored near the pier at the end of the arm in 50 - 60 feet, mud and stone; fair holding.

Lady Arm B – 97

2007 - Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui. The store at Lady Arm has closed. Supplies can be obtained by taking the ferry from here to Charlottetown at 09:30 on Monday’s and Thursdays and returning at 16:30. Return trip cost $18.00. This could work for a crew change as there is air service to Charlottetown.

Hawk Harbour B - 105

2011 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus. Whale processing plant is still standing (in ruins) as were the two abandoned whale boats.

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse. To the east of the rocks at the entrance to the harbor we found 26 feet of water half way between the rocks and the shore and 17 feet to the west of the rocks, again in mid channel. Corrected to low tide,

Meta Fog in Eagle Harbour
Photo by Ellie Adams

Eagle Harbour B - 106

2008 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog We anchored between the rock with its surrounding ledges and the shore to the north. When we anchored we thought we were on rocks the anchor dragged more than usual before biting in. However, we held firmly in 15-20 knots from the NW. On pulling the anchor up it was an aggregate of thick mud, small stones and shells. This is really thick stuff; it took a while to wash it all off!

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse We were not happy anchoring where indicated in the guide. Instead dropped the pick in 56 feet of water, pulling uphill to 42 feet of water 175 feet back from the anchor and used more than the normal amount of scope.

Squasho Run B – 108

2011 - Tony Gooch onboard Taonui + Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus. report The green buoy is on the western side and the red buoy is on the eastern side of the Run.

2007 Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui found that the bouys in the Run have been reversed from the positions given in the Guide. Green was on the western side of the channel and red was on the eastern side.

Mullins Cove new 53º 44’N, 56º 27’W Chart 5133 and detailed plan on 4712

2007 – Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui. This is a large bay just south of Cape North that provides good shelter from West and NW winds, particularly when going north when rounding Cape North into a stiff NW wind which can be a struggle. We anchored in 20 feet deep in the NW corner to keep out of the swell that does make into the bay. The holding is good in sandy-mud.

American Tickle: B - 120

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle As noted previously, we were unable to identify the charted rock at the north end of Long Island, even with a deep swell running at half tide with everything else in the vicinity breaking heavily. This rock to us seems to be non-existent.

Punchbowl B – 125

2011 - Alison Nichols onboard Andante. The wharf is still very sturdy, although some cleats are missing.

2007 – Coryn and Tony Gooch on board Taonui. The only buoy in the entrance channel is a green buoy marking the shoal off the southern point as you enter. The buildings are an eyesore and still in the process of slow demolition by people from Black Tickle. The docks are still in good condition. We rode out a SE gale in comfort, tied inside the outer dock with lines off to the root dock.

Bateu B - 140

2011 - Tony Gooch onboard Taonui. Strong NW winds tend to accelerate around the steep hill on the southwest side of the inner harbor. In such winds it is better to anchor on the northeast side of the outer harbor where the wind is less and the holding better.

2008 - Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse We found the inner basin not quite as ideal as described in the guide. If it were to blow hard from SE, I suspect it would be very bouncy with waves/swells making right into the basin (we had a calm night). There are a couple of up-to-date looking cabins, but most are abandoned or blown down with scattered debris. Not an inviting spot now.

Indian Tickle B - 165

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle In 2008 the three buoys that mark the way through the tickle ((two reds and a green) were still in place as described in the guide.

Black Tickle (Salmon Bight) B -141

2011 - Alison Nichols onboard Andante. Fish plant at Black Tickle is doing well. There is one grocery in town.

2008 - Jim Hawkins onboard Meta Fog We were told by a friend who lives in Goose Bay that we could get "everything needed" here. We didn't need much, but found the community very friendly. A steady stream of people came to the dock to talk. The fish plant manager and his staff could not have been more accommodating. We paid $10 a day for electricity. Diesel and gasoline are available for a few hours each day at the "gas station" adjacent to the wharf. (Ed. The "unfriendly attitude" comment in the guide will be removed in the next edition.)

Curlew Harbour C - 12

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle Good holding (mud) in 35 feet. Good swimming in 50 (F) degree water. Few insects.

Cartwright C - 15

2011 - Tony Gooch onboard Taonui. The closure of the ferry service to and from Lewisporte, Nfld, has killed any tourist business. The town looks to be economically stagnant. The enrollment at the school is declining and there are few jobs for the young people. The fish plant is still processing crab, whelk and some fish, but only 3 or 4 boats are working out of Cartwright now.

The airport is still used for regular and emergency medical service to Goose Bay, but there is no longer scheduled passenger service. The only practical way to make a crew change is to use the weekly ferry to and from Goose Bay. It arrives in Cartwright on Saturday and departs for Goose Bay on Sunday.

The dinghy dock, on the east side of the fish plant, can only really be used 1 ½ hours either side of high tide. A stern anchor for the dinghy is pretty much a necessity. Alternatively a dinghy can be left at one of the ladders on either side of the ferry dock, or at the Marine Center.

Diesel is delivered by truck from the garage at the base of the old Marine Center wharf. Water can be obtained from the fish plant wharf, but in summer there is often a boil water advisory, so if you fill your tanks an addition of chlorine is advisable. The Northern Store provides a good range of fresh and frozen food and other necessities. Fruit and vegetables arrive on Wednesdays. This store has a limited supply of beers, wines and liquor, and an ATM machine. There is another small store on the eastern side of the bay, about 3 kms from the main part of town, which has a limited range of fresh baked breads.

Propane bottles can be exchanged or filled at the Dewey Gas Station, opposite the Cartwright Hotel near the airport.

If you are expecting a package, everything eventually comes via General Delivery - Canada Post, no matter how it was shipped originally. And this mail arrives at midnight Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays.

2011 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus. Due to the extension of the highway to Cartwright there is no longer scheduled air service to Cartwright. It is now possible to drive from Goose Bay to Cartwright, on a rough gravel road, about a 4-5 hour drive.

2011 - Alison Nichols onboard Andante. The fish plant seems to be thriving. Nothing is left at the Marine Service Center, but the wharf is in good condition. Northern Hotel & Pub is under new ownership (summer 2011) with plans to open a restaurant. The Mug-Up has closed. With completion of the road to Cartwright from Blanc Sablon, the government has mandated that all freight come by road. Propane tanks can be filled and the Northern is an excellent grocery store.

2010 - Richard Hudson onboard Issuma: Fuel is available via fuel truck for quantities of at least 200 liters. Talk to Woodwwards Oil Limited at the end of the government dock. Depending on which fuel truck is on which dock and how big a yacht's fuel fill is, a yacht may need to move to the ferry dock (when the ferry is not there) to refuel. Water is available at the dock near the fish plant (around the corner from the ferry dock). In August, 2010, there was a Boil Water Advisory on water in Cartwright (which I understand to be a common thing), so if filling water tanks here, you should chlorinate the tanks. Supplies seem as per the guide. Northern market right next to the ferry terminal is a short walk from dinghies. Good inventory of frozen and basic items. Fresh veggies and fruit looked a little picked over (on Monday - truck due Wed.). There is a hardware / building supplies store in Cartwright with some stainless and galvanized fasteners.

Internet: Internet access (but no wifi) is available at the library. Wifi is available at the Northside Motel (which has a pub that opens at 7PM), and the signal generally reaches to the restaurant next door as well.

2008 Steve Dashew onboard Wind Horse The harbor is busy with ferry and container ship traffic, but good holding anchored near the red buoy about ¼ mile off the ferry terminal. The dinghy "dock" requires coming ashore ideally just before high tide, say 1.5 hours prior, and leaving by similar time frame after. Stern anchor for the dinghy is pretty much a necessity. You will see several dozen local small boats doing same. The Marine Center has closed and its travel lift has been sold and removed.

Supplies seem as per the guide. Northern market right next to the ferry terminal is a short walk from dinghies. Good inventory of frozen and basic items. Fresh veggies and fruit looked a little picked over (on Monday - truck due Wed.).

2006 - Robert Pirie writes “In Cartwright there are no facilities on the Marine Center wharf except electricity, although I suppose fuel could be delivered. Rafting up in the miniscule inner part can be an adventure. Water is available at the Ferry Wharf, but getting along side there can also be an adventure.”

White Bear Islands new 54º27.7N, 56º55.7’W

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution A beautiful and remote spot, but offering limited shelter. The cove east of South Island has the best protection, but is still open to the east; we found a good sand bottom in 50’ of water.

Smokey Tickle C - 85

2011 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus. If approaching Smokey from the south in a southeast breeze the entrance north of Smokey Head can be dangerous. When approaching Smokey Tickle from the north, passing between Marks Island and Long Pt., one will not see the old Service Center wharf, for it is on the south side of the southern most small island, until you round that island.

2011 - Alison Nichols onboard Andante. The west side of wharf at the old Marine Service Center is still the best side to use, but the lower horizontal boards are missing as well as many spikes. One needs fenderboards.

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle We found no problems on entering via the SE entrance using Canadian chart #5042. The shoal areas marked on the chart and are clearly visible in high sunshine. The least depth (near the old fishing depot) is about 14 feet at half tide. We found secure anchorage near the old boat ramp in 25 feet, sticky brown mud.

Emily Harbour C - 90

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle Anchoring in the eastern most cove is in grass and mud in 35-40 feet, good holding.

Webeck Harbor: C - 100

2011 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus. We anchored in 10-12 feet of water inside Harbour Island and between the islet and the point on Grave Bay and had ample protection. If the wind would have come around to the north this area would be untenable and one would have to move to the other side.

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution We found good protection and holding ground in the cove on the NW side.

Mesher's Harbour D-5

2011 - Alison Nichols onboard Andante. Shallowest point in entry was 16 feet. Great protection from all winds where we sheltered from Tropical Storm Irene along with local fishing boat from Makkovik.

Maklkovik D - 25

2011 - Jack Towle onboard Sisyphus. The fisherman's Co-op is still in full operation processing crab, turbit and whatever else is available. The Co-op has showers available. There is still scheduled air service and diesel fuel is available. Peter, the plant manager, has been very helpful. Jim Anderson, the longtime "mayor", who was known to most yachtsmen who stopped in Makkovik, died last year.

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle We have repeatedly found this village to be the most hospitable on the entire Labrador coast. Diesel fuel is available by truck from Martin Oil Co (business phone: 709-924-2117) is delivered to the fish factory piers. The truck nozzle just fits into a standard 1 ½ inch fuel fill and works well if you pump slowly. Water is available by hose on the inner (south) side of the steamer dock. Check with the fish plant foreman to connect the hose.

This village can often be better than Nain for making a crew change, for the airfield has fewer restrictions (being away from the town a bit) and the twin otters of Labrador Air and Provincial Air seem to have a much easier time at making their scheduled landings here.

Napakataktalik (Manuel) Island D - 51 (55° 32'N, 60° 14.7'W) new

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle Shown on Canadian chart #5047 this deep cove in the center of this saddleback island is located 5 nautical miles northeast of Hopedale. The anchorage is safe in wins N through E to S. The chart is accurate, slowly shoaling depths all the way in. The best anchorage appers to be in the SE portion of the inner cove in 15 feet LW, with good holding in sand and widely scattered small stones.

Cape Harrigan Harbour D - 56

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle We had good holding in mud and weed near the 8-meter sounding near the SE corner of the harbor.

Natuashish 55° 57'N, 61° 06W (D - 60)

The relocation of the Davis Inlet settlement was completed in 2004 to the northern end of Daniel Rattle. It is now called Nataushish, commonly referred to as Sango Bay - at least by the airplane pilots. The new location has apparently not changed the behavior of its citizens. The community is located near Sango Bay, about two miles from the ferry wharf, so there are somewhat fewer kids hanging around the wharf than there were at the old village. The RMCP still advise not to stop here.

2010 - Bill Cook on board Resolution was advised by a Provincial Judge, when they met in Battle Harbour, that Natuashish has a "controversial" alcohol ban. The ban was upheld by a vote last March.

2006 - Andy O'Grady on board Balaena: The wharf is exposed to winds from the southeast through north and northwest. There is an anchorage about ½ mile south of the wharf, inside a small island and off a stone jetty where locals launch their small boats. We anchored west of the island in 7 meters with good holding in mud. That location is exposed to winds from northeast through northwest. The water shallows rapidly upon approaching the jetty.

Tikigatsiak Cove E - 6

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle The directions in the guide for entering this perfect gunk hole are spot-on. The narrowest part of the entry around the "rocky point" is especially important. The deep water (2 fathoms) is indeed 20-25 yards from shore…no more, no less!

Dawes Harbor, Kikiktaksoak Island E - 40

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution The northern cove is better sheltered, but swinging room is limited.

Amity Harbour F - 5

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle The very clear water made it easy to anchor over sand in 35-40 feet in the SW corner, with very little kelp. The weed on the fisherman anchor when pulled up was angel hair - and not much of that. The river that flows into the NW end of the harbor tumbles down the rock in a bridal veil of small waterfalls…good for bathing…and filling your water jugs.

Cod Fish Cove NEW 57° 37'N, 62° 00'W

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle On advise from a local fisherman we decided to use this cove to wait out some nasty SE weather. It appears on Canadian chart 4764 with a single line of (accurate) soundings. In the easterly end the bottom shoals up slowly from 200 feet to 30 feet some 400 yards from shore and then gradually from there up to the beach. The bottom is sand with some weed, good holding. This is a secure anchorage, open only to the SW.

Bear Cove NEW 58° 28'N, 61° 18'W

2011 - Alison Nichols onboard Andante. Anchored in 20-25 feet, sand and light kelp. This is great alternative to nearby Okak when wind is from the north.

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle This previously unnamed cove is located on the SE corner of Higher Bight (on the eastern side of Paul Island) and is shown on Canadian chart #5052. It provides good protection in winds N through E to SW. The best anchorage is in the NE corner, where we canchored in 40 - 50 feet some 200 yards from the shore. The bottom is mud with only moderate weed. We lay here comfortably for two nights during an easterly blow. At various times we noted at least four very healthy-looking black bears foraging in the berry-patches on the west-facing hills - thus the name for this cove.

Hebron F - 35

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution Considerable progress on the restoration of the mission building in 2007; new sills, and framing on much of the structure. Two carpenters from Newfoundland working, with the promise of six more from Nain, but these had not arrived in early August. Polar bears in the area; Tom Dawe, the lead carpenter, had been stalked by one, and eventually had to shoot it.

Saglek Bay: Western Harbor F - 45 (58/31.5N, 62/46.0W)
2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution This harbor is between Shuldham and Handy Islands, is reasonably protected and has good holding in 25’.

Eastern Harbour (Northeast Cove), Big Island

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle This cove is located in the northeaster part of Eastern Harbour, different than the anchorage currently described in the guide. Both are located between Big Island and Handy Island. The entire cove is uniformly deep and bold, shoaling very gradually up to the beach in the northern end, with no apparent dangers except for the charted boulders and ledges that make out from the SW point. The bottom is composed of sandy patches scattered among heavy kelp. Pick a comfortable depth, pick a sandy spot, and drop your anchor. Safe for winds SW thru N to SE.

St. Johns Harbor F- 45

**2011 - Alison Nichols onboard Andante.** This is the base camp for the Torngat Mountains National Park. It consisted in 2011 of mostly tents, but the first permanent structure was completed in 2011 - housing a dining hall, labs and offices. The Park asks that you check in with them, there is a lot of helpful information and good interaction with those there.

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle At the end of this two mile long fior, on the southern side of Saglek Bay, is the new site for the "Torngat National Park and Reserve" Welcome Center. In 2008 this translated into a camp site with pup tents and four prefab canvas buildings set on wooden platforms. The entire area was surrounded by a "polar bear fence". The plan is to have the Center open for 6 to 8 weeks in July and August.

2008 - Steve Loutrel onboard Adelie The Torngat Park supplies training and a DVD on how to co-exist "safely" with polar bears. According to the Park one can not carry firearms ashore within the Park. One piece of advice from them is that "if attacked by a predatory polar bear do not play dead, fight back for your life". How to do that without a firearm is an interesting discussion!

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution In 2007, this was the site of a large summer encampment of officials of the Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve. They expected to return in subsequent summers, as it is one of the best camping places, with dry, level ground, and abundant fresh water. For bear defense, they turn on an electric perimeter fence at night, and have designated “bear wardens” who can shoot a bear if necessary.

Saglek anchorage

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution It is possible to change crews here, using a chartered flight to the air strip at the NORAD base. Workers at the base have been willing to provide transport between the air strip and the shore.

Ramah Bay F - 55

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle The approach is straightforward. Stand off about 300 yards as you round the rocky point marked "Ramah" on Canadian Chart #4769 and follow the shoreline down to the charted site of the "Moravian Sta." And anchor in sand and mud in 30 - 50 feet, just outboard of a steep sandbar that parallels the shore. We lay to two anchors set in a Bahamian Moor and wee comfortable throughout the night of random gusts from almost every quarter. (Three polar bears and a bull caribou shared the anchorage with us.)

Schooner Cove, Nachvak Fiord G - 5

2008 - Mike Arms onboard Brendan's Isle This cove, actually more of a shallow roadstead, provides an adequate lee in northerly winds, even though the high hills on either side deflect the gusts in all directions. The 40 foot deep shelf provides fair holding in mud and heavy kelp with occasional sandy spots.

Eclipse Channel: G - 15

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution The cove NW of Miller Peninsula has good holding in sand and weed. It is shallow, with 9’ LW just inside the entrance, but the bottom slopes very gradually, so one might be able to go farther in than we did.

Tunnissugjuak Inlet G - 20

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution The cove on the north side, about four miles west of Clark Harbor, has good holding in heavy kelp and mud.

McLelan Strait: G - 30

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution The currents here are predictable, using the tide tables for Port Burwell. Since the tidal range at the west end of the Strait is so much higher than at the east end, it is the height at the west end that drives the current. As it happens, the time of high tide at the east end (as tabulated for Williams Harbor) occurs at about the same time, but this time is of minor importance. The west-going current will begin 3-4 hours after high water at Port Burwell, when the level there has fallen below that at the east end. The east-going current begins 3-4 hours after low water at Port Burwell, when the level there is above that at the east end, and rising. The current is strongest in the narrows near the west end of the Strait, so time your passage for a moderately fair current in that section.

Port Burwell new 60º25’N, 64º51’W

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution Mission Cove is the best anchorage, with room for one boat in the wide part near the abandoned buildings. It is about 50’ deep here, and the bottom is mud and kelp with good holding. We had a swimming visit by a polar bear, which was exciting, but uneventful.

Button Islands new 60º38’N, 64º41’W

2007 - Bill Cook on board Resolution Though not the most hospitable place, with shores of bare black rock, and strong currents, we found a cove out of most of the current on MacColl Island about 1 ¾ mi. NE of the charted anchorage at Observation Island. Depth was 25’ and the holding good in mud and kelp.

On the Matter of Polar Bears

By Finley Perry January 2009
In collaboration with Steve Loutrel, who has sailed to and climbed in the Torngat region,
and Angus Simpson at the Torngat Mountians National Park

The subject of bear viewing and personal protection is a complex one. To begin with, the wilderness is not a zoo. Animal sightings are not predictable, and can occur unexpectedly. Bears are numerous north of Nain, and one will see them - both polar bear and black bear. It makes sense to prepare for an encounter.

If not "endangered", polar bears have at best a challenging existence. They are adapted to the far north of frozen seas, hunting seals on the sea ice for much of the year, and living on whatever can be scrounged ashore in the warmer months. They live where food is scarce. Anything that looks like a meal is worth investigating. For whatever reason, polar bear populations on the Labrador and Baffin coasts are reported to be increasing in recent years. It could be that the populations are growing, or, perversely, it might be that changes in the extent of sea ice, or other environmental factors, have stranded concentrated static or even shrinking populations in certain areas, making these populations appear to be increasing.

Polar bears are meat eaters. Their primary diet is seals taken on the sea ice. They are opportunistic predators. They may kill and eat when they find food regardless of hunger. In summer they will scavenge as evidenced by berries in their scat, and it is safe to assume that along the Labrador coast in the summer and fall before freeze-up, they are generally always hungry. They will attack when an opportunity appears favorable. For example, "opportunity" might exist if potential prey appears weaker or slower than the hunter, or separated from a protective group. A single scared tourist hiking across the landscape might constitute such opportunity. A pack or group of "prey" keeping close together would appear more troublesome.

Black bears on the other hand are omnivorous and in fact most of their diet is vegetation. It varies, but 20 or 30% of their diet may be meat. Black bears may not be as predatory as polar bears, but they make up for it in unpredictability. Keep in mind, as you look around at the north Labrador landscape, that there is not a lot to eat in this place.

The native Inuit will not go into the country without a rifle. At the Parks Canada Saglek base camp, those venturing out of camp for research or recreation are accompanied by an armed "Bear Monitor". On the other hand, in Canadian national parks, no visitors may carry firearms. In the Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve a special agreement allows the carrying or use of firearms only by native Inuit.

Considering that the carrying or use of firearms outside the Park requires, at best, a cumbersome permitting procedure for non-Canadians as well as Canadian citizens, and, if used less than expertly, a gun could well make an otherwise innocuous bear encounter truly dangerous…then what other protective measures can be employed?

When going ashore, go in groups and keep close together. Keep a very close watch for bears, always scan the surroundings, be aware of where you are most likely to find a bear. You don't want to surprise a bear or be surprised by a bear.
Before going ashore, scan the landscape carefully for signs of animals. If you see a bear, chances are he has seen you and curiosity will bring him to the shore giving both parties a good look at each other. Do not go ashore where you see bears. Either move to another harbor or simply stay on board.
If using an inflatable dinghy, consider taking along a second inexpensive inflatable "raft" to enable a safe return to your vessel in the event a curious bear "playfully" punctures your primary transportation while you are away walking. See Steve Loutrel's notes below.
Don't leave trash and garbage ashore. Avoid things that will attract bears when ashore -- for example, cleaning fish or game. Avoid cooking if possible.
Look for signs of animal presence - tracks, scat, fresh kill.
If you find a fresh kill, stay away from it. Don't get between a bear and its food.
Try not to surprise any wildlife. Make noise. Use care when approaching blind corners.
In the same vein, be aware of wind direction. If you spot an animal, and he sees you, try to stay upwind of him to give him notice of your presence and a scent of what you are.
Carry noise-makers, "bear bangers" - perhaps a flare pistol - to frighten off an animal that comes too close. See Steve Loutrel's notes below.
If you encounter a bear, keep your movements slow (relatively) and deliberate. Do not run.
Don't get between a mother and cubs. A mother with her cub is especially dangerous. If she sees you as a risk to her cub you are in an extremely dangerous situation.
Do not encourage an attack by making eye contact. Move off slowly. Speak assertively.
Pay constant attention to your surroundings. If a bear appears interested and / or approaches you, try to scare him away as early as possible. You do not want to observe him up close!!!!

Those who make camp ashore will sooner or later have a bear encounter in camp. For this reason, Parks Canada discourages kayaking along the coast without a mother ship for sleeping. Camping on the beaches, particularly in the northern part of the Torngat Park is dangerous. The issue is not that "you might have a bear encounter, but you will have a polar bear encounter". Those who cruise the coast in a yacht will find bears along the shore or swimming off a beach, but it would be most unusual to hear of one coming aboard or attempting to board (see point on opportunity above). If your plans include extensive activity ashore, consider enlisting the services of a native guide / bear monitor. There is much to be learned of the country, customs, and wildlife from these individuals in addition to the peace of mind they provide.

One must do everything one can to avoid confrontations with polar bears. This includes studying and understanding polar bear behavior as much as possible. If you are forced to kill a polar bear, it should be considered a personal defeat - you did not do your job in avoiding a confrontation or scaring the bear away. You must report the event to the authorities. There will be an investigation to ensure that the circumstances were unavoidable and that it was in self defense. If there is strong evidence that the actions were unnecessary and irresponsible, then charges may be laid.

For a further excellent discussion on eastern Canadian Arctic wildlife in general and bear encounters in particular download the Parks Canada visitor information on polar bear encounters for Auyuittuk National Park in Baffin which you can find using the Parks Canada website http://www.pc.gc.ca. Use http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/nl/torngats/visit/secur_e.asp to access extensive and useful information on the Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve. Finally, make note of bear and other wildlife sightings (time, location, lat/lon, gender, behavior, weather, etc), and report them to Parks Canada in Nain.

Parks Canada
P. O. Box 471
Nain, NL
Canada AOP 1L0
Torngats.info@pc.gc.ca
Tel:709 922-1290
Toll Free: 1-888-922-1290

Also a reminder that anyone planning to cruise along the coast of the Park and land in the Park must register with the Parks Canada office. And further, permits from the Nunatsiavut Government (NG) are required for landing on Inuit owned land. Contact the NG before arriving to determine applicability to your itinerary and to obtain a permit. The address is below.

Department of Lands and Resources
Nunatsiavut Government
PO Box 70
Nain, NL
Canada A0P 1L0
Tel: 709-922-2942
Fax: 709-922-2931

Contributed by Steve Loutrel - January, '09
Information on handling bears.

Canadian web site - Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve, also Auyuittuk National Park in Baffin
An excellent DVD is available from Park Headquarters in Nain (address above). We viewed it and discussed handling polar bears with Angus Simpson, Resource Conservation Supervisor at Park headquarters. We learned much more about Polar Bears than we had learned in our seven previous expeditions to this coast. It was good timing, since with the dramatic increase in polar bears in Northern Labrador, we had our first two close experiences with bears in the summer of 2008. We were able to recognize the bears' behavior and scare them away using tactics given in the DVD. I would suggest that every member of the crew view this DVD. Multiple viewings are helpful.
Tactics for scaring bears away. (This is covered in the DVD) If a bear seems to be interested in you, you should scare him away when he is as far away as possible - don't wait for him to get close. The more comfortable he gets with you and the more time he is in contact, the more chance he has to become predatory. If he becomes predatory, he will attack with the intention of having you for dinner. The advice from the park information is that if you are attacked "fight back". Without a firearm, this is a daunting situation! Start by throwing large stones. As climbers, we carried our ice axes - even if we didn't need them for the climb. I believe a group of people, all armed with ice axes against one bear does have a chance - do not consider it hopeless and give up! There is a (reasonable ?) chance that a predatory bear, feeling the results of well aimed blows with an ice axe may decide it is not worth it and depart. Clearly, the goal is to avoid encounters and to never let the situation get to this point!
Equipment you should have ahead of time.
Pen-launched bear bangers
Pen-launched screamers - launch a projectile which emits a loud screaming whistle.
Flare gun?? I have not seen it recommended but it may be helpful and you have it on board anyway.
Loud horn.
Bear repellent - pepper spray. This must be declared at customs. They should let you through though there have been problems with them not allowing the spray through. It is important to note that you are going to a wilderness area and that the pepper spray is for repelling bears. The container must say that it is a bear repellent. Pepper spray for protection against people is illegal. We are told by the park personnel that it is not clear whether pepper spray is effective against polar bears. There are documented cases where spray was deployed effectively, BUT IT MUST BE STRESSED THAT BEAR SPRAY IS A VERY LAST RESORT AFTER ALL ELSE HAS FAILED. BEAR SPRAY IN AN OF ITSELF SHOULD NOT BE CONSIDERED ADEQUATE PROTECTION AGAINST POLAR BEARS.
Consider carrying a legal weapon - heavy walking stick, ice axe, axe, etc. Realize that it may not be effective.

Bear Behavior

Inflatables - for going ashore.
Bears seem to find inflatables interesting - perhaps they remind them of seals. Several yachts have had inflatables which were tied astern destroyed by polar bears.
speeds of approximately 5 knots for significant distances. This means they can easily overtake a rowed inflatable. You would be very vulnerable while rowing in an inflatable.
I have heard of observations of bears swimming at When we leave the inflatable on the beach for any time, we deflate it, roll it up, and if we are going to be gone long, bury it under a pile of rocks. A second method of getting back to the boat is a good idea. Perhaps a dry suit? Check carefully for bears before setting out for the boat in a dry suit!!

Bringing a firearm into Canada -- You can go on the Canadian Firearms Regulations site and study the requirements and regulations. Keep in mind that laws and regulations are enforced as best understood by those charged with that responsibility. Interpretation can vary despite the best of intentions to follow the letter of the law or regulation. In dealing with authorities and firearms one does not always get the same answer, but as best I understand it:

For Canadian Residents - a Possession / Acquisition Firearms License card is required. This is also true for non-residents - e.g. US Citizens coming into Canada with a firearm for more than a month.A US resident can obtain such a license if he has no criminal record.
You must take the Canadian Firearms Safety course and pass the final exam. There seem to be no exceptions to this. The course is given in various places in Canada.
All firearms which you bring into Canada for more than a month must be registered.
If you are staying for less than a month, you may be able to get a 1 month permit and register the firearm at the border. I do not know what other requirements there may be and you should contact the Canadian firearms and border authorities before you arrive at the border.
Carrying a firearm on board. I believe this is legal if you declare it at the border and they allow you to bring it into the country. It is very important to declare it.
Carrying a firearm ashore - outside the park.
If you are in native lands, you must have a permit to be in the native lands (See Nunatsiavut Government contact information above)
You must have a Polar Bear/Black Bear Protection Permit. For this you must apply to the Government of Newfoundland & Labrador Department of Natural Resources.

What firearm to carry if you decide to carry one and can deal with the permits, etc? -- The authorities recommend a pump action shot gun - with no choke. It can be handled quickly for close-in shooting - which is likely to be the case. if you only have one shotgun, it is recommended that you load the magazine with slugs, keep the chamber empty and learn how to top load the gun with deterrents such as bangers, screamers, plastic slugs and beanbags. Do not mix the ammunition in the magazine. If you have to shoot a charging bear you want every shot to count. Ideally you could have 2 shotguns. 1 with slugs and 1 with deterrents. Buckshot can be problematic, and is not recommended. If you prefer a rifle, it should be a big-game caliber.

375 H&H Magnum would be my preference.
338 Winchester Magnum is not a bad choice.
Some people use a 30-06 though it is pretty light for stopping an angry polar bear at short range.
The Inuit frequently carry a 243 Winchester but this is very light unless you are an expert Inuit hunter. The shot must be extremely well placed to do anything other than make the bear very mad.
It is important to use hunting ammunition with very controlled expansion so that it will give deep penetration. You want a "big game" cartridge.
The big game calibers generally only carry 3 rounds in the magazine. You should keep the chamber clear unless you are about to shoot so you will only have 3 shots before you reload. If you fire a warning shot you will only have 2 left.
Sights should be useable for short range shooting.

You should be very experienced with the firearm. If you do need to use it, there won't be much time to figure it out! If you do have a firearm with you (outside the National Park), you should use it only as the last resort. The bear protection permit requires you to carry other non-lethal methods for scaring bears away. You must do everything you can to avoid confrontations with polar bears. This includes studying and understanding bear behavior as much as possible. Again, If you are forced to kill a polar bear, you should consider it a personal defeat - you did not do your job in avoiding a confrontation or scaring the bear away. You are the guest in this country. It will pay to find your place in harmony with the land and animals you encounter.

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